40A 110v install

[HayZee518]

ok - the one breaker space with the two handles in one one inch space is a tandem breaker. it is fed off one bus stab so the output is 2 - 20 amp circuits not 40. from what I can tell they have separate trips. cutler-hammer is the caddillac of panelboxes. campbell-hausfeld lists two motors available for that compressor - a 1 horsepower and a 2 horsepower. one hp equals 746 watts. take 746 and divide by 120 or 240 to get approx amps.
typical motor nameplate information is VOLTS, AMPS, LRA, [locked rotor amps] FR = frame number. yours looks like a 56 frame. temp rise like 40 degrees C, insulation type B

[ncc74656]

yes, i see that the 2 20A does not equal 40 wich is why i was thinking of replacing it with a 40A. the breaker at menards was a double wide breaker with a single switch on it and 2 terminals. it was listed as a 110 or 220V breaker.

the plate is very hard to read and currently facing my truck bed box. the motor i have appears to be the 1HP version as thats the model number of my compressor. i can clearly read 110 and 60hz on the side and then what i think says 40A after that. my question is if this is truly a 6.2A compressor, how the hell did it trip the breaker of 20A? what would a normal cold startup amp pull be? is 6.2A the startup or the nominal operating draw?

no idea what the temp rise your talking about means.

[HayZee518]

any motor when it starts exhibits a direct short to the line until it is up and running at rated speed. current inrush is 135% of nameplate rating. 8.37 is this current amount.
any motor driven compressor uses an unloader so the motor doesn't start under an air load. are you knowledgable in using meters for troubleshooting electrical, like an ohm meter? check from each leg to equipment ground - you should read zero with the switch open.
with the switch closed you'll read the resistance of the motor winding. you may also read the capacitor which is in the start winding. take off the capacitor and see if its ends are bulging outward. if so you have a shot capacitor. replace it with a duplicate value.

[HayZee518]

at the top of this forum you'll see a box that says chat. go there and I'll talk to you directly ok?

[ncc74656]

tomorrow when its light out ill take apart the motor and ohm it out

[HayZee518]

motor diagram

I made up a basic drawing of a motor hope it helps

[ncc74656]

it does, thanks. here is that link i couldnt find last night: youtube /watch?feature=player_detailpage&v=P9M__yYbsZ4#t=27 7s again, replace teh space with a .com

[ncc74656]

the cap comes out at 3.2 ohm. i have not had a chance to pull the bells off yet

[HayZee518]

did the capacitor spark at all before you rang it out with the ohm meter> usually they hold a charge for a pretty long time. IF it didn't spark, then chances are good it is shot for even an open cap will ring out with a meter. best test for a cap with a meter is an analog meter. with the range switch on RX1 the needle will sharply deflect to the right and then reverse and discharge through the meter. reverse the probes and it'll do it again.

[ncc74656]

no spark, no voltage in it either on the meeter