Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

3-phase wiring with a standard outlet...?

Collapse

Forum Top GA Ad Widget

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • 3-phase wiring with a standard outlet...?

    Hello, All.

    I need some help with installing an electrical outlet in what I think is a 3-phase wiring situation.

    I live in a New York apartment building that was built in the 1980s (hardly new construction, but a mere child when compared with New York's pre-war buildings).

    I'd like to install an outlet next to my kitchen light switch by tapping the wiring already in the switch box. I've done this before without issue in several previous dwellings of varying ages, provided, of course, that the neutral wire is run through the box with the hot wire (not always the case around here...).

    However, this time when I opened the switch box, I found a black wire and a red wire connected to the switch (not unexpected), plus a BLUE wire and a SECOND black wire that loop through the switch box without interruption. There is no ground wire per se, but the box and conduit are grounded.

    After cutting and reconnecting the blue and 2nd black loops with wire-nuts, a volt meter confirmed that voltage between the blue wire and either of the black wires at approx. 117V, and voltage between the two black wires at approx. 205V. Based on loose info I've picked up over the years, I believe this indicates 3-phase wiring.

    Also, turning off the circuit breaker for the kitchen light definitely kills the light circuit, but there was still 117V between the blue and the 2nd black wire. In fact, even after turning off ALL circuit breakers in the apartment, there was still 117V between the 2nd black and the ground.

    Anyway, I connected a black pigtail to the black wire on the switch and a white tail to the blue wire, and then connected the tails to the new outlet. My volt meter reports correct voltage, and my outlet tester reports correct wiring (including polarity and ground test).

    So, finally, I plugged in a 6-outlet surge-protector, and then plugged into that a single 9-volt DC adapter for my kitchen phone. About 30-minutes later I heard that awful, rude electrical buzz/sizzle that can only mean something is burning up--and my nose confirmed it. Turned out to be the surge-protector.

    At first I thought maybe the surge protector had simply died (it was older anyway), so I replaced it with a spare, but the 2nd one also showed signs of distress within 5 minutes of being plugged in.

    Needless to say, I've removed all plugs from the new outlet until I can get a handle on what the situation is. Can anyone guess as to what the issue may be? Could I have a phase problem? Any and all suggestions will be greatly appreciated!

    Thanks!

    Dimarc67

  • #2
    Well, sounds like the supply originates from a 3 phase service BUT you do not necessisarily have " 3 phase" power in your apartment..
    What you did though is hook a receptacle across both "legs" of your service panel, so basically anything you plug in will get blasted with 208V and will soon "self incinerate". You need to have a white wire present in the box to connect a receptacle. If you were reading 120V with a meter from black to blue you were reading it THROUGH a load thats connected to neutral, that wasnt on at the time. Its kind of hard to picture I know but unless you can get a neutral to that location, you can't put an outlet there.
    A.D

    Comment


    • #3
      Thanks very much! A colleague of mine who passed the NEC a number of years ago (strictly for the fun of it) suggested I wire the outlet with one black lead for "hot" and a tail to the box for neutral. He said that pigtailing to the blue for neutral caused something he called "shunting".

      His solution sounds kind of fishy to me, but it also sounds about right by New York City "standards". Am I making sense, or should I stick to what I know?

      Thanks again for your help.

      Dimarc67

      Comment


      • #4
        What your "college" is proposing is very dangerous. Though neutral and ground are connected together at the main panel, the ground is not intended to provide a current path as the neutral conductor is. I sure hope he doesn't have a license, he is giving you very poor advice that could get someone electrocuted very easily. You do not have an available neutral wire in your switch box as it is wired up in a switch loop configuration. This means the neutral wire is at your light fixture. If you want to install a receptacle then you'll need to install a two conductor plus ground cable between your light fixture and the receptacle location.

        It's obvious that the other two wires in your switch box are just passing through and since your main breaker did not cut the power through these wires, I'm assuming that they may go to a different apartment than yours.

        You can use a piece of wiremold to install on the surface of the wall to install the cable between the fixture and the receptacle, then it can be painted to blend in, otherwise you'll have to fish it up inside the stud cavities.

        Comment


        • #5
          From what it sounds like, the wiring in the wall is in conduit, most likely "E.M.T". Depending on the number of wires present in the pipe already you MIGHT be able to pull a single "Neutral" down from the light or whatever box that conduit originates from to where you would like the receptacle. One word of advice, wiring like that is "commercial" and a box could have one neutral that is shared between 2 or 3 "hot" wires, depending on the type of system (supply) present. Should you proceed with this I think your best bet would be to tap off the light circuit for power, that way when you fish in your new neutral wire, you KNOW to tie it into the neutrals that serve the lights. One other thing, shut off ALL the power to your unit as well, That way you don't run the risk of opening up a neutral that is shared with other loads as well as your lights causing a "floating neutral" elsewhere in the unit. Treat all wires as if they are still live regardless if they aren't ( who knows how the place was wired!) and at your new receptacle, make sure you put a ground jumper between the receptacle and the box for code and for safety!

          A.D

          Comment


          • #6
            Thanks for the info. I'm very proud to say that I already did exactly what you just advised. The wiring between the switch and light fixture was run through standard 3/4" conduit, and, after several tries, I was able to push a white 12AWG wire up the conduit from the switch to the fixture (a 9' run with at least two bends, no less). Was able to make good clean connections for both neutral and box ground. New surge protector has been plugged in past 24 hours with no issue, so I think its done.

            ('Course, I tripled my labor by having to take down and reinstall the kitchen 4'-tube fluorescent light fixture, but what'd I expect, anyway??)

            Thanks, again, for the great advice.

            Dimarc67

            Comment


            • #7
              Seems odd that there would be three phase in ANY dwelling unit. At best would be a single phase with single phase passing through a box - another unsafe practice.
              If the service was a closed delta then the derived neutral would be the midpoint of one of the windings giving you odd voltages at the stinger leg.

              Comment

              Working...
              X