Kenmore Dryer Model # 110.60622990 Thermostat?

[gds154]

Hi I was hopeing that someone could help me with this iussue that I am
having with my electric dryer. About 2 months ago I stuck my hand inside of
the dryer to check the clothes and it was extremely hot. I am pretty certain
that it should not get this hot. Well, for about the past month and a half
or so it takes a really long time to dry the clothes. On average 1 1/2
hours - 2 hours for one load, and sometimes they are still damp after that.
I disconnected the power and took a look at the heating element and there is
no visible signs of it being burnt up or damaged. I also checked for lint
blockage and there is none. My question being, does this sound like a
thermostat problem? And if so it appears as if there are two thermostats,
one on the heater element, and one on the blower side.I do not have a Ohm
Meter or anything that I could test it with. Any Ideas? Thanks in advance,

Greg
gds154@charter.net

[HayZee518]

there could be two klixon overloads. one in the air outlet of the blower and one on the element case. these are both normally closed and in series with the dryer element. when the temperature exceeds the preset these open up, cool down and reclose, thereby cycling the element on and off. sometimes they open and stay open (they're made up of a bi-metal element) one metal expands at a faster rate then the other. do yourself a favor and go buy a cheapie ohm meter. you don't need a professional one - get something that can measure voltage AC and DC a resistance range of RX1, RX100, RX1K
don't worry bout the amperage on the meter its too complicated to explain to the novice on how to take current readings.

[gds154]

ohm meter

I have got a ohm meter. Im not sure how to go about testing it though with voltage. The low thermostat is showing resistance but it is at room temperature, The thermostat internal bias has 4 prongs so im not sure where to start.

[HayZee518]

the ohm meter has a selector for AC voltage, DC voltage etc. put the arrow on AC volts. There is a range switch, put the selector on 1000 volts. to test for voltage put the prods onto a known AC source and read the meter scale. As a rule, you always start with the highest range scale and then adjust down. since we're working with 220 leave it on 1000 or whatever the highest scale is on your meter. (could even be 750) when you are reading through a device such as a switch or overload, one prod goes on the chassis and the other goes before the device and after the device. the meter will read one-half voltage or 120. with power off and the unit unplugged, read through a device on the RX1 resistance range. as long as you can read continuity don't worry about the resistance you actually read unless it is a real high number as in the megohm scale. look at your power schematic. the four prong device should be shown as connected into the circuit. if you could get me a diagram of it i'll explain it.

[Dan O.]

Unlikely to be a thermostat problem

I stuck my hand inside of the dryer to check the clothes and it was extremely hot. I am pretty certain that it should not get this hot. Well, for about the past month and a half or so it takes a really long time to dry the clothes.

Those two symptoms are usually caused by a plugged dryer vent (see the following link).

LINK > How long can my dryer vent be?

I also checked for lint blockage

Where exactly? Only inside the dryer?

does this sound like a thermostat problem?

No, to me it sounds like an air flow problem. While a thermostat problem could cause the dryer to operate too hot, clothing would also dry faster with the added heat. The only way the dryer could be too hot but drying worse is if that air wasn't being circulated though the clothing or it not being exhausted.

JMO

Dan O.
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