Refrigerator has hot compressor

[jc95]

New to this site and it is very well done!

The refrigerator in question is a Whirlpool Gold side x side model
ED25LFXGN00 manufactured in July 1999 and purchased Jan. 2000.

Day 1: Leaving and noticed freezer veggies soft as I got ice that was soft. Bumped up thermostat setting and it kicked on. Temps fine until morning...freezer 36F and fridge 45F

Day 2: Looked into the issue some more. Cleaned condenser coils (moderately dusty) and all ran fine. Plugged in and compressor and all lights and fans work. Thermostat set at mediium setting. 4 hours later unit is still running and freezer at -15F and fridge at 28F....backed thermostat down.

Day 3: temps back up and after 2 hours unit still not running even with thermostat bump up but lights are on. Pulled freezer back and noted coils are not frosted over...only slightly at the bottom. Plugged unit back in and everything now runs. Unit runs 3 hours...freezer -05F and now the fridge steady at 45F...pulled everything and unplugged

Note: I have not noticed any clicking or other issues. All was well until Day 1. THE COMPRESSOR IS HOT TO TOUCH...hot enough I can't keep my hand on it for more that 5 secs. Air is moving into the fridge but it seems warm and low flow even with freezer being below 0F

Oh ye great ones of appliance repair, what do your think? I keep thinking I have narrowed it down and I keep getting curve balls.

Thanks and take care (sorry so lengthy),
JC

[HayZee518]

fridge is ten years old. oil in the compressor - freon line may be breaking down. purpose of oil is to lube the motor bearings. it normally travels with the freon. if it ain't lubricating the bearings you might have one breaking down inside the compressor causing the heat. check the amperage of the running unit with an amprobe. running amps and LRA should be stamped on compressor nameplate.

[Dan O.]

Refrigeration system problem?

Pulled freezer back and noted coils are not frosted over...only slightly at the bottom.

The evaporator (cooling) coils should frost evenly across its whole surface (see the following link). Partial frosting of the evaporator coil usually indicates a refrigeration system problem.

LINK > My frost free refrigerator is not cooling properly. What might be the problem?

All was well until Day 1. THE COMPRESSOR IS HOT TO TOUCH...hot enough I can't keep my hand on it for more that 5 secs.

If the compressor overheated it could have contaminated the refrigeration system. A compressor overheating is usually caused by it trying to start up but failing, over and over again. That is usually accompanied by clicking sounds and/or lights on the same electrical circuit dimming each time it tried.

You might need to call in a professional to see if it can be repaired.

JMO

Dan O.
www.Appliance411.com
The Appliance Information Site
=D~~~~~~

[jc95]

What next?

Thanks for the replies.

After reading posts of this and other sites I had reluctantly come to that conclusion also...however, your replies with their expert opinions are what I was after and are much appreciated.

So, I have been told by a few that a compressor replacement is around +/- $500. This being the case, the fridge is 10 years old and cost $850 new. Am I correct in assuming that there is no sense in repairing it (and what's next with it)? I talked with a service shop today that told me not to bother repairing the unit and had come to the same compressor conclusion you guys did (in a friendly way said it was a waste of my money for him to come and tell me what you guys already did...and no, he does not retail anything).

I am interested in your opinions and also your feelings on what brands you prefer. I have noticed that several brands are now owned by just a few companies. Anyone of them stand out as really good or bad?

Thank you and take care,
JC

[jc95]

Hay Zee 518,

At what points do I test? I think it know but want to be sure...just curious as it seems this problem is beyond my intervention ability.

Thanks, JC

[Dan O.]

I have been told by a few that a compressor replacement is around +/- $500. This being the case, the fridge is 10 years old and cost $850 new. Am I correct in assuming that there is no sense in repairing it?

IF the compressor is the problem, no it would not usually be worthwhile to have repaired in a 10-year old refrigerator.

I have noticed that several brands are now owned by just a few companies. Anyone of them stand out as really good or bad?

I personally stay away from GE products. Whirlpool generally has pretty decent products across the line.

JMO

Dan O.
www.Appliance411.com
The Appliance Information Site
=D~~~~~~

[jc95]

Thanks for the help

Thanks Dan for the information. What don't you like about GE products? By the way, out of curiosity I plugged the frige back in today and everything came right up but the compressor (which was running) was too hot to touch within 10 minutes.

JC

[mrcaptainbob]

GE issues...

A great indicator of appliances with problems is to scroll through this forum and check the thread headers. There's a reason it's mentioned on a repair forum.

[paul52446m]

New to this site and it is very well done!

The refrigerator in question is a Whirlpool Gold side x side model
ED25LFXGN00 manufactured in July 1999 and purchased Jan. 2000.

Day 1: Leaving and noticed freezer veggies soft as I got ice that was soft. Bumped up thermostat setting and it kicked on. Temps fine until morning...freezer 36F and fridge 45F

Day 2: Looked into the issue some more. Cleaned condenser coils (moderately dusty) and all ran fine. Plugged in and compressor and all lights and fans work. Thermostat set at mediium setting. 4 hours later unit is still running and freezer at -15F and fridge at 28F....backed thermostat down.

Day 3: temps back up and after 2 hours unit still not running even with thermostat bump up but lights are on. Pulled freezer back and noted coils are not frosted over...only slightly at the bottom. Plugged unit back in and everything now runs. Unit runs 3 hours...freezer -05F and now the fridge steady at 45F...pulled everything and unplugged

Note: I have not noticed any clicking or other issues. All was well until Day 1. THE COMPRESSOR IS HOT TO TOUCH...hot enough I can't keep my hand on it for more that 5 secs. Air is moving into the fridge but it seems warm and low flow even with freezer being below 0F

Oh ye great ones of appliance repair, what do your think? I keep thinking I have narrowed it down and I keep getting curve balls.

Thanks and take care (sorry so lengthy),
JC

Have you had a serviceman check it out as yet? It could be low on gas. The gas coming back in the suction line is what cools the compressor.
There might not be anything wrong with the compressor. Later Paul

[HayZee518]

Paul, why are servicemen so quick in saying the unit is "low on gas?" When it left the factory it was charged according to their engineering specs. Now, ten years down the line it is automatically "low on gas." IT IS A CLOSED SYSTEM! If nobody's messed with it, the freon just don't leak out unless someone buggered up a silver solder joint or installed a tap a valve.

[Dan O.]

NOT "low on refrigerant"

It could be low on gas. The gas coming back in the suction line is what cools the compressor.

That's nonsense. The compressor would run fine without overheating just sucking plain air through it. The only time it should overheat was if it was being excessively labored for some reason or there was a problem in its motor windings or starting device.

JMO

Dan O.
www.Appliance411.com
The Appliance Information Site
=D~~~~~~

[jc95]

Update

Hello All,

Update: Unit was unplugged for 24 hrs. Plugged back in today (was home and curious). All systems go for 2hrs, then into defrost mode (defrost element was hot) for 1/2 hr, back to cooling for 1/2 hr (defrost element off/cold, then shut down for 5min, then back up cooling for 2.5 hrs, then defrost 1/2hr, then I lost track. When I left for the evening the until was cooling and freezer was -16 and fridge was 38 (with thermostat set on middle/average settings. It took a while (6+ hrs) to get to this temp.

The compressor was running hot and I noticed the clicking noises a couple of times when the compressor was wanting to start for cooling (eventually started after a 10 minute attempt). Also I noticed that the evaporator coils never really moderately frosted all across the coils...only at the bottom and hardly at the top. As before, all fans are running and all lights are on.

And now...13 hrs after plugging it in, fridge is at 45 and freezer is at 32 and the unit has not run for the 2 hours I have been home tonight. However, the second I opened the fridge door to check the temps, the whole unit came to life with the compressor running.

Question: should I have someone look at it or just forget it with a very hot compressor and no true frosting of the evap. coils? I called a second repairman today and he said the same as the last after I briefed him on my findings...forget it, it's a compressor issue and go get a new unit. If I buy a new one, what should I do with the old one (well cared for other than the current issues)?

Thanks to everyone for their input. I look forward to hearing from you one last time on this.

[jc95]

Update 2

One more thing,

5 minutes after I posted that the unit (and compressor) began running after the last temp. check the thing just suddenly shut down and I heard three quick and distinct clicks from the bottom of the back side. Lights are on but nothing else works even with themostat bump. Temps are all above freezing with fridge at 50.

If the compressor is bad why will the thing run for 2+ hrs at a time and cool the freezer to -18 at one point and then won't run at all for a long period of time, then suddenly comes back to life? Still not even frosting of the coils and all fans were working.

Take care,
JC

[HayZee518]

a difference in pressure is what cools down the evaporator. a liquid cannot be compressed but a gas can. a typical refrigeration cycle is: low pressure vapor goes to the compressor. [suction side - larger tubing] vapor gets compressed to a high pressure gas. [smaller diameter tubing] fed to the condenser which gives up latent heat and gas changes to a cool [cold] liquid. liquid flows to a thermal expansion valve -or- an orifice at the evaporator which slows down the speed of the liquid. in the evaporator the cold liquid absorbs heat and the liquid changes back to a gas loaded or latent with heat, back to the compressor and the cycle starts over again. so the gas coming back to the compressor really doesn't cool anything down, its somewhat cool because its leaving the evaporator. the mineral oil thats incorporated to the compressor and system lubricates the motor. it is 99.9% void of moisture. a bad motor bearing, a crankshaft bearing or a wristpin on the piston contributs to an increase in motor amps. this is what clicks on a compressor [the overload relay or thermal overload in a motor called a klixon] the klixon or current relay resets itself after a time delay.

[Dan O.]

Don't let it click!

The compressor was running hot and I noticed the clicking noises a couple of times when the compressor was wanting to start for cooling (eventually started after a 10 minute attempt).

That is what most often causes the compressor to heat, attempting to start but failing... over and over and over again.

At the first sign of clicking from the compressor relay/overload, the appliance should be turned off or unplugged for 10-15 minutes to allow the compressor a chance to cool. If it doesn't start right up when turned on again it should be left off until it can be serviced.

Allowing the compressor to continually attempt to start can damage the compressor... if it isn't already the cause.

5 minutes after I posted that the unit (and compressor) began running after the last temp. check the thing just suddenly shut down and I heard three quick and distinct clicks from the bottom of the back side. Lights are on but nothing else works even with themostat bump. Temps are all above freezing with fridge at 50.

The fan(s) were not operating either?

The compressor and fans should be on together if the refrigerator was calling for cooling. The fans running but the compressor not is a sign of a problem at the compressor. Both fans and compressor all off may just be because the unit happens to be in a defrost cycle or, of course, the fridge is not calling for cooling.

LINK > How does a frost free refrigerator's defrost system work?

JMO

Dan O.
www.Appliance411.com
The Appliance Information Site
=D~~~~~~