Maytag Gas Dryer No Flame After 10 Min.

[edku822]

I have a 10+year old Maytag gas dryer LDG412.
The dryer does not get hot. When the drying cycle starts, the heating element glows and the gas turns on, igniting a flame. About 5 minutes later, the gas shuts off (reached operating temperature?). Then 3 minutes later the heating element glows for about 10 seconds, where the gas does not turn on and does not ignite a flame. This cycles about every 5 minutes where the gas does not light. Other operation of the dryer works fine – tumbles, air blows, not clogged, etc. Some sites that I've searched on google says to replace solenoid and coil (I have a “Coil Secondar and Coil Holding Booster” according to Maytag parts list) when the heating element cycles on/off without igniting flame, but mine ignites the first time and doesn’t after that. Could it be thermostat or some other sensor besides the solenoid and coil? Please help me diagnose, so I can buy correct part (I already bought a $25 blower wheel that I didn’t need, it was just a clog).
Thanks.

[Dan O.]

Gas valve solenoid coils

When the drying cycle starts, the [ignitor] glows and the gas turns on, igniting a flame. About 5 minutes later, the gas shuts off (reached operating temperature?). Then 3 minutes later the [ignitor] glows for about 10 seconds, where the gas does not turn on and does not ignite a flame. This cycles about every 5 minutes where the gas does not light.

The fact that the ignitor glows should indicate that the control system (thermostats, timer, etc.) is working and is at least trying to turn the burner on.

The symptom you report is most often caused by a failure in one of the gas valve's solenoid coils. They are bad for working once or twice but crapping out when they get warm from use.

All of the coils are available together in a kit (see the following link) which should also come with their installation instructions.

LINK > Maytag LDG412 Gas Valve Coil Kit

JFYI

Dan O.
www.Appliance411.com
The Appliance Information Site
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[edku822]

Thanks for the prompt reply. The kit you referenced in the link does not look like the same one on my unit. I've got connectors on my coils where your parts have leads. Is there a different version?
Thanks.

[Dan O.]

Gas valve coils

The kit you referenced in the link does not look like the same one on my unit. I've got connectors on my coils where your parts have leads. Is there a different version?

Sorry, that model dryer could have used 2 different types of gas valves in it. The coils I linked to are for the original type valve, the newer version gas valve's coils can be found at this link:

LINK > Maytag LDG412 *newer version* Gas Valve Coil Kit

Those are even simpler to replace.

JFYI

Dan O.
www.Appliance411.com
The Appliance Information Site
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[powaking]

I have the same symptoms except it fires a second time but the flame is only present for about 5-10 seconds then cuts out. Then repeats. Everything else is normal (tumbles, vents are all cleaned out, goes through the cycles).

My model is MDG8600AWW.

I recently replaced the heating element that fires up the gas and I see that lighting up to ignite (which it does) but the flames don't stick around very long. First fireup it stays for about a good 20-30 seconds, then shuts off, few seconds later fires up for stays fired very briefly.

[roygbiv]

Already replaced both gas solenoid valves. Still problems.

My gas dryer is Whirlpool model LGQ8000JQ3. I have already changed both the gas solenoid valves, but this did not fix the heating problem.

The gas flame cycles properly on and off for the first 5 minutes of operation. But after that, only the ignitor glows on and off without a gas flame. Also, I only see the flame at the beginning when the dryer has been sitting idle for some time.

I took resistance measurements only after replacing the solenoids. Interestingly enough, the measurements on the new valves are the same as on the old ones.

Can someone advise on what to try next? Did I possibly get a bad set of replacement valves?

Resistance measurements:
3 terminal solenoid: 1-2:2000 ohms, 1-3: 591 ohms, 2-3: 1420 ohms
2 terminal solenoid: 1-2: 1300 ohms
Ignitor: 1420 ohms
Sensor: 0 ohms (correct since on/off switch is off because I can't get the open measurement with the dryer running)

Thanks!

[Dan O.]

changed both the gas solenoid valves

You mean the solenoid coils. The coils mount on top of the gas valve.

You replaced the coils in an attempt to correct this immediate problem?

The gas flame cycles properly on and off for the first 5 minutes of operation... Also, I only see the flame at the beginning when the dryer has been sitting idle for some time.

Those two statements seem contradictory to me. Please clarify.

Interestingly enough, the measurements on the new [coils] are the same as on the old ones.

The point of a resistance test would be to make them when (or very near) the time the problem was occurring. Is that when the measurements were made or were they made after some period of time which might have given them a chance too cool from operation?

Dan O.
www.Appliance411.com
The Appliance Information Site
=D~~~~~~

[roygbiv]

Yes, sorry I do mean the coils. I replaced both coils that sit on top of the gas valve. Yes, I changed the coils to fix the problem where the gas only lights for the first 5 mins of the drying cycle but then stops lighting.

I measured the resistance of the new set and the old set when each set was cold. Meaning the dryer had been idle for several hours.

So, it sounds like the best way to make the measurement on the coils is to let the dryer run until the gas stops lighting. Then stop the dryer, take off the covers, and then measure the coils - is that right? If I find that the resistances are within expected range, do you think the problem is with the actual gas valve itself?

Question regarding the ohm readings: The (cold) resistance across 1-3 seemed high compared to what I could find online. The expected values should be 1365 +/- 25 ohms but I was getting 2000 ohms. Is the 2k still considered within range?

Thanks!

[Dan O.]

stop the dryer, take off the covers, and then measure the coils

Some dryer designs have a lower access panel which can be left open while running. Yours is not so equipped so the fastest way to get back to them will have to suffice. Unfortunately it may not be fast enough to 'catch them in the act'. In such a case our technicians would removed the burner assembly for 'bench testing' in our shop which isn't available to you. You'll have to do the best you can.

Of course, disconnect power before servicing an appliance!

Question regarding the ohm readings: The expected values should be 1365 +/- 25 ohms but I was getting 2000 ohms.

On the 3 connector coil, two of the readings should add up to the third since it is just measuring both internal coils connected in series. 591 + 1420 ~= 2000. Both of those readings (591 ohms, 1420 ohms) are a bit high compared to what the schematic lists them at (1365 and 560) but I chalk it up to your meter or manufacturing tolerances. I wouldn't be too concerned especially if both new and old coils test the same.

BTW. You're looking for infinite resistance (no continuity) should they fail not just a slight variance in ratings.

Dan O.
www.Appliance411.com
The Appliance Information Site
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[roygbiv]

Guess I'm not fast enough with opening up the dryer. The ohm readings are the same as when the coils were measured cold.

So, do you think I need to replace the actual gas valve? It's a $100 part, which is expensive enough for me to consider getting a new dryer instead.

[Dan O.]

The ohm readings are the same as when the coils were measured cold.

They may not be the problem. It would be unusual (although not totally outside the realm of possibility) for new parts to be defective right out of the box and in exactly the same way the original ones were.

So, do you think I need to replace the actual gas valve?

If the coils aren't the problem the gas valve itself could be 'sticking' internally once it gets warm with use.

LINK > Whirlpool LGQ8000JQ3 Gas valve Asm.

I hate to say it is needed without some kind of confirmation. Maybe check local appliance service depots to see if they have a shop where they can test the burner assembly for you if you drop it off?

It's a $100 part, which is expensive enough for me to consider getting a new dryer instead.

A new gas dryer is still going to cost $400+

JMO

Dan O.
www.Appliance411.com
The Appliance Information Site
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[roygbiv]

Thanks Dan. I'll check into one of the local shops for service.

One thing I noticed tonight. The inside of the dryer smells like gas. I soap checked the gas supply from the shutoff valve to the connection at the back of the dryer and there are no leaks. So, there must be an internal leak inside the dryer itself - probably the gas valve?

[Dan O.]

Gas smell

If there is no leak prior to the valve, I would think it would have to be coming from the valve... or out of it (which it shouldn't without functioning coils).

JMO

Dan O.
www.Appliance411.com
The Appliance Information Site
=D~~~~~~

[roygbiv]

For as much as I'd love to say I fixed this thing, I decided to just go out and buy a used dryer. Found a good one for about $200 at a used appliance store. They deliver for free and haul away the old one. If I had changed everything in the burner assembly, it would have cost me close to that. So, I don't have bragging rights for fixing the dryer on my own, but I now have a functioning dryer and I guess in the end, that's all that counts. Thanks for all your input and help on this.