Kitchenaid Superba Error Codes

[Thunderfish67]

KitchenAid Superba KUDS01FLSS6. Successfully completed a small repair. When I turned the circuit breaker back on, my control panel buttons are not working. Currently, "Normal" and "Cancel" are flashing continuously at hte same time while "4 hour delay" is glowing steady. Any ideas or a solution? Thanks in advance. Took the day off work and was hoping I could get the thing running without issue...

[Dan O.]

completed a small repair?

Successfully completed a small repair.

Which was what exactly??

Currently, "Normal" and "Cancel" are flashing continuously at the same time

An indicator flashing continuously (ie. non-stop) usually indicates a 'stuck' button on the control panel. The button corresponding to the light that is flashing is usually malfunctioning. When a button without its own indicator light gets stuck, two indicators will flash to indicate a problem condition.

In the case of a 'stuck' control panel button, usually the control panel has to be replaced to correct the condition. On your model however the buttons look to be part of a separate circuit board (see the following link) in which case it might then be suspect.

LINK > KitchenAid KUDS01FLSS6 "User Interface" (button board)

You should also check the connections between the control panel switches and the electronic control for a loose or problematic connection. That is even more imperative if whatever repairs were preformed previously could have affected it.

(An indicator flashing in a particular sequence (eg. 6 flashes, then a pause and then repeating) is something totally different which would depend upon the sequence.)

while "4 hour delay" is glowing steady

I'm afraid I do not know what would cause that if it isn't also a result of the button problem. You could check the unit's 'tech sheet' which should accompany its wiring diagram to see if that condition is mentioned.


Dan O.
www.Appliance411.com
The Appliance Information Site
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[Thunderfish67]

Thanks for the reply! More info:
I recently had to replace the hot water supply hose. So I actually moved the dishwasher out from the cavity in order to re-feed the supply line through the cabinetry. That worked fine and has been performing great for about 2 months since I did that.

Over these last two months of working fine, it became clear that (7 years ago) the installer did a pretty bad job of installing the dishwasher originally...using a block of wood under my granite (glued with construction adhesive) and then not securing the dishwasher with either tabs above or on the sides. The result of moving the dishwasher out was that it dislodged the wood block, eventually the tab that secures the door was knocked loose.
Today's simple repair was to pull the machine out, remove the block of wood so that it wasn't interfering with the centered door-closure tab - sort of a metal spring clip - and reinsert the spring clip. That all seemed to go smoothly - as the door now makes a satisfying "click" when the door is closed.

However, upon resetting the circuit breaker, I looked at the door and found the flashing lights I described.

I am actually familiar with the electrical panel - I replaced it on this very machine about a year ago. I am hopeful it hasn't gone bad because I just replaced it. But, if it is hte circuit board, I do know I'm capable of repairing it.
A visual inspection shows all the connections to be pretty solid...not noticing anything loose.
I guess I am suspicious that it has to do with the closer - could it be possible that the machine, despite a very affirming CLICK, just doesn't think it's closed?

I am not against any kind of repair, just hopeful that I don't have to replace the control panel and then turn around and look for something else. As for the wiring diagram, I'm afraid I don't know where to get one, and it isn’t with my paperwork that I’ve kept...

Thanks again for offering advice, I greatly appreciate it!

[Dan O.]

could it be possible that the machine, despite a very affirming CLICK, just doesn't think it's closed?

A door latch switch problem might be a possibility but I'm not aware of such a problem resulting in your symptoms. It definitely would prevent operation of the dishwasher. With the previous trouble, looking into it regardless might be wise.

BTW. Gluing wood to the underside of granite for dishwasher mounting is common. It has to be secured somehow and on many dishwashers attaching along the top is the only option available.

if it is hte circuit board

I was NOT preferring to the main control circuit board but the switch circuit board. I don't imagine it would be any harder to replace though.

could it be possible that the machine, despite a very affirming CLICK, just doesn't think it's closed?

There are probably 2 door latch switches, plus, you don't even know if the sound you hear is from the switches. It might just be the latching mechanism.

As for the wiring diagram, I'm afraid I don't know where to get one, and it isn’t with my paperwork that I’ve kept...

There was one in the appliance when it left the factory. On dishwashers it could be behind the lower access panel (if it has one), rolled up inside the control console or behind the outer door panel. Be sure to put it back afterward!

JMO

Dan O.
www.Appliance411.com
The Appliance Information Site
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[Thunderfish67]

Thanks again. Understood. I did find the wiring diagram on-line. Not too good at understanding everything in there, but it did say that a stuck key is a possibility for a flashing light. So, it seems like a button could be stuck... The "Normal" key. Is a stuck key fixable or better to just get a new keypad? Thanks!

[Dan O.]

Is a stuck key fixable or better to just get a new keypad?

Not on the usual keypads. I don't know about on mechanical switch boards like your model looks to use. Sorry.


Dan O.
Appliance411.com
The Appliance Information Site
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[Thunderfish67]

So, are you referring to part number 11 in the attached picture? It looks like this is the electronic control.


At about a hundred bucks, I'm hopeful this is the part, or I could be buying a lot of things that aren't the problem...thanks for your insight - I really appreciate it!

[Thunderfish67]

Just to chase down all other things, I tested the pair of switches on the door for continuity. They both passed. I also tested the thermal fuse for continuity - it's fine. According to another site (repair clinic), I understand that there are two possibilities - (1) the door latch and the latch assembly could have failed - which means that I just have to order a new strike latch and the plastic assembly that holds the two switches; or, (2) the main repair board is fried.

Since the door does close pretty well, I'm leaning toward the main repair board. Is there anything else anyone can recommend testing before I order a hundred dollar part?
thanks!!!!!

[Dan O.]

So, are you referring to part number 11 in the attached picture?

No, #2. The same part I linked to in my first reply to you, the push button switch board. But the problem might be in the main control board as well... or even elsewhere.

I tested the pair of switches on the door for continuity. They both passed.

The door switches would have to be tested to confirm their contacts close when the door is closed. Just because they function doesn't necessarily mean they are being actuated properly.

Dan O.
KitchenAid+DishwasherAppliance411.com
The Appliance Information Site
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