Tweet
Lady Kenmore portable compact washing machine
Model 110-7460600
Vintage mid-1970s
Won't spin. The spin control magnet (solenoid) isn't pulling its plunger up.
If I lift the cam bar by hand (using a screwdriver), the tub spins. But the magnet won't keep it up.
With leads disconnected from the magnets, the spin solenoid (coil) has no resistance across its terminals. The wash solenoid measures about 600 ohms. According to the repair manual, this confirms that the spin coil is the problem.
Just to confirm that, I checked voltage. During the wash cycle (manualy advancing the timer, tub empty), the plunger gets 30-40v. When told to spin, it gets about 122V (multimeter is set on AC, right?). The other solenoid (controls washing mode), works okay and gets similar numbers during the wash cycle.
I doubt I'll find a replacement magnet assembly, but would think I can replace the spin solenoid. Except, I can't unscrew the tapered screw that holds the assembly in place.
I really don't want to buy a new $500 washer because of a frozen 25-cent part that keeps me from replacing a $10 part. So questions:
1. I've tried plenty of Liquid Wrench on the tapered screw, tapping it fairly hard to promote penetration. No budge.
2. The last thing I want is for the screw head to break off, so I'm afraid to use a breaker bar (more leverage)
3. What is "tapered" about the screw, and why? Does this mean that drilling out the screw isn't a workable solution?
5. Using a torch or heat gun doesn't seem wise to try. I'd be afraid of burning the belt, or setting the grease (what little is left of it) or solvent on fire.
4. Any other suggestion?
5. What voltage should the magnet be getting during when not spinning?
6. Anyone know a MacGyver/Rube Goldberg solution? I'd settle for that. I'd consider plastic-tying another solenoid next to the bad one, but hooking it up to the cam bar looks questionable.
The bigger reason I don't want to replace the machine: In 35 years I've needed to replace only the pump, timer, and spindle bushing. Yet I would still replace this washer in a minute, IF anyone made anything like it these days. Nobody does. When not hooked up to the kitchen sink, it's my food-prep island, or else tucked nicely under a counter. And with the mechanical timer, I can set any laundry process. Everything these days is too tall, curvy and sometimes flimsy on top, throw-away construction, inflexible, or not movable. I guess portable washers these days live in the bathroom closet?
Model 110-7460600
Vintage mid-1970s
Won't spin. The spin control magnet (solenoid) isn't pulling its plunger up.
If I lift the cam bar by hand (using a screwdriver), the tub spins. But the magnet won't keep it up.
With leads disconnected from the magnets, the spin solenoid (coil) has no resistance across its terminals. The wash solenoid measures about 600 ohms. According to the repair manual, this confirms that the spin coil is the problem.
Just to confirm that, I checked voltage. During the wash cycle (manualy advancing the timer, tub empty), the plunger gets 30-40v. When told to spin, it gets about 122V (multimeter is set on AC, right?). The other solenoid (controls washing mode), works okay and gets similar numbers during the wash cycle.
I doubt I'll find a replacement magnet assembly, but would think I can replace the spin solenoid. Except, I can't unscrew the tapered screw that holds the assembly in place.
I really don't want to buy a new $500 washer because of a frozen 25-cent part that keeps me from replacing a $10 part. So questions:
1. I've tried plenty of Liquid Wrench on the tapered screw, tapping it fairly hard to promote penetration. No budge.
2. The last thing I want is for the screw head to break off, so I'm afraid to use a breaker bar (more leverage)
3. What is "tapered" about the screw, and why? Does this mean that drilling out the screw isn't a workable solution?
5. Using a torch or heat gun doesn't seem wise to try. I'd be afraid of burning the belt, or setting the grease (what little is left of it) or solvent on fire.
4. Any other suggestion?
5. What voltage should the magnet be getting during when not spinning?
6. Anyone know a MacGyver/Rube Goldberg solution? I'd settle for that. I'd consider plastic-tying another solenoid next to the bad one, but hooking it up to the cam bar looks questionable.
The bigger reason I don't want to replace the machine: In 35 years I've needed to replace only the pump, timer, and spindle bushing. Yet I would still replace this washer in a minute, IF anyone made anything like it these days. Nobody does. When not hooked up to the kitchen sink, it's my food-prep island, or else tucked nicely under a counter. And with the mechanical timer, I can set any laundry process. Everything these days is too tall, curvy and sometimes flimsy on top, throw-away construction, inflexible, or not movable. I guess portable washers these days live in the bathroom closet?
Comment