wood stove inlet vents

[dkpbxman]

I have a Timberline wood stove that has two vents in the front doors to control the air-flow allowed in to the fire-box.

The nut, that should be secured to the inside of the door to allow the knob to be screwed in and out, has come loose and when the knob is turned-the nut spins also.

I need to re-secure the nut to the door but various adhesives, JB Weld and a special mortar that says it will work on stoves/fireplaces have all cracked after 2 or 3 fires and the only way to close the vent is to open the door while the fire is burning and hold the nut still with one hand while spinning the knob with the other.

Does anybody know a product that will work?

Thanks

[pushkins]

If the JB weld didn't work I'm not sure anything else will either. I've used JB on engine blocks with very good success but a fire box gets much hotter.
If you know someone with a portable spot welder that would be my best suggestion. I saw one at Harbor Freight just yesterday for $120

[HayZee518]

tighten the nut to whatever tension you need it to be. take a prick punch and a ball peen hammer and put the point on the nut and bolt thread that comes out the thread and rap it so you create an indent in the nut and bolt. do this in one more place. the bolt will spin but the nut will not come off.

[pushkins]

Does the nut work to just hold the fitting in place on the bolt/thread or does the nut "need" to be fixed tight to the door ?
I assumed that it "needed" to be fixed to the door, if not then Hayzee's idea is a good one or you could add a second nut to the thread and tighten the two nuts against each other to lock them in place.

[HayZee518]

Dan, that wire feed welder works good with an external source of shielding gas - not so good with the flux core. flux gets wet and it sputters like crazy. ANYWAY - stove nuts. another way to fasten the nuts if this is the idea would be to use a larger face nut, drill two clearance holes in the nut, drill and tap two holes for a 10-32 round head screw in the stove door. use high temp permatex on the 10-32 screws, then tighten the larger bolt into the nut and pin it with a cotter pin through the nut and bolt.

[dkpbxman]

The nut needs to remain stationary while attached to the inside of the door so as you turn the outside knob, it screws towards or away from the door, thereby adjusting the amount of air allowed into the fire.

Screwed all the way in, it will form a seal with the door, allow no air in and choke the fire off.

(The shaft needs to spin freely while the nut stays still.)

Spot-welding sounds like a good idea.

Thanks, guys

[dkpbxman]

outcome

Just as a follow-up:

A few spot welds by a local guy fixed the problem.

The only hiccup was because, while the five walls of the actual fire-box are steel, the two doors are thick cast iron.

"Normal" welding won't do it. A special filler rod made of nickel was needed.