Kenmore refrigerator Light stays on inside

[michlea]

Model # 363-9738780 Kenmore refrigerator with a freezer on top. Food was really warm. I discovered the light was staying on when the door was shut. I took the bulb out temporarily and now I use a flashlight to see. It looks like the switch unit just pulls out. I am looking for a new switch but couldn't find anything on the sears parts website. The unit is about 15/16 yrs old. Can anyone help me out on getting a new switch or making a repair to the existing switch?

[Dan O.]

Fridge light switch

It looks like the switch unit just pulls out.

The type of switch used for that purpose on most refrigerators (including yours) does snap in from the front and can usually be carefully pried out using a putty knife or similar implement... with the power OFF of course.

I am looking for a new [light] switch

You can see the light switch called for by your model at the following link:

LINK > Kenmore 363.9738780 Light Switch

That particular part is priced ridiculously high for what it is. The one from a different manufacturer at the following link would *probably* work in place of the recommended replacement. It's probably worth a try?

LINK > Possible Alternate Light Switch


JFYI

Dan O.
www.Appliance411.com
The Appliance Information Site
=D~~~~~~

[michlea]

Dan the Man for sure. I will pull out the old switch and take a closer look at it to make sure the cheaper switch "fits the bill". The difference may be the fit....but I am not opposed to filing away some of the cabinet if the switch is too big or using tape/caulk/glue if it's too small!!!! lol I will order the cheaper switch and see. Thank you and I will again let you know.

Is AppliancePartsPro.com your business or is there a commission for you when I purchase a part? The reason I ask is I purchased the lid switch for the washer you helped me with on Ebay for $10.00 as compared to about $30.00 on appliancePartPro.com

[Dan O.]

Size likely Ok

The difference may be the fit.

No, switches of that type usually fit into a fairly standardized hole. The problem may be the wire terminal positioning and if the appliance wiring connector(s) can accommodate them. If they're separate wire terminals than likely no problem.

Is AppliancePartsPro.com your business or is there a commission for you when I purchase a part?

They are a separate company that supports my Appliance411 site through commissions paid for sales referrals. They'd likely prefer me to just link to the more expensive original part though? It's still cheaper there than at Sears.

Dan O.
www.Appliance411.com
The Appliance Information Site
=D~~~~~~

[michlea]

Cheaper switch may work but I've another question

Hey DanO - The cheaper switch looks like it may be just a little bit longer and the terminals are further apart; however, the female terminals coming from the fridge are separate inside a very pliable rubber-like harness. I can snip the harness in the middle to separate the female terminals to accomodate the extra width. I can join them back together with some black tape.

NEW Question: I removed the light bulb from the socket about 1 year ago. I put a working light bulb back in the fridge to see if it lit up and stayed lit like it did before I removed it. It did not light no matter what position the switch was in. I attempted to make sure there was still voltage coming from the female terminals with the switch removed. I didn't get anything on the volt meter; however, the probes on my voltmeter were too thick to insert into the flattened sockets. I was only able to touch the very outside edges of both the + & - socket. Is it possible I now have a different problem or a blown fuse in the light assembly in the fridge? How should I proceed? Thanks, Michele

[Dan O.]

Testing?

The cheaper switch looks like it may be just a little bit longer

You mean the plunger that gets activated by the door? If so, that shouldn't usually cause a problem.

and the terminals are further apart;

Exactly.

terminals coming from the fridge are inside a rubber-like harness.

Yes, that will be the problem.

I can snip the harness in the middle to separate the female terminals to accomodate the extra width.

That may be a solution.

I can join them back together with some black tape.

That wouldn't be absolutely necessary. The terminals are just together in a single connector for speed of assembly at the plant rather than having to deal with separate wires. Having the two parts plugged in separately should be fine.

It did not light no matter what position the switch was in. I attempted to make sure there was still voltage coming from the female terminals with the switch removed.

The light didn't work before or after the switch was removed?? No power should flow to the light with the switch disconnected from the circuit.

I was only able to touch the very outside edges of both the + & - socket.

You're certain you were touching the outer contact for the bulb socket? It may not have fully metal thread like a normal lamp socket has. It may just have a small contact point that makes contact with the bulb threads at a single point only.

Is it possible I now have a different problem

Anything is possible but before you jump to conclusions, have you made sure the bulb is good? Those cheap sockets also fail quite often.

or a blown fuse in the light assembly in the fridge?

There should be no fuse anywhere in the appliance.


JMO

Dan O.
www.Appliance411.com
The Appliance Information Site
=D~~~~~~

[michlea]

answers and thanks!

1) No I am not refering to the plunger. The unit itself appears to be a bit longer but It's hard to see for sure. According to the 1" grid.

6) Leaving the switch in place, I put a working bulb (made sure it lit in another socket) back in the socket and it no longer lit. (Reminder - I took the bulb out a year ago because it stayed lit all the time)

7) It's been 23 yrs since I've needed to test circuits like this! I tested it wrong. I was testing across the switch terminals....duh. Can you remind me how to check the bulb socket?? LOL

8) I'll bet the socket is no good. It's been left open & exposed to moisture for a year now. Are those hard to replace?

[Dan O.]

I tested it wrong. I was testing across the switch terminals....duh. Can you remind me how to check the bulb socket?

Testing on a 'live' appliance can be very dangerous. It is best avoided.

IF you were going to anyway, with the bulb removed someone would have to pinpoint the center contact in the socket for the bulb base and also the side contact that connects with the bulb's threads and then test for power (aka 'voltage') between them.

Before attempting that, testing the switch's contacts for continuity (see the following link) could be done. It may now have failed in a permanently open state due to the recent handling instead of being shorted like it was previously.

LINK > How do I test for continuity?

The socket could also be tested (and more safely) by gaining access to its wiring, disconnecting them and then testing for continuity between the terminals with a bulb in place.

I'll bet the socket is no good. It's been left open & exposed to moisture for a year now.

I would expect a socket to fail more from use than non-use.

Are those hard to replace?

It too should snap into place.

Dan O.
www.Appliance411.com
The Appliance Information Site
=D~~~~~~

[michlea]

Switch tests good on continuity tester

Okay, The light switch in my fridge tested good on the continuity tester. It must be the socket for the light has failed. I have bounced around on your website, the repair clinic and the appliance clinic and can't find a light socket for this fridge or directions on how to remove and disconnect it. Do you have any links for me or am I stuck in the dark... (At least I'll have clean clothes!)

Thanks, Michele

[Dan O.]

can't find a light socket for this fridge

The light socket can be seen at the following link.. The AppliancePartsPros site was experiencing problems at the time of posting but you can try searching with the number there later.

LINK > Kenmore 363.9738780 Light Socket

can't find directions on how to remove and disconnect it.

I don't know where you'll find directions for that. The wires just plug onto it the same as the switch's wires do.

JMO

Dan O.
www.Appliance411.com
The Appliance Information Site
=D~~~~~~

[michlea]

Thanks again for all your help Dan! Just by looking at the socket itself I can see how it comes out and back in. I shouldn't need any further direction. I will pull it out and test it first, then I will order the socket from Repair Clinic next pay day! (learned my lesson from the washer switch! LOL) I just don't know how to begin to thank you. I would like to post a link to this site on my facebook and personal website. I will also place the link to your site as well. I'll let you know how this turns out!

I don't know how you found the part....I keyed in "light socket refrigerator" in the search box at Repairclinic.com and I didnt get anything....