how to remove B&S engine from 3250/3500 troybilt generator

[davefrommd]

Last year I bought a new 3250/3500 troybilt generator marked down with a locked briggs & stratton engine. Engine was probably ran with out oil, I'm not interested in rebuilding the engine. Can someone tell me how to remove the engine from the generator? I will be installing another 6.5hp engine. Thanks. Troybilt generator model#030378 serial# 1015492569

[HayZee518]

Remove the end cap off the generator. There should be a bolt running through the rotor shaft into the engine crankshaft. the end of the generator is tapered to fit the crankshaft. If there are through bolts fastening the stator to the engine block, remove them too. using a brass drift pin, rap the tapered gen shaft smartly with a hammer. the gen shaft should pop off the crankshaft.

[davefrommd]

Thank you. I appreciate your help greatly. Dave

[paul52446m]

how to remove B&S engine from 3250/3500 troybilt generator

Last year I bought a new 3250/3500 troybilt generator marked down with a locked briggs & stratton engine. Engine was probably ran with out oil, I'm not interested in rebuilding the engine. Can someone tell me how to remove the engine from the generator? I will be installing another 6.5hp engine. Thanks. Troybilt generator model#030378 serial# 1015492569

Most Gen. have a tapered shaft, and the engines shafts are tapered to fit to them. So you would have to buy a engine made to couple up to a gen. Paul

[davefrommd]

Thank you very much for your response. I used a gear puller to remove the engine from generator. The engine disconnected along with the rotor/stator. I had tried to tap it loose and it didn't work so I used the gear puller and gently seperated the engine and generator. So the rotor/stator are still on the engine shaft and the adapter plate is still bolted to the engine. I'll work on it later on today. I appreciate all the help. Thanks.

[HayZee518]

because the gen shaft and crankshaft is tapered where they join, a good rap with a 1/2-4/3 brass rod, deforms the taper ever so slightly so it pops off the shaft. the taper has a keyway in it too!

[davefrommd]

I still haven't been able to seperate the rotor/stator from the engine shaft. I did loosen the nut on the generator shaft end. Is that nut suspose to be tight when I tap it. I already know that the new engine has a 3/4" diameter keyed straight shaft and is not tapered. Thanks again

[mrcaptainbob]

flywheel removal...

There should be two threaded holes on that flywheel. Use a quality wheel puller to remove it. That's a device that has three holes in it. The two outer ones is where you slip bolts through and screw into the flywheel. The center hole is for a bolt with a nut on the underside. Hold the nut and turn the bolt against the flywheel end. It'll pop off. By the way....keep the nut on just enough to stay on the crank, but not against the flywheel. That will keep the flywheel from falling off and getting damaged. Or damaging you. If you meet a lot of resistance with that center bolt, just smartly rap it with a hammer. That should be enough for it to come off. I'm not a fan of shocking the end of a crankshaft with anything. I've seen too many damaged that way. They're pretty brittle and the ends tend to crack.
Additionally, do NOT use a two or three jaw puller! That will crack that flywheel for sure!

[davefrommd]

Ok, thanks, I'll give it a try..

[HayZee518]

once you get the generator off the old motor, you are going to have problems because of the tapered generator shaft. you said your engine has a straight shaft. "see where I'm going?"

[mrcaptainbob]

Generator info...

Any chance you can post a picture of what you have so far?

[davefrommd]

I already know the new engine I have is not going to work. I will put it on a gokart as I have a gokart that needs a motor. I'm certain that engine will work fine. The old generator engine is going to be scrapped and used for parts, carb, air filter, etc. I decided to cut off the 3/4" shaft just as is exits the engine case. I just got tired of it. I don't know if that makes it harder to seperate the engine shaft from the rotor/stator. So what I have now is the rotor/stator with around 2" of the engine shaft. For parts its called a rotor, is it a stator to, which one is correct. So thats about it.

[HayZee518]

the part in the center that spins is called the rotor or field coil. the part around it which stays stationary is called the stator. on the rotor are a set of diodes and coils. the rotor has "residual magnetism." Big words but in order to produce an ac voltage, a magnetic field is rotated within the stator. the diodes convert the alternating current into dc which is fed into the rotor coils. this produces a dc field. if you had a permanent magnet you could accomplish the same effect but as your current requirement went up there is no way to regulate the output. on the rotor is a set of slip rings that receives its current from a winding on the stator. the rotor punchings or iron is partially magnetized - this is called residual magnetism. you've no doubt heard the term, flashing the field, well if a generator doesn't produce an output, you use a 12 volt battery for an instant on the rotor slip rings to set up the magnetic field. while the unit is spinning the magnetic field builds up. the way the stator winding is connected determines the output current and voltage produced.

[davefrommd]

Thanks for the good information. I like to be familiar with the parts I am working on.

[lee499]

i just removed a generator a few days ago. The center bolt should be a 5/16-24 about 12 inches long, this is a harden bolt a #8, dont use a softer bolt it will bend. If the shaft has been tapped on the end most of the time it is a 7/16-24 or 12mm. take the 5/16 and cut about 2 inches off at the head side, notch it so you can screw it back into the engine shaft until it bottoms out. Then take the 7/16 and screw it in until it pushes against the other bolt, after a few tight turns the rotor should pop off. I would take a PBS oil and spray on the shaft where it goes into the generator after a few days setting turn the generator up and fill the hole with more PBS oil let it set. The PBS oil will desolve any rust and penatrate the shaft. the shaft shoud come apart easy.Remove all the outside generator housing down to the rotor so it will have space to fall.it would be a good ideal to have some rags under the rotor so it wont be damaged. if the rotor is not tapped you will have to messure hole size and tap.