My Maytag electric dyer (PYE2000AYW) will not start and the interior light does not work either. I have checked for a tripped circuit and that is OK. If the internal thermal fuse is kaput could this be the cause? I have changed out the thermal fuse and thermostat twice in this dryer's long life and I cannot remember all the symptoms from those incidents. I think this model eats the things and yes I am cleaning out the squirrel cage, exhaust duct, and vent at the time of replacement. I also clean the filter at the end of every load. Or since the light is out also, would a door switch or power cord problem be more likely culprits?
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Originally posted by nutherblond
Maytag electric dyer [model] PYE2000AYW will not start and the interior light does not work either. I have checked for a tripped circuit and that is OK.
Breakers can sometimes open without physically tripping. They should be turned off and then reset again but even that is no guaranty. Power should be checked directly at the appliance to confirm it is getting there or not.
If the internal thermal fuse is kaput could this be the cause?
LINK > Maytag PYE2000AYW Thermal Fuse Kit
since the light is out also, would a door switch or power cord problem be more likely culprits?
I have changed out the thermal fuse and thermostat twice in this dryer's long life. I think this model eats the things and yes I am cleaning out the squirrel cage, exhaust duct, and vent at the time of replacement.
LINK > How long can my dryer vent be?
JMO
Dan O.
www.Appliance411.com
The Appliance Information Site
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I installed a new thermal fuse and the included thermostat that comes in the kit. I got air flow, spin action, and heat at all the correct levels. I am calling the job complete. Incidentally, The light bulb was shot and I replaced that too. I happened to have a few of those, compliments from a nice GE sales rep. I wonder if the bulb could have taken out the fuse when it blew or vice-versa? Thinking back to the evening it happened there was a brown out in the city, which would have been right about the same time the last load was drying. At least I think it was that evening.
This is the third fuse install for this dryer's 12 year life. The first was done by a repairman, but did not include a thermostat change and the fuse wasn't a new part.
Thanks guys for the input. In case you are wondering--I had tried a heavy duty heater in the outlet and it worked, so knew I had power. As for the
venting it was clear and there are no kinks and the length is about 12 inches. I checked the internal exhaust below the drum and throughout the squirrel cage area and it was all clear.Last edited by nutherblond; 10-13-2007, 01:45 AM.
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Brownouts would do it too! Brownouts are caused by the power company's "load shedding" what they do is reduce the outgoing power in a feeder line to save the grid from tripping and causing more problems down line. It is electrical theory that states when voltage goes down, current goes up! So if an appliance runs on 240 volts at 20 amps, when the voltage goes down the amps go up to over 20-25 amps. the fuse just sees it as an overload condition and blows! It can't vary its setting. The trip setting of the fuse is a method of manufacture. Thermal fuses give you a little leeway in that they heat up, preventing nuisance tripping but they will blow if a certain rating is overcome. A light bulb that opens its filament could re-attach itself to the supply and re-light but at a higher amperage, so this could blow the fuse too!
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Originally posted by nutherblond
I installed a new thermal fuse and the included thermostat that comes in the kit. I got air flow, spin action, and heat at all the correct levels.
The light bulb was shot. I wonder if the bulb could have taken out the fuse when it blew or vice-versa?
As for the venting it was clear and there are no kinks and the length is about 12 inches.
Dan O.
www.Appliance411.com
The Appliance Information Site
=D~~~~~~Last edited by Dan O.; 10-13-2007, 03:19 PM.
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