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  • Whirlpool gas dryer not heating

    Whirlpool Estate. Model: TGDL640BW2. It was running for a few hours the other day. Thought we were out of propane. Nope. Tried it on all settings. Found the timer does move. Even though setting the timer in the middle of a setting calling for heat, the igniter(s) are not turning on. No flame/heat. What should be the sequence in checking where the problem is?

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    Last edited by Dan O.; 02-21-2012, 02:36 AM. Reason: Made more descriptive title

  • #2
    the igniter(s) are not turning on
    There is only one ignitor. If it is not glowing at all, checking it for continuity could be done to start with.

    LINK > Generic Gas Dryer Repair

    LINK > TGDL640BW2 Ignitor Kit


    After that, checking the unit's thermal fuse (see the following link) for continuity might be next.

    LINK > TGDL640BW2 Thermal Fuse


    After that, checking each thermostat plus the heat contact of the timer and also the motor switch might be needed to see where the stoppage in power to the gas burner unit is. Eliminating each possible cause one at a time will need to be done.

    JFYI


    Dan O.
    Appliance411.com
    The Appliance Information Site
    =D~~~~~~

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    Last edited by Dan O.; 02-21-2012, 03:35 AM.

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    • #3
      Whirlpool Gas dryer...

      Thanks for the quick help, Dan O. Following the directions, the ignitor and radiant sensor do show continuity. The burner assembly (assembly 3401771) has two ports, one with three pins and the other with two. The three pins (booster/holding coils?) show continuity between all three. The two pins (secondary coil?) shows zero. I really like the videos, by the way. Very helpful. Am I to assume at this point that it most likely is the secondary coil? And that means a new valve assembly?.....just looked at the parts on your site. I see the coils are available! So....replacing them as a set (Item 3479) would most likely get me back in business?
      Last edited by mrcaptainbob; 02-21-2012, 06:30 PM.

      Comment


      • #4
        More testing required?

        the ignitor and radiant sensor do show continuity
        How about the thermal fuse?

        The two pins (secondary coil?) shows zero. Am I to assume at this point that it most likely is the secondary coil?
        If that solenoid coil has no continuity it is definitely defective.

        I however do not know if that failure would totally prevent the ignitor from glowing. In fact I doubt it. There is likely another problem responsible for that which will need to be isolated.

        I see the coils are available
        Yes. They are available separately or together in a kit (which is actually cheaper!)

        LINK > 2 Terminal Solenoid Coil

        LINK > 3 Terminal Booster/Holding Coil

        LINK > Gas Valve Solenoid Coil Kit (2)

        JMO

        Dan O.
        Appliance411.com
        The Appliance Information Site

        =D~~~~~~

        .

        Comment


        • #5
          Thermal fuse....

          You are SO good, Dan O!! It was the thermal fuse!! Time constraints lead me to have to purchase locally. A cheap and easy fix. Thanks to you and your help.

          Comment


          • #6
            .

            What about the solenoid coil with no continuity?

            Dan O.
            Appliance411.com
            The Appliance Information Site

            =D~~~~~~

            .

            Comment


            • #7
              Check Venting!

              .
              BTW. Whenever a thermal fuse or protector has opened on a dryer an *extensive* review of the dryer venting should be done (see the following link). Such a device is a safety protector and when failed can be a sign of a heating problem which can be a very real fire hazard!!

              LINK > Dryer Venting Information


              JFYI

              Dan O.
              www.Appliance411.com
              The Appliance Information Site

              =D~~~~~~

              .

              Comment


              • #8
                Dryer venting....

                Hi, Dan O. I rechecked the coils after removal and found both had continuity. Went to the back and checked that thermal. Interesting link about the clogging being one of the causes for failure of that sensor. Well, as it turns out.....I did install the smooth metal 4" vent about 30" long max. The outside is covered by the louver vent as shown in the link to be Type A. I did check it out and found quite a bit of lint FIRMLY packed in the top vane and somewhat packed in the next to it. Effectively clogged it about 50%. This is now on a list to be checked at intervals. Not a difficult job. Thanks so much for the help and heads up. All great information, Dan O.

                Comment


                • #9
                  Clean dryer venting

                  clogged about 50%. This is now on a list to be checked at intervals
                  Twice a year would likely be fine assuming a proper vent installation. In the Fall for sure, when indoor drying usually increases.


                  Dan O.
                  Appliance411.com
                  The Appliance Information Site

                  =D~~~~~~

                  .

                  Comment

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