Maytag DE308 does not start

[Peretz]

My wife and I recently moved into a new apartment and set up our old Maytag washer and dryer (model DE308) after the units were in storage for a year and a half. Aside from replacing a dry-rotted rubber piece, the washer was good to go. The problem is the dryer.

A maintenance guy at our apartment complex hooked up the ductwork for the dryer and plugged it in. I tested it the next day by setting the timer and pressing the button to start the unit.

Nothing happened when I set the timer and pressed the button. It didn't even try to start tumbling.

The timer did work (I could hear it), so I unplugged the dryer to see if the timer was mechanical (not requiring electricity) or electric. I unplugged the dryer and the timer stopped, verifying that the unit was getting at least some power.

I have no way of testing the power socket, but I don't have reason to believe that's the cause of the issue.

I've never opened up a dryer before and I'm scared of electrocuting myself even after unplugging the unit. Does the dryer hold a charge?

Can anyone advise me on what may be wrong with the dryer? Moving has been an expensive process and my wife and I can't afford to buy a new dryer right now. Even paying a technician to fix the current unit is hard to swallow.

Any help is greatly appreciated.

[Dan O.]

Does a dryer hold a charge [even after unplugging]?

No.

Can anyone advise me on what may be wrong with the dryer?

Maybe a bad door switch or problem with the motor (defective, jammed up, etc.).

You can find some repair information which might be helpful for your model dryer at the following link:

LINK > Maytag 'Dependable Care' Electric Dryer

JFYI

Dan O.
www.Appliance411.com
The Appliance Information Site
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[Peretz]

Okay, it looks like the connectors on the door switch are corroded:

brainstormwarning-org/gallery2/main.php?g2_itemId=727

EDIT: Was unable to post a link because of forum rules. Replace -org with .org to view a picture of the dryer switch and corroded connectors.

Can anyone recommend a safe and effective way to clean off the corrosion?

And would corroded connectors be enough to keep the door switch from working? (I'm guessing yes, but I wanted to make sure.)

[HayZee518]

if the connectors are very, very corroded then they may not make contact. But even the slightest contact of metal to metal will conduct electricity. real way to check out the door switch is to just jump it out with a set of alligator clips and a piece of wire. if the thing starts then it is safe to assume the switch is at fault. then remove the jumper and try it again if it doesn't start you've found the culprit.

[Peretz]

I'm a noob when it comes to repairing home appliances (though I've worked on computers for years), so I've never jump-started an appliance before.

What's the procedure and what equipment do I need?

[Dan O.]

Can anyone recommend a safe and effective way to clean off the corrosion?

I doubt the oxidation alone is the cause of the problem but the proper course of action would usually be to replace any affected terminals... possibly along with what they were connected to.

Information LINK > Crimp on connections

The switch itself should be able to be tested for continuity to see if it was functioning or not.

LINK > How do I test for continuity?

JMO

Dan O.
www.Appliance411.com
The Appliance Information Site
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[HayZee518]

you've probably used a break out box before? same thing you use jumpers between two points.

[Peretz]

The dryer is running again!

I went to Walgreens, bought baking soda and a cheap toothbrush, came home, made a baking soda paste (3 parts baking soda, 1 part water), applied it to the contact points on the door switch and the wires leading to the door switch, waited 8 minutes, washed off the paste, let it air-dry for 5 minutes, re-connected the dryer switch, re-attached the front door, plugged the dryer back in, and turned it on.

Total cost: About two and a half bucks.

My only concern now is that the dryer smelled like a heater does when you first turn it on in autumn or winter. I'm hoping it's the result of the dryer sitting in storage for a year and a half, but my wife and I are going to try a test run with one or two damp towels and closely monitor the dryer.

[Dan O.]

My only concern now is that the dryer smelled like a heater does when you first turn it on in autumn or winter. I'm hoping it's the result of the dryer sitting in storage for a year and a half

That's quite possible. Keep an eye on it.

JMO

Dan O.
www.Appliance411.com
The Appliance Information Site
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[Peretz]

That's quite possible. Keep an eye on it.

The dryer operated without issue until today. My wife typed out the sequence of events, so I'm pasting that here:

Touched up a few damp items last night, after a few minutes, started making a high-pitched buzzing noise. Stopped the dryer, items were dry, so I pulled them out and hoped that it was just that I'd run the dryer several times that day and...something. Wishful thinking, I know.

This morning, threw in a load of jeans from the wash, started dryer, awful high-pitched buzzing sound again. Stopped it (being careful to turn the knob the correct way). Started it again, same sound. Tried it on permanent press, same sound. Let it go a couple of seconds and it stops on its own.

Now if I try to start it, it makes a sound for a split second like it wants to start, but it doesn't start.

Took all the jeans out, thinking maybe the weight of a bunch of wet jeans is part of the problem (I know, wishful thinking again), and it does the same thing. Won't start.

I should also mention that I got it to work, seemingly at random, about 10-15 minutes after my wife emptied out the dryer and started looking at sales on appliances online. I walked over, set the timer, pressed the button, and it started tumbling--like it should--immediately.

I then turned off the dryer, put in half a load of jeans, set the timer again, pressed the button--same thing. Sound, but no tumbling.

After it was clear it wasn't going to start tumbling again, I popped off the door like before, checked the door switch, all seemed fine with the door switch, took a flashlight and looked for any visible damage, and the belt seemed fine.

I put the door back on, plugged the dryer back in, turned the knob to 40 minutes on Regular, pushed the switch, and it just made the same sound it always make when it's getting ready to work--but didn't start tumbling.

As an experiment, I opened the door, set the timer, and pressed the button to start the watch. It looked as though the door switch sparked when I pressed the button. I tried pressing the button again and nothing happened--not even the noise it was making before. I closed the door, pushed the button again, and it made the noise, but, once again, didn't tumble.

I'm thinking the next step should be to buy a new door switch, but I don't want to spend $20 on a part that won't solve the problem.

Money is tight right now, so we don't want to pay $60 or more to call out a technician, but we also don't want to buy a new washer and dryer after skipping Black Friday sales (when we didn't know the dryer was having problems).

We'd be interested in buying a used dryer off craigslist, but we don't know how we need to dispose of the dryer. We also don't know how we'd transport our old dryer to a dump or a new (used) dryer to our second-floor apartment.

Please advise.

[Dan O.]

started making a high-pitched buzzing noise.

From what exact component on the dryer or at least which specific area of it?

Any of the mechanical parts (motor, idler pulley, drum rollers, drum slides, blower fan, etc.) could make a squealing sound because of a problem with them. The motor not being able to turn for whatever reason might buzz or hum until its internal overload protector finally kicked it out. (That protector would reset on its own once the motor had a chance to cool.)

I should also mention that I got it to work, seemingly at random, about 10-15 minutes after

That might point to the motor's internal overload protector having time to reset.

It wasn't making any strange sounds at that time?

I opened the door, set the timer, and pressed the button to start the watch.

Which 'button'? The door switch or a console switch?

It looked as though the door switch sparked when I pressed the button.

If the door switch is what you used to 'start the watch', the sparking could be normal. That switch is not intended to engage the dryer itself. It's contacts are usually already closed when the dryer starts so no arcing would normally take place during a start up.

It is also possible that just the additional amperage caused by the motor not being able to turn might result in that switch's contacts (or any contact in the motor circuit) to arc when engaged.

I'm thinking the next step should be to buy a new door switch

I doubt the door switch is the cause of the problem but might need replacement depending... but I think the first step is to pinpoint the actual origin of the sound.

JMO

Dan O.
www.Appliance411.com
The Appliance Information Site
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