Frigidaire refrigerator probs

[Glotharg]

1992 model FPCI21TPL0
Noticed it hummong pretty loud last few days.. thought maybe it was off kilter as I would twist it and it would stop making noise. It's not cooling anymore now. I pulled it out.. the cooling coils in back weren't too dusty.. the compressor was very warm. I upplugged it and pulled the freezer back off.. nothing was iced up.. so I put that back together.. Whats the amperage draw on the compressor so I can check and see if its the relay or overload? I don't think it's pumping the R/12 through the lines... how do you check really...

[Glotharg]

nevermind

The tag on the inside said 5.5 amp. I let it cool down for an hour and plugged it in.. I was getting 11+ amps across the relay.. this tells me the condenser is shot. oh well.. time to buy a new one.

[Dan O.]

Starting or Running??

plugged it in.. I was getting 11+ amps

While it was trying to start or while the compressor was actually running?

At start up the compressor draws considerably more amperage then its usual running amperage (which is why a refrigerator's circuit is fused at 15 amps). If the relay was just failing to get the compressor running, your measurement could be expected. Failure to get running could just be the result of a failed relay.

LINK > Frigidaire FPCI21TPL0 Compressor Relay

the condenser is shot.

The condenser is just tubing which refrigerant flows through. If the compressor is running but drawing excessive amperage, the compressor would be defective, yes, and likely not worth repairing for that age of appliance.

JMO

Dan O.
www.Appliance411.com
The Appliance Information Site
=D~~~~~~

[Glotharg]

First let me apologize for my spelling errors.

I was tired and not thinking straight. my readings were incorrect
I used a amp meter across the leads, and not through the meter. I used a clamp meter and get a small spike (maybe 6 amps) but then everthing reads 1 amp after that. I don't get it.. it's not drawing amps.
Here is a simple "sketch" of the wiring
Simple diagram. I have the power in, split to different electrical areas.. light switch, fan, ect…
the only 2 wires that go down to the compressor, are the red and white wires. The Red wire goes to Overload, compressor. The white wire goes to the left side of the relay. What I would think would be the run capacitor, is a chunk of plastic with 2 black wires going into the relay.
JSU18X156AQA
180VAC 15uF
70c 10000AFC
50/60Hz


I get 118 volts everywhere.. so.. whats my problem? I don’t think the compressor is actually on?
Is my relay shot? I have 118 volts everywhere... I have contunuity across all leads of the relay...thats not right is it?
Can I jump the leads to see if it starts the pump? I don't think it's spinning at all.

[Dan O.]

I used a amp meter across the leads

What leads exactly? Hopefully the red or the white running directly to the compressor.

but then everthing reads 1 amp after that. I don't get it.. it's not drawing amps.

What "everything"? You should be measuring the current draw of the compressor only if that's the component you're scrutinizing.

And 1 amp is something. It's a bit low for most refrigerator compressors but some refrigeration conditions will result in a lower than normal amperage draw of the compressor.

I don’t think the compressor is actually on?

If the compressor wasn't running it should be getting warm drawing 1 amp continually. Unless you're measuring the amperage draw of the whole refrigerator which might not necessarily have anything to do with the compressor's operation.

JMO

Dan O.

[Glotharg]

I grabbed a 15 uf run capacitor from work.. checked it.. and plugged it in.. same as before... I pulled the plug out of the inside freezer back panel and seen frost around the coil tube. now.. could the PTC button inside the relay be bad? telling it to start.. but not run?... It could be the relay as you said.. but I will let this run for a but and see if thats my problem.. I will take the current run capacitor into work and check it to make sure its not blown.

Edit*
The coils in teh back of the freezer panel are frosting up... I am thinking the compressor isn't pumping maybe as the fridge isn't getting cold at all... I will try buying a relay I guess...

[Dan O.]

seen frost around the coil tube

The only way ANY frost will develop is if the compressor IS running.

The coils in teh back of the freezer panel are frosting up

What does the frost pattern on the evaporator (cooling) coil look like (see 'Refrigeration System Problems' at the following link).

LINK > My frost free refrigerator is not cooling properly. What might be the problem?

Actual photos might help.

I am thinking the compressor isn't pumping

That's one possible refrigeration system failure, yes.

I will try buying a relay I guess

If the compressor is running, that would be a waste of time.

JMO

Dan O.
www.Appliance411.com
The Appliance Information Site
=D~~~~~~

[Glotharg]

Looking at the relay schematics for the relay, there is a run side and a start side.
What I believe is happening is it gets a current from the start side.. but then doesn't switch to run.. I will pull the freezer apart again and see how the coils look.. and how much of it frosts up... Regardless.. I have checked everything else.. run capistor is good.. but I am only drawing 1 amp or so.. most likely from teh fan.. i will isolate it more today.
Best to spend $50 bucks for a relay...that could be the problem... then spend $700 on a new fridge... and never know what was the problem.

[HayZee518]

start winding will draw in excess of 125% of nameplate run current. then once it's up to speed the amps drop dramatically at or below the nameplate current. if there's a start winding the compresssor will have three terminals. one is common to both windings.

[Glotharg]

I was going to try to bypass the relay and hard wire a switch and see if I can just turn on the compressor and see if it's blown or not.. but I can't make heads or tails of the electronical diagram...
I am thinking the red wire to the top.. and the white wire split to each bottom?
I can't like the pdf.. but just copy and paste it into your browser

sensata.com/download.8ea.pdf