GE Dryer GFDN110EL0WW Shuts off

[fastvan67]

I have a GE model GFDN110EL0WW dryer. Its been working great for over a year. It was purchased new.
Recently when on the high temp setting, the dryer would work just fine for about 5 min then it would shut off and become unresponsive for approximately 15 min. (cool down time?) The the power light will come back on with the remaining time displayed. I press start and the same sequence happens again.
I felt the close inside the dryer. It feels like the heating element is working fine. I then pulled the exhaust off and ran the dryer without it. No change. Is there anything else I should check?

Thank You

[Dan O.]

GE model GFDN110EL0WW dryer would work just fine for about 5 min then it would shut off and become unresponsive for approximately 15 min.

Totally unresponsive or just stops running?


Dan O.
Appliance411.com
The Appliance Information Site
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[fastvan67]

Totally unresponsive or just stops running?

it stops spinning and will not respond.

[Dan O.]

it stops spinning and will not respond.

That might be caused by a problem with the door switch, the door not closing properly maybe going ajar when it gets hot or possibly a problem in the electronic control itself.

JMO

Dan O.
www.Appliance411.com
The Appliance Information Site
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[fastvan67]

Well, let me explain a little more. When I said it shuts off, what I ment was the machine actually turns itself off. No display on the digital readout. I tried moving the plug to another 220v outlet from the next room over. Still no response. I checked voltage at the power outlet. Has 220v.
If I run the machine on medium temp, it takes a little longer to dry the close, but it doesnt shut down. I'm thinking the problem what ever it is has something to do with the High temp setting.

[Dan O.]

I'm thinking the problem has something to do with the High temp setting.

There is usually nothing in a dryer that would shut down the control in an overheat condition but check the unit's wiring diagram (which I don't have access to). To determine whether the control itself is responsible, someone might be able to find the power supply wires to it and check to make sure power was getting to the control when the malfunction was occurring. If power WAS at the control but the control was NOT operating, the control itself would be suspect.

If there was NO power to the control when the problem occurred, something elsewhere is the dryer would be stopping it and consulting the unit's wiring diagram to see what possibilities there might be would be necessary.

JMO


Dan O.
Appliance411.com
The Appliance Information Site
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[HayZee518]

Dryer circuit

A one line schematic [ladder diagram] would be most helpful in determining what could cause your problem. All the common L2 leads would be tied to the L2 line. The L1 line goes to all the inline switches and overloads and then on to the control board [if electronic] or directly to a motor, timer, or relay.

[Nestor]

Fastvan:

Every electric dryer I know of will have two thermostats; a higher temperature thermostat that's used on the Regular and Permanent Press cycles, and a lower temperature thermostat that's used on the Delicates cycle.

Also, different dryers will respond differently when they overheat. On some dryers there's a thermostat that simply shuts down the dryer until it cools down. Once the dryer cools down, the thermostat resets itself and the dryer will work normally. On others, there will be a fuse that burns out and that will have to be replaced before the dryer heating element will work again.

If your dryer knocks itself out on the regular or permanent press cycle, but not on the delicates cycle, I'd replace the high temperature thermostat, but I'd check with Dan if that makes sense before you spend any money.

Dan O.: Are you the Dan O'Neill that used to operate a Major Appliance DIY Q&A forum on your web site and that you and Jeff W. from Ontario used to answer appliance repair questions on? I don't know if you'll remember me, but about 20 years ago I figured I'd help you guys out by helping answer appliance repair questions on your web site and was thoroughly humiliated. You and Jeff blew my doors off cuz you guys were appliance repair techs and were knowledgeable about every different make of appliance. I was just a landlord with more than my fair share of experience repairing GE stoves, Frigidaire fridges, and Maytag washers and dryers. I mumbled something in a few posts and then slinked out of there with my tail between my legs. Good to see you again.

[Dan O.]

Are you the Dan O'Neill that used to operate a Major Appliance DIY Q&A forum on your web site

Yes and still do. Your help was always welcome. I hope you've been well.


Dan O.
Appliance411.com
The Appliance Information Site
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[fastvan67]

Great Info Nestor! Ill look into that. Makes a lot of sense to me.

Now to find one...

[Nestor]

Dan:

I didn't help. I just took up room there. You and Jeff were answering all the questions. I was just hanging around hoping I could offer up an answer based on personal experience. For me, it was a "learning experience". I learned that I didn't know everything. It came as quite a shock.

Fastvan:
I only pointed out that your dryer will have both a high temp thermostat and a low temp thermostat because you said the dryer behaved differently when you set it on the Medium setting. If your high temp thermostat isn't working, it MIGHT be leaving the heat on until the high limit thermostat shuts power off to the heating element, but I don't see why that would cause the lights on your dryer's console to shut off.

However, you say that you have a digital display. With the computers in everything nowadays, it's very possible that the printed circuit boards and integrated circuits on it will shut down your dryer if it experiences an overheat condition. But, under those circumstances, you'd expect the dryer to display an error code saying that it overheated.

In this situation, you might be better off finding out who the GE factory authorized service depot in your area is, and upon consulting with the Big Kahuna there, buying the high temperature thermostat from THEM instead of your local appliance parts store. That's because they'll know much more about how your dryer works and will be able to tell you if it's likely that the problem might be due to the high temp thermostat.

My experience has been that when you buy your parts from a factory authorized service depot, they'll toss in free tech support cuz it costs them nothing and they know they make a fat profit off the parts they sell. So, you pay more for the part, but you get an expert diagnosis of the problem and advice on what you need to do and how to do it tossed in free (if they're not too busy to spend time on the phone with you). So, in this case, where no one knows for sure what the problem is, the extra you pay by buying the part from the factory authorized service depot buys the techical knowledge and practical experience to determine exactly what part needs to be replaced, and how to replace that part.

[fastvan67]

Nestor, Dont sell yourself short! What you said made perfectly good sense.

I had actually talked with a tech a yesterday morning. He mentioned that it sounds to him like a high temp thermostat.

Also, I found out that this dryer DOES have a way of displaying a trouble code. I just havent figured out how to access it because you have to press a series of buttons in some kind of order to make it go into Diagnostic mode.

[Nestor]

Fastvan:

Fine, but I wouldn't want anyone presuming I had DIAGNOSED that the problem was a bad high temperature thermostat.

I just happen to know that dryers use two thermostats and you mentioned that the dryer didn't go into a self induced coma when using the other thermostat. So, call this one a SWAG (scientific wild a$$ed guess).

But, I still think this is a good opportunity for you to get to know the local experts at the local GE factory authorized repair depot. They'll diagnose the problem for you and tell you what to do and how to do it. The only catch is that you have to buy the parts from them, and they make a good profit on it.

It's like dealing with a Pashtuni warlord; you have to bribe him to get him on your side.

But, that's just one option. You can also simply try replacing the high temp thermostat. It''s not likely to cost more than $20. If it doesn't solve the problem, you can always go and talk to the nice man at the factory authorized service depot.

[fastvan67]

Ok.. Thank You Nestor!
I talked to an appliance tech. (Factory certified)
He said a few of the GE models similar to mine carry the same thermostats. The high temp thermostat is sometimes problematic. He suggested replacing it.
He also asked something else which I thought was curious.. "Do you use fabric softener?"
As a matter of fact, I do.. He said open the machine. Fabric softener will have a tendency to keep the lint in the exhaust fairly moist for a short time causing it to stick to the duct work. He also suggested use half the amount of softener and avoid lint from sticking and causing clogs.
First thing I did was replace the thermostat. Put the system on High and turned it on. (with a load on of course) Dryer worked perfectly! I opened the machine and found a good bit of lint as well. Some of it deeper in there was somewhat moist from the fabric softener. So gave the thing a full cleaning..
Thats the end of my dry story..

[Dan O.]

Working

First thing I did was replace the thermostat. Dryer worked perfectly!

Glad to hear it. Thanks for the follow up.


Dan O.
Appliance411.com
The Appliance Information Site
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