Whirlpool Electric Range F5E1 and Door Won't Lock

[mrcaptainbob]

It's a whirlpool model RF364PXKW1 , serial RM4011011.

So she baked a cherry and a blueberry pie day before. DELICIOUS! Now she wants to use the self cleaning feature to clear the drippings. All we get is an F5E1 code.

We can get it to show the self cleaning light. And then the timer shows 3:30. The door does not lock. After a short period of time the error code F5E1 Shows and a constant beeping. Pressing and holding the cancel key returns the unit back to standard clock time and all else functions fine.

What do I look for? A new module?

[Dan O.]

F5-E1 Lock/latch problem

The door does not lock. After a short period of time the error code F5E1

F5-E1 Usually indicates a problem in the locking mechanism. It could be a failure of a one of the switches on the locking mechanism (see the following link), a problem with the lock motor itself or the lock not being activated like due to physical damage or a wiring or electronic control problem.

The videos at the following link might help you to access and test the locking mechanism to try to pinpoint the cause in your case.


LINK > Whirlpool RF364PXKW1 Lock Asm.


Dan O.
Appliance411.com
The Appliance Information Site
=D~~~~~~

.

[mrcaptainbob]

Thanks for the link, Dan O. Although I could not get the video to work, there's enough there for me see what to do. I'll check all electrical and then go for the mechanical.
Thanks again for the quick response.

[Dan O.]

Part replacement video

I could not get the video to work

The video is on YouTube so you can try viewing it there directly:

LINK > YouTube: Whirlpool / Kenmore Oven Door Lock Motor Replacement (Part #W10107830)

JFYI

Dan O.
Appliance411.com
The Appliance Information Site
=D~~~~~~

.

[mrcaptainbob]

That helped out a lot, Dan O. Thanks. Is there a way to check the power to those switches? How can I find what values are needed? Or....should I just consider the unit bad and replace it?

[Dan O.]

Is there a way to check the power to those switches?

Usually power goes through a switch so you wouldn't usually check for power at the switch. A continuity test would usually determine if the switches were defective or not. A similar test could also be used to see if the lock motor's winding is electrically open, indicating it is defective... although that is not the only way it can fail.

LINK > How do I test for continuity?

Power to the motor could be measured to see if it was present when the lock should be locking. Power there but the motor NOT operating would usually point to a motor failure or it being jammed.

How can I find what values are needed?

Someone would have to consult the appliance's wiring diagram. All voltages will either be 120 volts or 240 volts depending on how and where it's being measured.

should I just consider the unit bad and replace it?

I would not suggest that, no. If you are not able to determine the cause with some amount of certainty, I suggest you consider calling in a professional before just replacing parts on a guess. That can get expensive.

JMO

Dan O.
Appliance411.com
The Appliance Information Site
=D~~~~~~

.

[mrcaptainbob]

Thank you, Dan O. for the guidance. I'll do that soon, as my wife is getting antsy to use it! You know....happy wife......

[Dan O.]

Door light switch

.

There might also be a door activated light switch which has additional contacts for the latch motor circuit. If so, it's functioning might need to be tested as well. A failure of it could stop power from getting to the latch motor, preventing it from operating and thereby causing the fault code.

Dan O.
Appliance411.com
The Appliance Information Site
=D~~~~~~

.

[mrcaptainbob]

There is 120 to that motor but no motor activity. Not even a hum. I'll order a new one, but first there's this: The under side of that motor is quite browned out. And, just beneath that motor is the oven light. And around that it is quite browned out. Lots of heat coming from around that light socket. Could that heat have compromised that motor? What can I do to re-insulate around that socket? Fiberglass insulation?

[Dan O.]

just beneath that motor is the oven light. And around that it is quite browned

There is sometimes a flat fibre gasket between the oven light lens cover and oven interior wall. It helps to prevent heat leakage around it. If your range had one (I can't tell from the parts list), it might be missing from replacing the bulb previously. It might also be possible the lens cover or socket is just not mounted tightly.

Here's a couple of different oven light socket gaskets which might be able to be used if necessary.

LINK > GE Oven Light Socket Gasket

LINK > Whirlpool Oven Light Socket Gasket

Could that heat have compromised that motor?

It's possible it might have contributed to the motor's failure. It has worked under those conditions for over 10 years even though.

What can I do to re-insulate around that socket? Fiberglass insulation?

If the range's insulation has been disturbed around the socket, it may be able to be put back into place. Other fiberglass insulation might also be able to be added.

Dan O.
Appliance411.com
The Appliance Information Site
=D~~~~~~

.

[mrcaptainbob]

Thanks, Dan O. I ordered the motor and both gaskets. (I think. There was no confirmation from PayPal.) I'll decide which gasket to use while replacing that motor. Based on your words I checked the socket from the oven side and found it was loose. Anxious to check that out! Thank you very much for the help, Dan.

[Dan O.]

.

At one time those light sockets were firmly mounted to the oven cavity. Nowadays they just snap into place. :/

There was no confirmation from PayPal

You might want to confirm with the RepairClinic just in case.

Let us know how goes.

Dan O.

[mrcaptainbob]

I called directly and found there was no order placed for the parts through PayPal. Also verified PayPal and nothing showed there. I did place the order while talking with the RepairClinic rep.

[mrcaptainbob]

I cannot remove that darned socket! I tried the video at Repair Clinic, but it won't work for me. Must be a computer issue. How does that socket come out? Spring clips? 1/4 turn?

[mrcaptainbob]

I found a you tube that showed it. I could NOT get that glass cover off! It works, so I left it alone. I cut a sliver of insulation from the back where it was bulging out and crammed that around the socket in back. Plugged it in and it works. My wife will will have it clean when we hit the sack tonight.