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110 from 220?


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  • 110 from 220?

    Hello. My husband and I are remodeling our kitchen. Part of the remodel is installing an over the range microwave. We have discovered that there is no outlet closeby for the microwave. The stove is hardwired in to 220. Is there a way we can tap in to the 220 wiring behind the stove and run a 110 outlet to the cabinets above where the microwave will be for power? If so, how? Thanks!

  • #2
    Absolutly NOT, you are not allowed to tap into your stove circuit OR any of your small appliance branch circuits either. You need to run a brand new dedicated 20 amp circuit to power the microwave. And, if you're installing a dishwasher or garbage disposal you also need to run another dedicated circuit to serve these appliances as well. There are lots of rules so it's good you asked. Write back with anymore questions you have too.


    • #3
      Besides the code issues, which I will allow others to explain the reasons behind, there is one practical reason why you cannot do this. If you have an older 3 wire connection to the stove, you have 2 hots, plus a ground OR a neutral, but you do not have BOTH. A pure 240 load like a water heater does not need a neutral. A stove or dryer uses a neutral because some motors and controls could then be 120V. Back then, they were allowed to use the neutral as the grounding conductor, because in a pure 240V circuit there is no current in the neutral. This has since been evaluated as not being safe, and all new circuits for stoves and dryers are 4 wire.


      • #4
        Wow! Thanks for the info. Glad I asked. I've read on other sites where we could possibly run wiring to one of the outlets and add an outlet for the microwave that way. Thoughts???


        • #5
          Well, don't believe everything you read on other sites. There are lots of folks that don't know the proper way to do things so you need to verify ALL information with your local code authorites to be sure.

          So, as mentioned in the first post, you are not allowed to tap into ANY of the small appliance branch circuits. So, you wonder what the definition of that is? Here's a quote from a link that'll give you all the information you need to follow when doing a major remodel such as you are doing. And, you need to be sure you follow ALL of the rules in order to be safe and within code. You also need to buy yourself a good book, such as the Black and Decker book on Home Wiring, it will show you lots of details to do the job properly.

          So, here's the quote from this link:

          "Small appliance branch circuit is any readily accessible receptacle installed in the kitchen, nook, dining, pantry rooms whether over the kitchen counter or not. 210.11.C.1 and 210.52.B Dishwashers are not allowed to be installed on the small appliance branch circuits. Garbage disposals are not allowed to be installed on the small appliance branch circuits. Sink luminaire or any other type of lighting are not allowed to be installed on the small appliance branch circuits. The exhaust fan over the range is not allowed to be installed on the small appliance branch circuits. Any of the following; any permanently mounted appliances such as a trash compactor, microwave in a microwave cabinet, etc. are not allowed to be installed on the small appliance branch circuits. Remember that a small appliance branch circuit is any convenience receptacle, anywhere within a kitchen, nook, dining, or pantry. 210.52.B and 210.11.C.1
          Last edited by kactuskid; 02-10-2006, 07:06 PM.


          • #6
            Well.... Time to make a call or two. How much should I expect to pay to have an additional outlet installed?


            • #7
              do it yourself and save a butt load

              depends on how much drywall damage you want if you want none then a lot, but if you dont care how much damage to the drywall less , but if thats the case id do it yourself. its really not that hard youll save a ton lets say you want three plugs on there own dedicated circuits micro/ dish / general duty depending on how far your panel is its probally gonna cost about 100.00 to 150.00 each circuit or plug and thats a very low estimate parts would probally be about 60 dollars for every thing


              • #8
                A 220 dedicated circuit can not be compromized into a 120 volt wiring system without adequate protection. First of all the line feeder is fused or set at 40 amps or more. Just tapping onto this line for an outlet would place the outlet at 40 amps - no circuit protection here. Besides a 20 amp line would be on 40 amps. Not too kewl!
                It makes more sense to leave the stove line alone and run a dedicated 20 amp line from the panelboard to the location.


                • #9
                  Kactuskid, I went to the website you mentioned in your reply and took a look around. I found this:

                  Would this solve our problem? I know you quoted the 2002 code, but it states that is for new dwellings.

                  I also found this:

                  Thanks again, guys (and gals if you're out there!). Sorry to be a pest, but want to make sure this will work.
                  Last edited by kattatonik; 02-10-2006, 10:28 PM.


                  • #10
                    Yes, the link referenced describes new dwelling requirements, and if you are remodeling your kitchen then your project now falls under the new dwelling requirements. Those links you posted tell how to tap off an existing receptacle, this is fine for area's such as a bedroom, a living room, garage, etc. But it IS NOT allowed on ANY small appliance branch circuit as described above. A microwave requires a substantial amount of power to operate and therefore requires it's own dedicated 20 amp circuit. You are looking for a work around and that's all well and fine, but in this case there is no alternative but to install the dedicated circuit, it's as simple as that.


                    • #11
                      Minimiziing wall damage....

                      To help on that, get a good stud finder. THere are types that will even locate other stuff in that wall. Not fun to drill into a copper pipe, or worse...copper wire! To get the hole drilled through the upper/lower wall plates, there are neat drill bits available for this. Poke around the electric section at a box store and see what they have. They're about 4' long with an aggressive drill shape at one end. There's a hole at each end for attaching a wire or cord to to help thread it through the drilled hole. Neat stuff. After you cut where you want the outlet, snake that drill bit down/up through the wall and drill away. Directions are are the drill when you buy it.


                      • #12
                        Ok... Everyone at ease. I called a pro and he's going to wire the outlet for me for about $150. Thanks to all for your advise.


                        • #13
                          Good for you, you're doin the right thing. Thanks for letting us know and ask back anytime.