Kenmore 10 year old fridge

[Speedbump]

I think I already know what the problem is with my fridge. The compressor. This unit was a gift two months ago. I love it... well did love it until it thawed out yesterday. The compressor was very hot and wouldn't start. I see it already has a hard start cap and relay installed so that's already a bad sign. I unplugged it for several hours, let the compressor cool down, plugged it in and it started smoothly. It ran all night, cooled down inside, is making ice etc. I read the temp on the compressor with a little infra red temp sensor and got 150°F. I know pump motors run extremely hot and that's all right for them, but is 150° too hot for the compressor?

[Dan O.]

Model number?

10 year old Kenmore fridge

I'm afraid that is not enough information to identify the appliance in question. What is needed is its exact model number. If you post it we can at least look it up to see what appliance design you're dealing with.

Forum Notice LINK > Please include Make and Model # in post

The compressor was very hot and wouldn't start. I see it already has a hard start cap and relay installed so that's already a bad sign.

That type of universal relay/overload can NOT be used on more modern, energy efficient compressors. Use of such a device on newer compressors will usually cause overheating and eventually, irreparable damage to the compressor.

is 150° too hot for the compressor?

Definitely! Under normal conditions it should be warm to the touch only while operating. Do not allow the compressor to run in such a condition if you want any hope of it surviving.

JMO

Dan O.
www.Appliance411.com
The Appliance Information Site
=D~~~~~~

[Speedbump]

I'll get the info you need, but the thing has been operating flawlessly for three days now. If I were to shut it down, what could I do to make it better, since a compressor can't be repaired and the problem is not with the start up. It starts good.

[Dan O.]

the thing has been operating flawlessly for three days now.

You checked the compressor temperature previous to the failure to know that?

The problem caused by using a 'universal' relay/overload on an energy efficient compressor wouldn't be immediate. The compressor would start and run, just run hot... until it finally crapped out from being too hot. It might operate again once it had a chance to cool down but the problem would return... eventually.

the problem is not with the start up

The relay is responsible for more than just starting the compressor. On energy efficient compressors it also plays a part during run as well, along with a run capacitor.

since a compressor can't be repaired

It might not need to be repaired... yet. But running it while it is overheating will damage it for sure eventually. Better stop now before irreversible damage is done and you do need to face an expensive repair or replace the refrigerator?

JMO

Dan O.
www.Appliance411.com
The Appliance Information Site
=D~~~~~~

[Speedbump]

Ok Dan O.

Here's the tag that I found finally. It's inside the fridge compartment.
I measured the temp of the compressor and it's at 130°F.

[Dan O.]

Use the right parts!

Here's the tag that I found finally. It's inside the fridge compartment.

Isn't that where the model number tag guide found at the link previously supplied said it would be found?

[Kenmore fridge model 106.52532101]

That refrigerator uses an energy efficient compressor model. A universal relay/overload should NOT be used on it or damage to the compressor will result.

I suggest you install the proper relay and overload protector and also the run capacitor (if now missing) and see how it performs.

LINK > Kenmore 106.52532101 *factory suggested* Relay/Overload Kit

LINK > Kenmore 106.52532101 Compressor Run Capacitor


As long as damage has not yet been done to the compressor (and you disconnect it from power now so no damage is done), I think you'll find that the incorrect replacement parts being installed is probably the only problem.

JMO

Dan O.
www.Appliance411.com
The Appliance Information Site
=D~~~~~~

[Speedbump]

Thanks,

The relay is still in the back. Do you have the values for the run and start cap and a schematic?

I'm not sure where the overload is, but it's there somewhere since it worked once already.

[Dan O.]

The relay is still in the back

What relay?

Do you have the values for the run and start cap and a schematic?

There is no start capacitor used. I do not know the value of the run capacitor that is used in conjunction with the relay, no. When needed we order my manufacturer's part number. That way you don't end up installing the wrong part.

I have no schematics either. There should be a wiring diagram in the fridge somewhere (unless someone has removed it). It may be behind the kickplate or inside the control console. There are instructions that come with the replacement relay/overload asm.

Dan O.
www.Appliance411.com
The Appliance Information Site
=D~~~~~~

[Speedbump]

Correct me if I'm wrong, but what good would a run capacitor be when used with a relay and no start cap. The run cap is in line through the cycle, but with the relay it would be removed immediately after starting the motor.

I know fridges aren't pumps, but we have some pump motors that run with start caps and relays, start caps, run caps and relays, then some with start caps period. No relay.

[HayZee518]

fractional horsepower motors have a run capacitor and a start capacitor. those with a start capacitor have an internal start switch that opens when the motor is up to speed. start capacitors with an inline relay, the relay is current sensitive and inline with the cap so when max start current is reached the relay opens thereby disconnecting the cap. refrigeration compressors cannot have an internal start switch, that's why they use an external start relay. the run capacitor is in parallel with the run winding and needs not be disconnected when the motor reaches full rpm.

[Dan O.]

what good would a run capacitor be when used with a relay

On energy efficient refrigerator compressors both start and run windings remain in use during run. That way undersized windings can be used, reducing energy consumption. The run capacitor shifts the phase of the current to the motor winding giving it more torque.

BTW. When using a universal relay the start winding is taken completely out of the circuit during run which puts too much strain on the smaller, more energy efficient run winding, hence the overheating... and eventual compressor damage.

Dan O.
www.Appliance411.com
The Appliance Information Site
=D~~~~~~

[Speedbump]

Here is what you said that confuses me:

There is no start capacitor used. I do not know the value of the run capacitor that is used in conjunction with the relay, no.

I looked for a schematic and there is none to be found. There is a two pole "relay" or something that is screwed down with a compressor mounting screw. I assume it's a relay of some sort. It's not hooked up though. I don't see a run or start cap anywhere nor a place to mount one.

The other thing I refuse to do is pay the prices asked on that site you linked to. They are a bit outrageous. If I had a schematic and the part values, I could put it back together like it was intended with parts from my shop.

[Dan O.]

C'est la vie

There is a two pole "relay" or something that is screwed down with a compressor mounting screw.

I have no idea what that is. The compressor relay mounts directly onto the compressor's electrical terminals.

The other thing I refuse to do is pay the prices asked on that site you linked to. They are a bit outrageous.

It's not the site that sets the parts prices it is the appliance manufacturer. If you check with Sears I believe you'll find they sell them for even more.

But just to put this into perspective; You are given (I assume for FREE) a refrigerator that you "love" and you're not willing to put a couple of bucks into it? You'd still be way ahead of the game.

If I had a schematic and the part values, I could put it back together like it was intended with parts from my shop.

I very much doubt you'd have such a relay, let alone even an overload protector.

I've done all I can for you, I'm outta here. Good luck!

Dan O.
www.Appliance411.com
The Appliance Information Site
=D~~~~~~