Outlet replacement questions

[Cam]

Hi,

I'm currently replacing outlet receptacles in a 25 year-old home and I want to ensure that all the work I do meets code. All the circuits in the home are 20 amps and all the wiring I have encountered is #12. While replacing the old outlets I've run into receptacles that have more than 4 wires in the box, not including ground wires. These old receptacles have wires on all four screw terminals, plus wires connected in the holes on the back of the receptacle. At least one receptacle has a wire on every terminal, both screw and hole. My plan was to simply duplicate the connection setup on the old outlet receptacles with the new outlet receptacles. However, the new receptacles I purchased are 15 Amp receptacles, and the #12 wire doesn't fit in the hole terminals on back of the receptacle. I looked for 20 amp receptacles, but couldn't find any with hole terminals.

I read that 15 amp receptacles are OK on 20 amp circuits if it is a duplex receptacle, so is it OK [u]code-wise</u> to simply "bore-out" the hole connectors to fit the #12 wire... I would assume not, so, then, is it OK [u]code-wise</u> to "wire-cap" together all the related wires in the box and run only two "pigtailed" extensions to those outlets with more than four connections? Does pigtailing from a 20 amp circuit to a 15 amp receptacle like this meet NEC code?

Also, if "pigtailing" is OK, should I run #12 pigtails to the screw terminals of the new outlet receptacles or should I use #14 pigtails--because the new outlet receptacles are 15 amp?

I'm not sure how to proceed in a way that is safe and meets code. Plus, there is an additional level of complexity because some of the outlets I'm replacing are controlled by switches... but I'll save that for another question.

[mickey1943]

I have encountered the same problem and anxiously await an answer!!! I bored out the holes for #12 but will pigtail #14 if that is the requirement!!! Don't regulations make our lives so much easier??????

[Spark Chaser]

if it were me - I would run #12 pig tails and use the screws - It should present no problems for you.

[kactuskid]

If you're going through all the trouble to replace your receptacles it's a great thing you're asking how cause it saves haveing to do it over. First of all, NEVER use the little holes in the backs of receptacles. These are called backstabbed holes and are the souce of lots of loose connections, the manufactureers should actually remove these holes. Here's a link that gives more detail as to why NOT to use them: http://www.thisoldhouse.com/toh/know...098-9,00.html#

You can pigtail the wires together under a single wire nut using an 8" piece of same size wire for your pigtail, in your case 12 gauge wire. Never use a smaller gauge wire such as 14 on a 20 amp circuit. Here's a link that shows how to pigtail, scroll to the last picture on the page: http://www.danswiringpage.com/recepts_gfi.htm

Better yet than pigtailing is to buy a receptacle that is back-wired. These receptacles have holes in the back and are tightened down by the use of a clamp. This provides a secure connection. They are usually labled as a commercial outlet and can be bought at Home Depot. They are more expensive than the regular receptacles but well worth it, no pigtailing is usually needed cause there are 4 holes on each side to accomidate the wires. This also helps if the box is small cause pigtailing takes up room. Here's one last link that shows these, scroll to page 3 of the link to see the backs:

http://www.state-elec.com/Leviton/indreceptacles.pdf

And finally, it is code safe to install a 15 amp receptacle on a 20 amp circuit as they have a 20 amp feed thru feature. Also make sure that all receptacles in the following locations are GFCI protected: bathroom, kitchen couter-tops, garage, outdoor, crawl space and unfinished basement.

If any outlets are controlled by switches you'll need to make sure you take a good look at the receptacle prior to removing them. You'll notice a tab on the side of all new receptacles, this tab connects the 2 screws on the sides. You'll notice on the receptacles of yours that are controlled by a switch that this tab has been removed from the hot (brass) side of the receptacle only. This is how you need to configure your new receptacle when you replace it, make sure the tab is removed and that the appropriate wire goes to the appropriate screw.

Hope this helps and good luck to you.

[Cam]

quote:Originally posted by kactuskid

Hope this helps and good luck to you.

Yes, thanks kactuskid, you've answered my questions. I greatly appreciate it.
I'll look for the back-wired outlets, that would seem to be the best option.