Maytag Dependable Care Plus Maytag Dependable Care Plus, LDG9334AAE - not much heat

[debrey]

I recently bought a condo from a dog owner who did not clean appropriately.

When we bought the place, I cleaned out the dryer exhaust -- more than two vacuum canisters full of dog hair and lint. But still it would take at least two drys on "heavy" to dry a normal load of clothes.

So yesterday I took the front off of the machine. I removed the "throat" that the lint goes through and washed this -- it was full of hair/lint. I removed all the lint I could see. I am now fairly confident that there is no lint in the machine or through the vent.

Nonetheless, it still takes at least two dryings to dry clothes. It does get hot, but not hot enough.

Any ideas what the problem might be?

Also, any idea how old this model would be? I am wondering if it makes sense to get it repaired if I can't solve the problem myself.

[Dan O.]

Venting?

I cleaned out the dryer exhaust

All the way from the dryer *to the outdoors*?

How long is the vent, what material is it made from and how many elbows does it have? (see the following link)

LINK > How long can my dryer vent be?

any idea how old this model would be?

That is determined using the serial number. Once you get that you can find out the age for yourself using the service at the following link:

LINK > Appliance411 Date Code Search

JFYI

Dan O.
www.Appliance411.com
The Appliance Information Site
=D~~~~~~

[debrey]

Thanks for your reply. I didn't respond because my dryer vents up to the roof, which up until recently had wasps on it.

Now that they are disposed of, I checked the vent on top and bottom again. The top is still clear. But I found that right _past_ the curve that goes up was a whole 'nother vacuum canister full of lint and dog hair. Thanks for telling me to check again! I used a mirror and now I am fairly sure that it is a clear path straight up to the dryer -- although it is possible I missed something.

We ran the dryer twice today and now it takes about an hour and a half for each load. That's better than it was and now when the dryer claims to be dry, it really is dry. This strikes me as still not great time, but certainlyan improvement.

The dryer was built in 1993. At 16 years old, I don't know if it makes sense to pay someone to repair it.

Any thoughts on things that might lower the drying time some more?

[debrey]

Oh, and I forgot to say:

Up to the wall my dryer vent is a new metal-accordion type. It is impossible to have a fixed vent since the washer and dryer are in a closet (I live on a third floor condo) and you need to be able to attach the vent and then push the dryer back. That part of the vent is only about 8 inches long and has two 60 degree turns.

I have no idea what is in the wall leading up to the roof.

[Dan O.]

Vertical venting likely the problem

I have no idea what is in the wall leading up to the roof.

That would be the most important part... along with its length. Did you read the information at the link I supplied?

Another key piece in the puzzle is the vertical run up to the roof.

At 16 years old, I don't know if it makes sense to pay someone to repair it.

With the Maytag dryer design you have in most cases it would be worthwhile to have repaired at the age but I doubt your drying problem has much to do with the dryer's operation although there is a slim chance it could be a contributing factor only (leaking drum seal, etc.).

With an electric dryer is is often possible to rule out the venting as the cause of problems by drying a load with the venting totally removed from the dryer. If drying improved it is a sure sign the vent is (at least part of) the problem. With a gas dryer it is not safe to run it without a vent unless the room it is in is well ventilated. It should also only be done minimally, only for testing purposed.

I doubt you'll find any dryer that will vent adequately though the roof, especially a new one. The one you have is likely as good as it gets. The venting likely needs to be altered, either running it out through a wall to the outdoors or with the addition of a booster fan, to get the dryer functioning optimally.

JMO

Dan O.
www.Appliance411.com
The Appliance Information Site
=D~~~~~~

[debrey]

Thanks for your response. I am on the third floor of a three-story condo and venting out the wall simply isn't an option -- plus the vent would end up having to be 20 feet longer to get to an exterior wall. The vent is only about 12 feet up to the roof -- so it is well within the length restrictions. Do you think a booster still makes sense?

The vent in the wall felt like metal when I twisted my hand into it and tapped on it.

I will try doing one load with the vent disconnected. It is well ventilated.

[HayZee518]

for the sake of argument and to prove a point take a 50 foot length of garden hose and blow through one end. its kinda hard, you feel a back pressure which is the resistance in the hose walls. now, don't destroy the hose but get a short length of a similar hose, say about three feet long and blow into it. all the air goes through it with little resistance. apply this phenomenom to the 4 inch dryer vent. you see my point?

[debrey]

for the sake of argument and to prove a point take a 50 foot length of garden hose and blow through one end. its kinda hard, you feel a back pressure which is the resistance in the hose walls. now, don't destroy the hose but get a short length of a similar hose, say about three feet long and blow into it. all the air goes through it with little resistance. apply this phenomenom to the 4 inch dryer vent. you see my point?

I see that as a nice illustration that shorter dryer vent runs are better than longer ones. But I don't really see what actual advice you are suggesting. Do you think I should reconfigure my entire home and get in a fight with my condo association so I can have a 4 foot run of dryer vent? I think a booster probably would be a better solution, if something like this is needed.

[HayZee518]

no, I didn't mean anything of the sort. Dan's suggestion of a booster fan is A ok!

[debrey]

Sorry, my last response was a bit prickly -- I didn't mean to be a jerk.

[Dan O.]

The vent is only about 12 feet up to the roof -- so it is well within the length restrictions.

That depends on the material it is made from and the number of elbows in it. And then the vertical direction has to be taken into account.

Most manufacturers don't recommend a vertical run at all. All the guidelines are strictly for normal horizontal runs.

I am on the third floor of a three-story condo and venting out the wall simply isn't an option

Builders frequently design very poorly situated laundry rooms unfortunately. They're mainly concerned with water supply and drain.

Do you think a booster still makes sense?

If the hidden venting is adequate (rigid metal, minimal elbows, etc.) it might be an option to look into. You might also want to consider having a Maytag factory authorized service depot check out the dryer's operation to make sure there isn't anything in it contributing to the problem.


Someone did snake the venting *all the way from the roof to the dryer* to make certain it was *thoroughly* clean?

LINK > Dryer Vent Brush

LINK > LintEater Rotary Dryer Vent Cleaning Kit

Dan O.
www.Appliance411.com
The Appliance Information Site
=D~~~~~~

[Psycho0124]

It might be worth it to get someone to check out the burner function. There are little electromagnetic solenoids that open and close the valves in there that, after 16 years of service, could easily be getting weak. They may not be opening fully, closing prematurely as they warm up, or one of them may be entirely dead leaving you with just one working burner. Functioning so close to a high heat source for so long is a difficult task for any piece of equipment.

[debrey]

It might be worth it to get someone to check out the burner function. There are little electromagnetic solenoids that open and close the valves in there that, after 16 years of service, could easily be getting weak. They may not be opening fully, closing prematurely as they warm up, or one of them may be entirely dead leaving you with just one working burner. Functioning so close to a high heat source for so long is a difficult task for any piece of equipment.

Is it possible for me to check the solenoids myself, or do I need a repair tech for that?