Tweet
Your problem is likely a blown fuse, a blown thermal cutout (TCO) or thermostat on the magnetron or the microwave oven cavity, or a bad connection on the power connector on the microwave's control circuit board.
I regularly repair microwave controllers by mail.
There should be a technical sheet / mini-manual hidden behind the microwave or oven controls or elsewhere in the chasses of the units.
Sometimes it/they are in a little black envelope, sometimes not. It may be on or inside the back on in the area of the hood.
There may be a separate one for the oven and for the microwave, I'm just not sure on those older ones.
The exploded views for this model don't explicitly show it as they normally do, but on the hood parts diagram it shows a little diagram called "wiring material" and that wiring is of the microwave's high voltage section.
So a little digging should uncover it/them and it/they will show you overall schematics and wiring diagram for both the oven and the microwave.
I can probably help you zero in on it if you can find the microwave's technical sheet, scan just the microwave overall schematic page at 200-300 DPI and post it here.
Or fax it in "super fine" or "detail" mode to me toll-free at 866-481-2802.
It also may be that your model has a triac which controls the microwave output power. If so, that's not an uncommon failure, but if resistors are burned beyond value identification, it's a crapshoot.
If the high voltage capacitor shorted, that will blow the fuse. And a new fuse will blow as soon as you hit the "Start" pad on the membrane keypad to begin cooking.
Age and heat can eventually cause light solder joints to crack, especially if they carry a lot of current, as would the main supply connections.
On some older models, something as simple - but insidious - as a loose, fatigued fuse holder can cause the fuse to overheat and melt internally.
Some techs simply squeeze them tight with pliers, but that's not a fix, just a band-aid.
The fuse holder must be replaced if you can easily turn the fuse with a finger and thumb while it's in the holder.
Hope you find and share the technical sheet. "Dead" is usually the easiest thing to fix.
I regularly repair microwave controllers by mail.
There should be a technical sheet / mini-manual hidden behind the microwave or oven controls or elsewhere in the chasses of the units.
Sometimes it/they are in a little black envelope, sometimes not. It may be on or inside the back on in the area of the hood.
There may be a separate one for the oven and for the microwave, I'm just not sure on those older ones.
The exploded views for this model don't explicitly show it as they normally do, but on the hood parts diagram it shows a little diagram called "wiring material" and that wiring is of the microwave's high voltage section.
So a little digging should uncover it/them and it/they will show you overall schematics and wiring diagram for both the oven and the microwave.
I can probably help you zero in on it if you can find the microwave's technical sheet, scan just the microwave overall schematic page at 200-300 DPI and post it here.
Or fax it in "super fine" or "detail" mode to me toll-free at 866-481-2802.
It also may be that your model has a triac which controls the microwave output power. If so, that's not an uncommon failure, but if resistors are burned beyond value identification, it's a crapshoot.
If the high voltage capacitor shorted, that will blow the fuse. And a new fuse will blow as soon as you hit the "Start" pad on the membrane keypad to begin cooking.
Age and heat can eventually cause light solder joints to crack, especially if they carry a lot of current, as would the main supply connections.
On some older models, something as simple - but insidious - as a loose, fatigued fuse holder can cause the fuse to overheat and melt internally.
Some techs simply squeeze them tight with pliers, but that's not a fix, just a band-aid.
The fuse holder must be replaced if you can easily turn the fuse with a finger and thumb while it's in the holder.
Hope you find and share the technical sheet. "Dead" is usually the easiest thing to fix.
Comment