expansion tank

[Redwood]

I precharge expansion tanks to the working pressure of the system.

[hidden 1]

thanks but i do my own and have leads if i cant.
I will tap into main line after regulator- for the teeed single line thats not regulated- and cap that line( single high line- un regulated) off...

regulator is working great also to all lines-after it-
ill set it to 55 and tank 53.

[rogercollins]

yeah there's an air space inside whether up or down.

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[jnaas2]

The pressure regulator should keep the water pressure that enters the house around 60 psi, run the water for a minute and see what the pressure is while the water is running and then see what the pressure is when no water is being used. If it stays around 60 and then slowly starts to climb the pressure regulator will probably need to be replaced, the spikes you are seeing are probably being caused by water hammering in the water lines which can lead to damaged water lines and fixtures

[hidden 1]

aready got one on main line..id rather t off of it before water heater...but its not effecting much as long as its off on that line is it.its 80 at meter so im told

[HayZee518]

put a pressure regulator in your cold water line.

[hidden 1]

Hi
the teed line (-before main line in -that is regulated)-goes straight to washer spicket and reads around 80 psi with some jumps to 110-120 on both needles.

- it is electric water heater and is set at 110degrees and is 50 gallon. 55psi inline ,tank 45 .

[jnaas2]

At what pressure does your pump turn on and at what pressure does it shut off at. And If they put a tee in the water line out side before it enters the house and connects to the pressure tank that could cause water hammer in the line just from the water going out to the tee and then when the pump comes on it reverses direction back to the pressure tank. A quick closing valve like the kind on a washer will also cause water hammer and you will probably need to install an arrestor on the washing machine cold water line to help stop the water hammer

[hidden 1]

figured it out

hey..i found out the change in spike was a teed in- stand alone - seperate line off the main going to washer before main incoming entered home.
I set regulator on 55 and expansion tank on 45-is that a good set?

I now have to mini regulate that single incoming line -stright to washer cold..Can i use a inline pressure relief valve(brv- by watts) betwen outlet/connection and hose exiting to drain -right there? if so what psi setting?Also would a washer arrestor help cushon the line off/ons and expansionduring the wash cycle?

Any suggestions are appreciated

[jnaas2]

The pressure in the tank is suppose to be a few pounds less than the cut in pressure on the pump control. If you have a pressure control that turns the pump on at 40 pounds then the pressure in the tank should be set at 38 psi. Some manafactures want the expansion tank at least 18 inches away from the water heater

[hidden 1]

thanks but if line pressure is hitting 75 sometimes 80-spike should the tank be at just 40?...i thought it is to be closer in pressure.is set for 62 on regulator but goes up off/on

[HayZee518]

leave the tank pressure as it is. If down the line you need to increase the pressure use a tire pump and increase it.

[hidden 1]

thanks.
so it will work in any position then? and it is unstalled above the water heater also.

do i need to match the air pressure in the tank to my psi water pressure?it is about 65-70.. the tank 40...
any info is appreciated

[HayZee518]

The Watts DET-5 M1 Potable Water Expansion Tank. Watts Series DET Potable Water Expansion Tanks are designed to absorb thermal expansion and to maintain balanced pressure throughout the potable water supply system. Heated water expands, and, in a domestic hot water system, the system may be closed when the potable water system is isolated from the public water supply (one-way valve, pressure reducing valve, backflow preventer, check valve, etc.). Provisions must be made for this expansion. Watts Series DET expansion tanks absorb the increased volume of water created when the hot water storage tank is heated and keeps the system pressure below the relief setting of the T&P relief valve. It is a pre-pressurized steel tank with an expansion membrane that prevents contact of the water with the air in the tank. This prevents loss of air to the water and insures long and trouble-free life for the system. These tanks may be used with all types of Direct Fired Hot Water Heaters (gas, oil or electric) and hot water storage tank.

• DET-5 has 3 /4" male connection, tank volume 2.0 gallons
• Thermally fused epoxy liner
• Rugged flexible butyl diaphragm
• Field adjustable pre-charge
• In-line and free standing models
• Made in U.S.A.

[hidden 1]

if so ,can you answer my original question