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  • Funny but not Cool

    Doing 55 down the interstate my new used Whirlpool ET22DKXFW00 Refrigerator came flying out of the back of my pickup. Not much visible damage, had to replace the power cord due to road rash. The freezer fan comes on, and the interior lights work... but the compressor and evap fan do not come on. If I hook up 120 vac to the compressor, both the compressor and evap fan run and cool? Unit is a 1997 Whirlpool 22 foot, freezer on top. I may have lost something with road contact with regard to the compressor connections. I just have two wires, both have 120 VAC to them? Photo attached.
    Thanks.

  • #2
    Clarification needed

    .
    If I hook up 120 vac to the compressor, both the compressor and evap fan run
    The evaporator is the cold part of a refrigerator and its fan would be inside the freezer compartment. You are likely referring to the condenser fan motor by the compressor??

    Photo attached.
    I don't know if attachments (or links) are allowed to be included in your messages until you have posted more in the forums, to help prevent spammers. I didn't see the photo regardless. It would have been helpful to see what is at the wiring at the compressor.

    I just have two wires, both have 120 VAC to them?
    At the same place where you "hooked up 120 vac to the compressor"?

    I don't see how both (having power but not running but running with direct power) would be possible. As long as the compressor is getting power, it should be running. You may be testing incorrectly.

    How the condenser fan is powered will depend on how it is wired on your model. Someone will have to determine why power is not getting to the compressor because it can't be if it is capable of running but not.

    JMO

    Dan O.
    www.Appliance411.com
    The Appliance Information Site

    =D~~~~~~

    Comment


    • #3
      Dan, I tried to upload the pic a different way.

      At any rate, the way I was able to get the compressor and evap fan running was to disconnect the plastic connector going to the rest of the refrigerator then using alligator clips run two wires from the two main (not ground) hot wires and clipped them directly on the red and white wires on the compressor. This then powered the compressor and evap fan, but not the lights and condenser fan in the freezer. I only ran it this way briefly, but it was getting cold and the compressor and fan sounded fine.

      With everything hooked up normally, if I disconnect the red and white wire on the compressor I have 120 VAC to ground on both of the wires. That does not seem right to me, but I'm not sure what I expect to see. Someone suggested that the red and white wires are reversed, but it does not seem to matter. I have tried all combinations of how to attach these two wires to the four terminals. One on the top relay and three on the bottom relay. Nothing seems to make a difference. Thank you.

      Comment


      • #4
        The evaporator is the cold part of a refrigerator and its fan would be inside the freezer compartment. You are likely referring to the condenser fan motor by the compressor??
        Yes, I meant the condenser fan. When I hook up the compressor directly one of the wires is the common wire, one hot and the compressor and condenser fan run. With everything hooked up like normally I have two hot wires running to the compressor? Seems like one should be a common or ground?
        Last edited by Dan O.; 10-24-2008, 02:09 AM. Reason: Edited quote

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        • #5
          if I disconnect the red and white wire on the compressor I have 120 VAC to ground on both of the wires. That does not seem right to me
          No it isn't. One has to be the neutral wire which would read no (ie. zero) voltage between it and ground.

          I'm afraid I have no idea of how both those wires could be 'hot' (aka 'live'). The only thing I can think of is maybe there a short in the wiring somewhere? Maybe where it goes through the cabinet where it might rub on a sharp edge? Someone will likely have to trace the wire harness from the compressor to see if the problem can be found. The photo does not help.

          Dan O.
          www.Appliance411.com
          The Appliance Information Site

          =D~~~~~~
          Last edited by Dan O.; 10-24-2008, 02:07 AM.

          Comment


          • #6
            Progress Made

            I found that I had reversed the hot and common main power cord when I replaced it...therefore causing both wires on the compressor to show 120 VAC. My excitement was short lived as now I have no voltage on either terminal at the compressor. The evaporator (freezer fan) runs and the light come on.

            I decided it must be the defrost timer. I was pretty sure where it was and managed to remove the motor cover from the timer. What a lot of small parts. I know see the other side where you can turn the timer At any rate I advanced the timer several times. The evap fan cycles, but the compressor and the condenser fan do not come on. So I do not think it is the defrost timer...which is now toast

            The compressor and condenser fan still run if I hook 120 vAC to the compressor terminals.

            Comment


            • #7
              I found that I had reversed the hot and common main power cord when I replaced it... therefore causing both wires on the compressor to show 120 VAC.
              Correcting that would then just make each of the compressor power wires neutrals, solving nothing.

              I advanced the timer several times. The evap fan cycles, but the compressor and the condenser fan do not come on. So I do not think it is the defrost timer.
              No. The defrost timer switches power to either the defrost system or cooling system as a whole (see the following link) not each individual component.

              LINK > How does a frost free refrigerator's defrost system work?

              All fans and the compressor should be switched together. The only difference being where the wiring for each diverge. (Both condenser fan and compressor are often on the same circuit of the wiring harness if not directly connected to each other.)

              JFYI

              Dan O.
              www.Appliance411.com
              The Appliance Information Site

              =D~~~~~~

              Comment


              • #8
                Power Cord to Fridge

                Changing the input cord wiring does make a difference due to the way the rest of the connector is wired. (there is a white wire which runs directly to the compressor...without going through the internals of the fridge for input) #1 is how I have it wired now, #2 had 120 VAC at the compressor on both wires. I'm not sure which was is correct, but the 120 on both wires seems wrong to me. Either way the internal lights work and the evaporator fan runs when the thermostat is not in the off position.

                Comment


                • #9
                  Thanks for your help

                  Once I got the wiring right, I found the hot wire from the connector to the compressor was broken. Seems to be running fine now...time will tell. Thanks again for all your help. Anyone have a used defrost timer
                  Cheers.

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Originally posted by cbaymac

                    causing both wires on the compressor to show 120 VAC....

                    ...I found the hot wire from the connector to the compressor was broken.
                    That should have prevented any voltage reading from that wire. That would contradict your previously reported results.

                    Anyway, glad to hear you seem to have solved the problem. Thanks for the follow up.

                    Dan O.
                    Appliance411.com
                    The Appliance Information Site
                    =D~~~~~~
                    Last edited by Dan O.; 10-24-2008, 09:02 PM.

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Dan, I changed the hot and common wires which made the readings change and everything start working. Anyhow, I now have a new problem. I had a bag of ice that was melted and the water re-frozen a week ago. Seems the compressor only starts back up again when it wants to? If I tap on it...it starts. If it starts running it keeps running until the thermostat turns it off. I'm wondering if one of the start capacitors might help? There is not one on the compressor now.
                      Thanks,

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Clarification needed

                        If I tap on it...it starts.
                        If you tap on what? The compressor?? Are there any sounds from the compressor before that?

                        If tapping/jostling the compressor starts it running, there might be a problem with its starting relay or overload protector or maybe a chance of a loose wiring connection.

                        If you're tapping on something other than the compressor itself to get it going please tell us on what exactly.

                        I'm wondering if one of the start capacitors might help?
                        I doubt it. Needing a start capacitor would only be a possibility (and only a slim one at that) if the compressor was trying to start but failing. From what you said above I assume you're describing that it is not even trying until you tap something or other which would point more to an electrical problem than a mechanical one with the compressor.

                        JMO

                        Dan O.
                        www.Appliance411.com
                        The Appliance Information Site

                        =D~~~~~~

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Result

                          How did you make out with this? I seen you posted a reply (which since then was deleted by you?) with just a couple of smiley face icons in it but have no idea what that was suppose to mean.

                          Dan O.

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