Kenmore oven not working

[mikes5785]

My daughter has a kenmore oven that has quit functioning. Model # 911 7378611.

It has hot surface ignitors for the top and bottom burner. Neither ignitor will glow when trying to light the oven.

I have the bottom ignitor out and it appears "visually" to be ok. I do not yet the top one out.

1. What voltage am I looking for at the connections for the ignitors?

2. what resistance should I be looking for when checking the ignitors

3. are the ignitors in series so that they both have to glow when trying to light the oven?

4. or is the problem likely to be in the oven control not sending power to the ignitors?

Mike

[BonesandFeathers]

quote:Originally posted by mikes5785

My daughter has a kenmore oven that has quit functioning. Model # 911 7378611.


IS this a regular timer or an electronic?
Does she have timed cooking on?
you should have 115 accross the ignitor wires. But be careful, if you short them out you can damage the "Gas Safety Valve" then you are screwed, least till you pay for a new GS valve (50 75$)
BTW if and when you replace the ignitor be sure to cut the wires far enough bnack so you can get them out of the way. Also use porcelain wire nuts, not the plaastic ones.
Regards, Paul


1. What voltage am I looking for at the connections for the ignitors?

2. what resistance should I be looking for when checking the ignitors

3. are the ignitors in series so that they both have to glow when trying to light the oven? NOPE
4. or is the problem likely to be in the oven control not sending power to the ignitors?

Mike

[mikes5785]

Where would the wiring diagram be located as I can't find it?

The oven does not have a digital clock.

Thanks

Mike

quote:Originally posted by BonesandFeathers

quote:Originally posted by mikes5785



My daughter has a kenmore oven that has quit functioning. Model # 911 7378611.


IS this a regular timer or an electronic?
Does she have timed cooking on?
you should have 115 accross the ignitor wires. But be careful, if you short them out you can damage the "Gas Safety Valve" then you are screwed, least till you pay for a new GS valve (50 75$)
BTW if and when you replace the ignitor be sure to cut the wires far enough bnack so you can get them out of the way. Also use porcelain wire nuts, not the plaastic ones.
Regards, Paul


1. What voltage am I looking for at the connections for the ignitors?

2. what resistance should I be looking for when checking the ignitors

3. are the ignitors in series so that they both have to glow when trying to light the oven? NOPE
4. or is the problem likely to be in the oven control not sending power to the ignitors?

Mike

[BonesandFeathers]

Sears says this is a range oven combo. If the paperwork is still alive it is either unddr thge cooktop. or taped to the back of the oven. out of harms way.
Also remeber the ignitor can glow and still not offer enough resistance to open the gas alve. Also looks like the oven control is mechanical so you can check the output voltage at the control, or at wires for the ignitor(s).
Questions?
Paul

[mikes5785]

Well we finally figured it out. Turns out it was operator error, something or someone pushed in the “timer end” button which would not allow the oven to work. When I asked her what kind of clock/timer it had she told me and that jogged her memory. I wish she had remembered that sooner as it has happened in the past!!!!!

Thanks for the assistance

Mike

quote:Originally posted by BonesandFeathers

Sears says this is a range oven combo. If the paperwork is still alive it is either unddr thge cooktop. or taped to the back of the oven. out of harms way.
Also remeber the ignitor can glow and still not offer enough resistance to open the gas alve. Also looks like the oven control is mechanical so you can check the output voltage at the control, or at wires for the ignitor(s).
Questions?
Paul

[BonesandFeathers]

When I was on active duty with Sears about 40% of my "no heat in oven"
complaints were from some variant of having the timer set for "timed cook"
Just as a personal note. I always thought having a product code of 911 was like having a thirteenth floor in a hotel.
regards Paul

quote:Originally posted by mikes5785

Well we finally figured it out. Turns out it was operator error, something or someone pushed in the “timer end” button which would not allow the oven to work. When I asked her what kind of clock/timer it had she told me and that jogged her memory. I wish she had remembered that sooner as it has happened in the past!!!!!

Thanks for the assistance

Mike

quote:Originally posted by BonesandFeathers

Sears says this is a range oven combo. If the paperwork is still alive it is either unddr thge cooktop. or taped to the back of the oven. out of harms way.
Also remeber the ignitor can glow and still not offer enough resistance to open the gas alve. Also looks like the oven control is mechanical so you can check the output voltage at the control, or at wires for the ignitor(s).
Questions?
Paul

[dsaunders]

kenmoore oven not working

i replaced the glow stick it worked ok last 6 months.now nothing
i get no voltage(multimeter) to the glow stick and even tried another one,no go,
i read about a timer?on like mine a digital display,that needs to be on or off??
i know nothing about the control but to set to desired temp and off you go? if some body could explain to me i would be greatful,what to look for?
top works fine,
thanks for any help.
tis the season and mama needs her oven..

[HayZee518]

look for an ignition timer. if there's no flame during the light period the timer goes into a lockout which may reset itself after a cool down period.

[Dan O.]

Model number?

Kenmore [GAS] oven not working

First off, please post the appliance's exact and complete model number as mentioned in this forum's first post (see the folllowing link) to enable us to look up what appliance design you're dealing with. They're not all the same.

LINK > Please include Make and Model # in post

i replaced the glow [ignitor] it worked ok last 6 months. now nothing

If the oven ignitor is not even glowing, there could be a problem in any of the oven ignition components, its wiring circuit or even the oven control (whether electronic or conventional hydraulic - whichever used on whatever model of appliance you have).

You can read about how common gas oven ignition systems are suppose to work at the following link:

LINK > Understanding Gas Oven Ignition Systems

i get no voltage to the glow stick

Testing for voltage will not likely yield any useful results. As explained at the page linked above, in the case of the ignitor NOT glowing at all, the ignition system components can be tested for continuity to determine if they're the problem or not.

JFYI

Dan O.
www.Appliance411.com
The Appliance Information Site
=D~~~~~~

[dsaunders]

help oven wont lite

sorry model is 911.7398910 kenmoore by ge
tried a new igniter tonite no go 125oam
are there any fuses??and were are they located? as there were some bear wires that looked to have arched on the back cover,that go to the glow plug/igniter(im a automobile guy)
thanks

[Dan O.]

model is 911.7398910 are there any fuses?

Most often there are not any fuses in gas ranges and I do not see any listed in that model's parts list. The only way to be sure for it would be to inspect that range's wiring diagram to see if one was listed. I doubt it.

Did you check any of the ignition components for continuity (the ignitor probably isn't needed to be tested now being new)? How about the rest of the ignition circuit?

If none of the ignition components are open and there is no break in their electrical circuit, that would leave the control itself as the possible culprit of the ignitor not glowing.

LINK > Kenmore 911.7398910 Electronic Control

JFYI

Dan O.
www.Appliance411.com
The Appliance Information Site
=D~~~~~~