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Hi Folks, newbie on the block proposing to add two electrical baseboard heaters, one with an inbuilt t-stat and the other without. Can this stated hook-up be done or will I need to run separate circuits. One heater is 1500 W and the other 300W, so if it is the latter solutionthat is recommended I assume that I could safely run two 120 circuits given that the amperage is within safety guidlines. Any comments?
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do you plan to run the heaters end to end or seperated like around a corner. In either case the total wattage is 18oo watts. The load to the circuit would be 7.5 amps. 14/2 with ground would be sufficient. Use a two pole 15 breaker. If end to end use something called a "chase nipple" with a locknut and a plastic bushing 1/2" electrical size.
The amperage draw was figured using 240 volts at the input. Formula is wattage divided by input voltage to get amps.Last edited by HayZee518; 09-10-2011, 01:13 AM. -
Thanks HayZee518, as you queried, the heaters will be separated. What I really require is that the 1500 W heater be operated by a wall thermostat and that the 300 W heater (around the corner) with it's built-in t-stat be operated separately. The heaters are in my garage and the 1500 W heater is for general heating while the 300 watt heater will be used specifically to dry out my hockey gear. Could I simply just run a 240 line (12/2 cable) to the wall thermostat and then to the 1500 W heater and then to the 300 W heater. I may need to add another heater so the wiring would be adequate even if I was using 3500 watts.Comment
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Heaters
Take a look at this diagram. It may be what you are looking for. BTW the 12/2 you are running can be fed with a 15 amp breaker. If you want to go with 20 amp that's your choice. Total draw is 7.5 ampsComment
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Since your previous reply I realize now that my idea of going to a wall thermostat won't work. It will shut off, or turn on both heaters. In your diagram where is the thermostat located?Comment
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the first thermostat is located in the junction box on the plaster ring. a spliced 12/2 goes out the second romex connector to your remote heater with ITS thermostat integral with the heater. wall thermostats for line voltage are usually double pole single throw two wires in [red, black] and two wires out [also red, black] If you need a complete drawing write me back and tell me.
A 3500 watt load draws 14.5 amps, so a two pole 20 will work.Comment
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Heater
Time for a new diagram. This diagram is not any different than the previous one. This one shows point to point wiring between the devices. The wall thermostat will not affect the fan forced unit. The cable on the upper left is the in feed to the box.Comment
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The fog of a late night and early morning is lifting and I welcomed your new diagram. It seems pretty straight-forward and I'll now decide where to place the junction box and thermostat and then get on with it. Many thanks.Comment
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Follow up
Hi Hay Zee, I've got the thermostat as you recommended and now have an additional question.Originally posted by HayZee518 View Post
My plan, based on the diagram, is to bring the supply feed, and the two heater feeds into a junction box. From there I will go to the standard 2 x 3 x 3 electrical box for the thermostat connections. The box would seem small in which to fit the thermostat and four wire connectors. What say you?
It would be nice to have the junction box and the thermostat all part of one unit, but the devil is in finishing later on with the wallboard.Comment
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Heaters
The following is a diagram of a side bracket, 4 inch square junction box with a 1/2 inch raised, single device plaster ring. There is adequate room for the device and any splices you need to make.Comment
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Junction box
Thanks again, I should have asked for a plate to fit my junction box when I picked up the thermostat. I have to go to a "specialty store" in town, the box stores just carry the most popular items.Comment
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