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  • Dryer won't heat :(

    Electrical noob in the house

    My GE Profile #DPSQ495ET4WW isn't giving me any heat. It was tripping one of the fuses for awhile. I'd reset it and sometimes it would dry the rest of the load.

    The heater coils appear to be good. My ohm meter doesn't seem to want to work so I'll have to buy another very soon.

    I'm getting 122v at the elements. I disconnected the element wiring checking as I go. What is odd is I'm getting 122v from all of the wiring when testing them against the heater shield. No matter what setting I use, I'm not getting any power to the high heat switch. Maybe it's one of the thermal sensors?

    Nick

  • #2
    Dangerous testing

    Originally posted by Blind Driver

    GE Profile [dryer model] DPSQ495ET4WW isn't giving me any heat. It was tripping one of the fuses for awhile. I'd reset it and sometimes it would dry the rest of the load.
    I assume you're describing a breaker in the house breaker panel? (You can't normally reset "fuses".) If so, you likely have a problem there, either a bad breaker or a bad connection causing the breaker to trip. Call an electrician.

    I'm getting 122v at the elements.
    I don't know how you're testing it but dryer elements usually operate on 240 volts (see the following link). If either 'hot' leg of the power supply drops out, no heating will take place.

    LINK > Can anybody tell me the most likely scenarios for lack of heat in an electric dryer?

    Make sure there is the full 240 volts at the dryer's outlet (see the following link). If not, have someone look into your breaker panel as the tripping breaker likely has finally failed for good now.

    LINK > Dryer Power Supply


    I disconnected the element wiring checking as I go. What is odd is I'm getting 122v from all of the wiring when testing them against the heater shield.
    Between any 'hot' power lead and ground (or neutral) will read 120+/- volts. That is normal.

    Most of the dryer components should be tested for continuity anyway (see the following link), not voltage. Testing on a 'live' appliance is also very dangerous! It is best avoided... especially if you are not sure what you're doing.

    LINK > How do I test for continuity?

    JMO

    Dan O.
    www.Appliance411.com
    The Appliance Information Site

    =D~~~~~~
    Last edited by Dan O.; 10-16-2008, 02:36 AM.

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    • #3
      I checked everything. The only thing I can think of is a bad circuit board.

      *edit* I'm getting an infinite ohm resistance from 2 terminals on the motor. One of them goes to a 100v connection from the wall. Looks as like I may have bad motor.
      Last edited by Blind Driver; 10-19-2008, 12:23 PM.

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