Moving a Kitchen Stove Gas Line

[im80slady]

I am going to be renovating the kitchen in our smaller home soon and have decided to blow out a wall to open the kitchen to the living space. Right now it's a Galley type and very closed in. I have a built in gas stove (nice one) that I want to move about 6 feet down the counter to the new counter area that I am going to put in. Can I just run an additional gas line from the original stove area down to the new stove site?
Also, I will need to vent the stove. Does this vent need to go straight up thru the roof or can I extend the original venting with elbows to the new vent site? The vent will be on an inside wall so I can't just go out the wall to the exterior.
Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks

[pushkins]

Both of those questions are difficult to answer without a plan of what exactly needs to happen.

Technically yes you can move the line by adding on from it's existing location to the new, I'm assuming you want to run the line under cabinets etc... The shut off valve MUST be at the new location right where the stove connects.
There are a number of code issues that would need be addressed, like the material required to extend the line. If there is a basement or a crawl space below it is much better to run new lines in that space as opposed to under / in cabinets.

The venting is another problem area, there can only be "X" amount of bends (particularly 90 degree) over a given length of duct run. We would need to know just how far the duct run is going to be and what kind of bends are existing and will be added PLUS the duct size and the appliance requirements, manufacturers have guidelines for their appliance's ability to push the exhaust air and how many bends are allowed.

Both of these issues are very important both for safety and for the appliance's ability to function correctly. I've seen duct lines full of grease (etc) simply because the run was too long or too many bends for the appliance to be able to clear the air.

[im80slady]

Thanks. That answer at least gives me a jumping off point. I will be starting reno after renters move out, so I can get exact measurement s then. Thanks again for your help.

[Dan O.]

Vented??

I will need to vent the stove.

I've never seen a domestic gas stove that was vented outdoors. Are you certain it is vented?

Dan O.
Appliance411.com
The Appliance Information Site
=D~~~~~~

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[im80slady]

There was a vented hood above the stove when I did a walk through. I have looked into one of those electrical hoods that are hidden bin the counter and then come up when you flip a switch. No decision yet.

[HayZee518]

hood

the only downdraft hood I've seen was internal to the jenn-air range. it vents through a six inch pipe through the center of the range into a vent line under the stove.

[pushkins]

There a several models of in counter exhaust vents, Thermador make a nice one, again these still require strict guidelines for the ducting run length and number of elbows in the run. I'd suggest an "in line" motor if you want to reduce the fan noise as they can be noisy.

[Dan O.]

There was a vented hood above the stove when I did a walk through.

Ah, a separate range hood.

There a several models of in counter exhaust vents, Thermador make a nice one, again these still require strict guidelines for the ducting run length and number of elbows in the run.

I agree about the venting. Most range vent models are not super duty and can not handle any extra vent length! Follow the manufacturer's venting recommendations religiously!

There are a number of makers or downdraft range venting systems:

LINK > Downdraft Range Vents

JMO

Dan O.
Appliance411.com
The Appliance Information Site
=D~~~~~~

.

[HayZee518]

Fyi

you do anything with gas lp or ng, use a product called RECTOR-SEAL.
DO NOT USE TEFLON tape.
Reason: the rector-seal is approved for gas use. It is a heavy liquid that seals over time.
LP doesn't require a drip leg, NG does.
Check your local inspector. I'm sure he'll require the use of a licensed gas man.