GE 'fridge ls no longer cool...

[mrcaptainbob]

The GE side-by-side lost temp a few days ago. Vacuumed the flannel blanket off of the grill on the back, also took the fuzz off of the coils under neath. Didn't help much. I then turned the freezer temp control to max and the 'fridge side did lower from 52* to around 48*. I got home this evening and my wife said it's formal now, the 'fridge is not working on either side.
GE info...:
GSS25JFMC WW Serial FD244841
We did have a power fail and possible spike about a week and a half ago. Could this have fried the board? Could it be a bummed compressor? Or maybe a temperature control item? What might I check for? And....how would I do it?

[Dan O.]

We did have a power fail and possible spike about a week and a half ago. Could this have fried the board?

Yes

Could it be a bummed compressor?

Yes

Or maybe a temperature control item?

On electronically controlled models there is no "temperature control" per se. It is done by the electronic control.

What might I check for?

Are the fans running? If they ARE but the fridge is not cooling, looking to see if the compressor is getting power and/or running would be a first step.

You can read about refrigerator cooling problems at the following link:

LINK > My frost free refrigerator is not cooling properly. What might be the problem?

JFYI

Dan O.

[mrcaptainbob]

Appliance info link...

Thanks for the quick response, Dan O. I'll be checking on it now.....

[mrcaptainbob]

GE fridge...

Okasy...the fans and the compressor do run. I expect it's the board then? A new one in order?

[mrcaptainbob]

GE refridgerator...

This is really strange. Just for kicks and giggles I plugged the unit in after about 3.5 hours being off and no products in it. Left it running all night except for a bottle purposely half filled with water. Well, imagine our surprise this morning to find the ice maker is running, the bottle is frozen and the 'fridge side is about 36 to 38 degrees....! So what gives with this? Do I trust it? Should she put products back in it? What caused it to appear to fail?

[Dan O.]

Not so fast

the fans and the compressor do run. I expect it's the board then?

All the control does is turns those functions on. If they're on, the control is doing it's job.

the bottle is frozen and the 'fridge side is about 36 to 38 degrees

Than you'll have to wait until it is malfunctioning again and then check each of the things suggested at the link previously supplied one at a time until you can narrow down the cause or at least determine its exact symptoms.

That has to be done *while the condition exists* not after disconnecting power for some period of time.

JMO

Dan O.

[Drywall DIY Guy]

Repowering can work here

I had a fairly new fridge that was not as cold as it should have been (in high 40s) some years back. After cleaning it and not having success, I unplugged it for a few minutes and powered it up again, and all was fine. It seems that sometimes a brief power outage can disrupt things - and we had a few at the time. Keep an eye on the fridge - your problem may be solved.

Not sure of the electronics in refrigerators, but I know that repowering works wonders for TVs, DVD players, and computers.

[mrcaptainbob]

GE 'fridge...

Well, the darn thing is playin' with me. My wife occasionally put stuff back in the fridge. And the temp krept back up to 52*. But the freezer side is still maintaining. I'll keep an eye on this for a few days. The fans and the compressor are working. Thanks so much for the help....

[mrcaptainbob]

GE 'fridge...

The status is thus: the freezer control is set at 6 0f 9 and the temp is 18*. The 'fridge side is set at 8 of 9 and the temp is at 45*. Should the door be used to extract a product, then opened again a minute or so later for more than three times in a short period, the temp there jumps to 52*. That's not to say the door is left open for an appreciably long time, just long enough to stick an arm in there. We are reluctant to place any milk in there as it seems to rapidly spoil. What temp should the 'fridge side be? There is no ice build up, no dust on the coils (anymore) and the door seals are in place and do seal well.

[Dan O.]

the freezer temp is 18*. The 'fridge side temp is at 45*

Those are too high. The freezer temperature should be between +5°F and -5°F. The fridge compartment temperature should be around 38°F.

Someone likely needs to look into why the appliance isn't cooling properly.

Should the door be used to extract a product... the temp there jumps to 52*

As soon as you open the door all the cold air 'falls' out and is replaced by the warmer room air. How long it takes that temperature change to register on the control I don't know. Opening the door multiple times shouldn't have any bearing on what occurs afterward... besides for the total amount of time the door has been open for.

JMO

Dan O.
www.Appliance411.com
The Appliance Information Site
=D~~~~~~

[mrcaptainbob]

GE 'fridge...

Should I just go ahead and invest in a new control board? The reason I'm pointed in that direction is that the unit started failing about a week after a power failure. This has happened before. And you, Dan O. steered me in the right direction to get a board. And I still sing your praises about that! I'm expecting that I may have to do that again....

[Dan O.]

I do not suggest you replace anything until you have a definite reason to think it is the problem, not just a guess. Until we know exactly what is going on (eg. fans running, compressor running, frost pattern on the evaporator, etc.) *at the time of failure* it would be premature for us to suggest what the possible cause is, let alone one of the most expensive parts of the appliance.

If you want to take the chance, that will be up to you to decide. Sorry.

JMO

Dan O.

[mrcaptainbob]

GE 'fridge...

Hi, Dan O. The fans are going, as is the compressor. I just now checked the freezer section, and upon opening the door I see the temp is around 32*, but there is a layer of frost on the back wall about 1/4" thick. I agree with you. Throwing parts (and money) is just not a good plan. Is the back panel where the freezer coils are? I see some panel screws. I can yank them out and check back there....

[mrcaptainbob]

GE 'fridge...

Yeow! Now THAT is a LOT of ice and frost!! Okay, so the coils are severely frosted up. The humidity around here is high, so I'm guessing that's what caused the frosting. I plan to shut the fridge down, leave the doors open and allow it all to melt and clear itself. Where do I go after that? (Gees!! Now THERE'S an opening!)
It's a few minutes later...I have a fan blowing in the freezer section and the first to leave was the frost. The frost was across most of the top section of the coils and there's hard ice on the lower section maybe the lower two or three inches.
After re-reading the instructions you posted, Dan O., I understand more clearly. Based on that it could be either the defrost timer, the temperature limiter or the heating coil itself. Is this correct? Also, how might I be able to check these out? I have a vom if that's any help....

[Dan O.]

I plan to shut the fridge down, leave the doors open and allow it all to melt and clear itself. Where do I go after that?

The problem is suppose to be checked *while the condition is present* not after you've altered it's condition like by defrosting it, unplugging it for any length of time, etc.

Based on that it could be either the defrost timer, the temperature limiter or the heating coil itself. Is this correct?

Yes, although a defrost thermostat on GE's electronically controlled models doesn't serve that exact purpose, its failure could cause a defrosting problem as well.

how might I be able to check these out?

At link to that information was provided at the end of the last link I provided. It was titled "HOW DOES A FROST FREE REFRIGERATOR'S DEFROST SYSTEN WORK?

That page goes into actual component testing. The first link deals with diagnosis.

JFYI

Dan O.

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