Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Dryer Wiring

Collapse

Forum Top GA Ad Widget

Collapse
X
Collapse
 
  • Page of 1
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts
Previous template Next
  • #1

    Dryer Wiring

    HI all!

    My dryer has been on my front porch for three years now.
    I have a utility room where my washer is. Why is the dryer on the porch? Good question.
    My husband didn't run the right outlet in the utility room for an electric dryer.
    I got tired of it and my husbands out of town this weekend, so I decided to do what he seems unable to. I drilled a hole and ran the wire that is ON the dryer through to hole.
    The one thing I did wrong was not noticing HOW the wires were connected to the Outlet.
    So HELP!
    the dryer is a kenmore model 110.60622990. It has a three prong plug. The outlet is a GE 30A 125/250V.
    this is looking at the front
    ../ \..
    .. | ..
    OK, the back has the three screws that hold the wire.
    I have the white(hot)wire on the left and the Black(grd)on the right.
    The Copper wire in the bottom.

    Is this right? Is there a site that shows this?
    I'd love to have this hooked up and running before my husband gets home.

    Thanks!











    Tags: None
  • #2
    Do I detect a little angst here?
    No, your wiring is wrong.
    This is a 220/110 volt 30 amp circuit.
    If you only have 3 wires (there should be 4) the white AND black are hot. These are connected to the left and right plug terminals.The bare goes to the middle and becomes the neutral.
    Just a thought, but if your are unsure about wiring a circuit like this, maybe call an electrician?

    Did you ever see OHM'S mother in LAW?...... SHOCKING!
    <i>Did you ever see OHM\'S mother in LAW?</i>...... <font color=\"red\">SHOCKING!</font id=\"red\">

    Comment

    • #3
      First off you ca go to Sears.com and look at schematics and parts list if it will make you feel better. It is is pretty simple, and even if you are wrong you won't seriously break anything.
      you have two 120V wires and a common. One of the wires splits off and runs the normal 120v stuff timer, motor etc. They meet up again at the heating element where the 240 comes in. So in theory it doesn't really matter which one you plug in. as you look at the plug the top two are the 120V legs, and even if you switch them it won't fry anything. so make sure your connections are tight, and give it a go. Next time take notes and or mark the wires, or the cabinet.
      Regards, Paul

      Comment

      • #4
        [quote]Originally posted by BonesandFeathers

        First off you ca go to Sears.com and look at schematics and parts list if it will make you feel better. It is is pretty simple, and even if you are wrong you won't seriously break anything.
        you have two 120V wires and a common. One of the wires splits off and runs the normal 120v stuff timer, motor etc. They meet up again at the heating element where the 240 comes in. So in theory it doesn't really matter which one you plug in. as you look at the plug the top two are the 120V legs, and even if you switch them it won't fry anything. so make sure your connections are tight, and give it a go. Next time take notes and or mark the wires, or the cabinet.
        Regards, Paul
        [/quote

        It'll make a BIG difference if the ground is on the right, as she said it was.
        .......SIZZLE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

        Did you ever see OHM'S mother in LAW?...... SHOCKING!
        <i>Did you ever see OHM\'S mother in LAW?</i>...... <font color=\"red\">SHOCKING!</font id=\"red\">

        Comment

        • #5
          Thanks Guys,
          I had the wires right, and your right it didn't matter where the white or black went as long as the ground, bare wire went where is was suppose to go.
          I ususally always mark the wires before I do something like this, or even go as far as take a digital photo of it before I disassemly anything. I was have a rare Blonde moment, LOL.
          Well, it finally in the house and running.

          Thanks Again!!

          Comment

          • #6
            Congradulations on your ambition, but I hate to rain on your parade, just because I don't want to see you get hurt. If this is a 3 prong receptacle and you have a 3 prong plug from your dryer, then no wire should be of bare copper. The neutral wire (middle conductor) serves as a ground in a 3 wire hookup, but should be insulated same as both the hot wires on the outside prongs. You also need to install a ground strap connecting the neutral conductor to the dryer frame so you don't get zapped. Here is a link that has pictures and will provide you with the details of how to correctly connect your dryer. http://www.homewiringandmore.com/swi...yer/dryer.html

            You need to have 10/3 wire for a 30 amp circuit, all insulated conductors with no ground wire for a 3 prong connection. Please, for your own safety, adhere to these instructions, your life could depend on it.

            quote:Originally posted by katbo39

            Thanks Guys,
            I had the wires right, and your right it didn't matter where the white or black went as long as the ground, bare wire went where is was suppose to go.
            I ususally always mark the wires before I do something like this, or even go as far as take a digital photo of it before I disassemly anything. I was have a rare Blonde moment, LOL.
            Well, it finally in the house and running.

            Thanks Again!!

            Comment

            • #7
              Well that might be true for the wire that actually hooks to the dryer, but this is the "main" power through the wall plug and it has been hooked up this way for 3 years and no shocks so far.
              Thanks for the link, I will go there in the future.

              Comment

              • #8
                You're playing with fire, the bare wire is serving as your neutral wire and actually carries 120 volts back to the main panel when used, this is dangerous and against code. If someone gets hurt someday down the road, wheather it's you or the next owner at least you can't say you didn't know about it. Take care

                Comment

                • #9
                  quote:Originally posted by katbo39

                  Well that might be true for the wire that actually hooks to the dryer, but this is the "main" power through the wall plug and it has been hooked up this way for 3 years and no shocks so far.
                  Thanks for the link, I will go there in the future.
                  kactuskid is correct.
                  However most pre 1975ish installations used 10-2 with a bare ground as the neutral. And if that weren't bad enough, a majority of those installations used aluminun wiring.

                  But the fact is that it's common in a lot of houses and other structures.
                  More the reason to make sure that the wiring and breakers/ fuses are in good condition.

                  Did you ever see OHM'S mother in LAW?...... SHOCKING!
                  <i>Did you ever see OHM\'S mother in LAW?</i>...... <font color=\"red\">SHOCKING!</font id=\"red\">

                  Comment

                  • #10
                    On all of the dryers I serviced that I can recall . If the thing was 220 and it was a 4 wire the fourth wire was green and was more of a cabinet ground.
                    If the plug is a basic three prong that looks like peace sign, you can use an OHM meter to read accross two legs and find your L1 and L2 and common. ALso you could use the continuity to find where what wire went in the cord.
                    Probably why the twist lock became so popular (that and not soming out of the wall easily)
                    Regards Paul



                    [quote]quote:Originally posted by irregularjoe

                    Originally posted by BonesandFeathers

                    First off you ca go to Sears.com and look at schematics and parts list if it will make you feel better. It is is pretty simple, and even if you are wrong you won't seriously break anything.
                    you have two 120V wires and a common. One of the wires splits off and runs the normal 120v stuff timer, motor etc. They meet up again at the heating element where the 240 comes in. So in theory it doesn't really matter which one you plug in. as you look at the plug the top two are the 120V legs, and even if you switch them it won't fry anything. so make sure your connections are tight, and give it a go. Next time take notes and or mark the wires, or the cabinet.
                    Regards, Paul
                    [/quote

                    It'll make a BIG difference if the ground is on the right, as she said it was.
                    .......SIZZLE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

                    Did you ever see OHM'S mother in LAW?...... SHOCKING!

                    Comment

                    Previous template Next
                    Working...
                    X
                    =