Amp draw

[Speedbump]

I just purchased a Stackable Kenmore Elite. That's all I can find on it to identify the unit. It also has the heavy duty blah blah of coarse. All I need to know is the approximate amp draw of the washer and drier running together so I can get the proper wire size and breaker.

[HayZee518]

combo

the dryer operates on 240 volt, the washer will also operate on 240. #10 three with ground, 30 amp two pole. use a four wire pigtail and a four wire dryer receptacle.
isolate the equipment ground, that is remove it off the neutral terminal. the ground will go to the chassis.

[Speedbump]

The unit came with a three wire pigtail. I assume that is all I really need since there is nothing I know of that is operating on 115 volts. That must be why it didn't have a neutral.

The breaker size and wire size is what I needed. Thanks, I'll get er done now.

[Dan O.]

Dryer has separate power cord from washer

The unit came with a three wire pigtail.

On a 'laundry center' (stacked washer/dryer) the washer portion has a separate power cord. It should be on a dedicated 120 volt circuit and connected to a 15 amp fuse/breaker, time delay preferred.

The dryer will have its own cord or be directly connected to the house wiring. The dryer will be 240 volts if electric, 120 volts if gas. If electric it should be connected to 2-30 amp fuses/breakers. If gas it should be on its own decided 15 amp circuit.

there is nothing I know of that is operating on 115 volts.

The only thing that wouldn't operate on 120 volts is the dryer's heating element. Everything else on a washer and dryer is 120 volts.

Kenmore Elite. That's all I can find on it to identify the unit.

If you get the appliance's model number you may be able to get the installation instructions for it. You can find tips for locating the model and serial number identification tag on your appliances at the following link:

LINK > Model Number Tag Location Guide

JFYI

Dan O.
Appliance411.com
The Appliance Information Site
=D~~~~~~

[HayZee518]

dryer & pigtail

the washer motor operates off 120 volts which takes one side of the 240 input and the neutral. If you look on the terminal strip you'll see a red, a black and a white plus a green wire/screw and possibly a jumper between the center terminal and the chassis ground.
this "jumper" must be removed and a four wire pigtail installed in place of the three wire pigtail.
the following excerpt came off a dryer site.

Installing a 4-prong electric dryer cord when replacing a 3-prong electric dryer cord is easy when you follow these directions. Place the cord through the electrical connection hole and connect the green wire to the machine case using the green screw that you removed earlier.

Next, connect the white wire, along with the white wire from the machine, to the center post suing one of the three screws you removed. This is the neutral connection.

Next connect the black wire, one of the "hot" connections, to the left side post using another of the screws. This is one-half of the 240-volt connection.

Finally, connect the red wire, another of the "hot" connections, to the right side post using the last of the screws. This is the other half of the 240-volt connection. Snuggly tighten the screws so that the wire connections are held into place, but don't overdo it.

This is to correct the wiring of appliances to the new code which came out in the year 2000.

[Speedbump]

So what your telling me is that this unit I bought is over 13 years old. It sure doesn't look that old, but who knows?

Why couldn't I use the three wire pigtail (the center wire is labeled neutral) and simply run a bare of green wire from the grounding lug on the unit to ground in the panel? I have to get into the panel to install new wires to a female receptacle and could just add the green wire. Right?

[HayZee518]

dryer ground

I suppose you can. But I figured, unless your present feeder consists of a two wire 10 plus ground or an 8/2 with ground, a normal feeder for a receptacle is a three wire 10 plus a ground wire.
the neutral is identified, being white. the bare ground can't be a neutral. Its ONLY use is an equipment ground.
At the panel, the white and bare go to the same neutral bar or if its a sub panel, the bare ground would go to the aux ground bar, the neutral lug(s) are isolated above ground.

[Speedbump]

Here is a picture of my pigtail. Come to find out, nobody around here has the female receptacle to go with it. The center wire is labeled Neutral and they have stamped on the back, put ground here pointing to a lug. I'll probably have to go with a different style now. The one on the right side of the picture is the one I have.

[HayZee518]

pigtail

gimme a few minutes and I'll draw you a diagram. the pix on the right is the old style. the one on the left is what you want.

[Speedbump]

That's not necessary Hayzee. I understand how the electric part works, I'm just not sure how the machine worked. I'm sure it's 230 and 115 now as I found the tag. Apparently this machine came out before 2000 or it would have to had the one on the left from the start.