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  • No Power to 220

    My Hot water heater stopped working, checked plug and no power there. Plugged hot water heater to dryer outlet next to it and it works fine. Pulled cover off recepticle and tested with multimeter and nothing there. Went to breaker (actually checked that first) and pulled cover and tested all lines coming off switches and everything is hot. Nothing was labled, so I checked all 220 circuits. I found 1 for range, 1 for dryer, 1 for shop, 1 for heater and one more that I am assuming is the hot water heater. turned off breaker and took wires out of breaker and hooked red/black and black together to do a continuity check at receptacle. still open circuit. hooked black to ground at breaker panel and checked- open(checked continuity from ground at recepticle to cold water pipe and it was a closed circuit) -hooked red black to ground- open circuit. Any ideas? Either I'm checking the wrong circuit or both wires have a break in them. The house was built in the early 70's. There shouldn't be anything else on a water heater circuit should there? This is driving me crazy any help would be great! thanks

  • #2
    With everything disconnected from the breaker like you have it, you need to jumper the terminals or wires together at the receptacle in order to test for continuity. Like connect the black and ground together at the receptacle, then test for continuity at the breaker from the black and ground wires and so forth. You're reading an open circuit now cause it is open at the recep. You may have a bad connection at the receptacle screws so remove the cover and place a jumper wire between the conductors to be sure.

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    • #3
      I was checking continuity at the receptacle and have the wires un-hooked at both the receptacle and the breaker to eliminate anything except the wires. It shouldn't matter what end of the circuit I have jumped as long as I am checking the other end should it?
      thanks
      Myk

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      • #4
        No, it shouldn't matter which end you check from, I thought the receptacle was still intact and you were checking from the breaker. Well, are you sure this is a straight run and no juction box is in between the breaker and the receptacle. If you're sure, then you may have a break in the line, no continuity would confirm this then. Was any recent remodeling done where a nail could of punctured the line, it could then of possibly arched, but then the breaker should of tripped. Kinda wierd actually

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        • #5
          No remodeling done. Power was down for a bit and when it came back on that's when I noticed the hot water wasn't working. I don't have a clue if there is a junction box anywhere, seems like it should be a straight run. Looked at the gage of wires at the breaker and the one I was working on was 1 of 3 that had the largest wires, and 1 of 2 that had a red and black wire like is at the receptacle. The other goes to the Range. Any ideas what else to check?
          Thanks,
          myk

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          • #6
            If your're sure these wires are open, then I would try to trace this wire out to see if you can tell it's route, there may be a junction box in line with it and the junction has failed, it could be in the basement, in the attic, anywhere. That's where I would start. This is a strange one for sure.

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            • #7
              I'm not 100% sure I'm looking at the right wires at the breaker, more like 99%. It's a 1 story house on a slab with a flat roof. It's only 22' from the breaker box and must go through the ceiling. There is a swamp cooler on the roof, but I found the circuit that is on. Only 120v. Any ideas on how to make sure I'm looking at the right breaker and wires? Couldn't find a junction box anywhere in the vicinity of the run. If there is one it should be visable with a plate on it correct? Kinda leary running the hot water heater for an extended time off the dryer circuit. It has 2 30 amp breakers and a lot smaller wires versus the 2 50 amp breakers.
              Myk

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              • #8
                The wire gauge will be bigger for the water heater, probably 6 gauge and the dryer is 10. Turn off the breaker for all the other equipment one at a time to elimite them and you'll know which 220volt breaker it is for sure. Don't run that heater on the smaller dryer circuit wire as it'll heat up and could cause more problems.

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                • #9
                  Problem Solved. Had and electrician come out and the circuit I was testing isn't hooked up to anything. Their is another small panel on the other side of the power meter that was just for the water heater. When the power guys turned our power off they took the switch out and turned it upside down, then when they turned it back on they didn't change it back. Thanks for the help
                  Myk

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                  • #10
                    That's great, sounds like the power company cost you a sevice call though, they owe ya one now for sure[8D] Thanks for letting me know the outcome.

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