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  • Installing electrical outlet

    I would like to install an outlet in an electrical box that is currently just covered with a safty plate. Everything I have read tells me where to put the black (hot) wire and the white wire. However, in this box there are two sets of black, white, and red wires. I have read a little on switches and know that the red wires are used for those, but how do I use this install my outlet? I have an image, but I couldn't get it to insert into the post. I would be happy to e-mail it to anyone willing to help.
    Thank you!

  • #2
    Ingabird,

    Where is the box located? Do you have an item in mind that will be using this new outlet regularly. Do you know which circuit breaker this cable comes from?

    If the box is in a closet it should not be turned into a plug. If the item you are going to use in the new plug has a large draw you need to see if you are going to be overloaded that circuit. What you are looking at is a junction box that is probably feeding some split outlets, a dryer or electric range.

    You can email the picture to me and I'll post it. handy@eastlineweb.com

    Good luck, Jim

    'Just a handyman trying to help'
    'Just a handyman trying to help'

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    • #3
      The box is on an open wall in my living room, and it's about 5 feet off the ground so it was probably a switch at one time. I just want to put a lamp there for right now, but it's a strance place to run an extension cord to from another outlet. I do not know which circuit it's on, but one of the pipes continues on to the next outlet in the room. I think the other goes on to the overhead lights. There is a switch for the lights on the other side of the room. The only 220 outlet in the house is in my room where there used to be a kiln. That is on a seperate circuit from the rest. There are five apartments on this property, and I'm not even sure where the circuit box is. (Yes, I have my landlord's permission to do this. )

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      • #4
        Here's a pic that might help:

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        • #5
          Ingabird,

          The picture above shows black to red and red to black. Is this how it really is? If so you can do the following steps using the white pair and one of the black/red pairs, leave the other black/red pair alone.

          Okay, so the only problem I see is that you will not be able to turn this circuit off at the panel to work on it. If you are careful (use insulated tools and/or wear gloves) it is not a problem. The easiest thing to do would be to:

          *First if possible turn the circuit off

          1) pull the black wires and the white wires out of the box a bit.
          2) remove the 'marr' connector from the white (nuetral) wires.
          3) with insulated needlenose pliers separate the two whites.
          4) in each wire put a small curl in the bare wire (again use the needlenose). There should be approx. 3/4" bare wire.
          5) attach each white to the terminals on the right side of the new outlet. Loop the wire so that it wraps around the screw in a clock-wise direction.
          6) repeat steps 2-5 with the black (hot) wires. Attaching them the the two terminals on the left of the outlet
          7) using electrical tape wrap the outlet so that the terminals are covered.
          8) secure the new outlet in the box and install the face plate.

          ** if you were able to turn the circuit off, turn it back on now.

          9) test the new outlet and any outlets or lights that were connected further down the cable.

          Good luck, Jim

          'Just a handyman trying to help'
          'Just a handyman trying to help'

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          • #6
            It works! Thanks so much. I found the switchbox outside and turned it off, and I was glad I did. The wires were difficult to work with because they were short, but it all worked out in the end. I really appriciate your help. This is a great site!

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            • #7
              How many outlets does the code allow on a single circuit.

              Sam Weaver

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              • #8
                Sam.

                I am not aware of any code restrictions. To be absolutely sure you should put a call into you local building inspector or a local licensed electrician.

                There is no physical limitation to the number of outlets on a circuit. If you have 20 outlets on one 15 amp breaker it is not going to be a problem until someone overloads it, which is more likely with a large # of outlets. If you have a special need to have flexibility in the location of outlets you can have them every foot around a room if you wanted.

                You may want to consider runnig a 'split' circuit around a heavy use area. In which case you could have the top outlet at each wallplate on one breaker and the bottom outlet on another.

                Hope this helps, Jim

                'Just a handyman trying to help'
                'Just a handyman trying to help'

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                • #9
                  The number of general use receptacles on a single circuit is governed by a calculation: 15 amp = 120v x 15 amps = 1800 VA/180 =10 receptacles..... 20 amp = 120V x 20 amps = 2400 VA/180 = 13 receptacles. IF portable appliances are used on these circuits , then the 80 % rule applies. If this rule is applied,then a maximum would be 8 on a 15 amp, and 10 on a 20 amp. In the states the NEC does NOT have a specific rule that says the EXACT maximum amount of receptacles on a general use circuit, other than using the above calculations. The use or non-use of the 80 % rule would be at the dicretion of an Inspector, before the actual installation is started.. Hube

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                  • #10
                    Hube,

                    Thanks for the post, I had never seen/heard of that formula. I did a further web search and found this info from Boyce A. Smith ...

                    "Electrical Circuits

                    My definition of an electrical system is:

                    A group of electrical circuits designed to safely provide electric power to any anticipated loads in that system.

                    The circuits should be installed in a safe workman like manner.

                    Each branch circuit must meet NEC requirements in determining the computed loads:

                    The number of receptacles in the system are determined by the locations of the receptacles. Each receptacle is rated at 180 va. A receptacle must be located within 6 feet of any wall area measured along the baseboard including around corners. This means the cord of an appliance in the center of a 12 foot span would be able to reach a receptacle either direction. There must be a receptacle within any wall space 2 foot of more. There must be a ground fault receptacle in any bathroom. There must be ground fault receptacles within any 4 feet of kitchen counter top and do not install face up. There must be two ground fault receptacles outside, one in front and one in back. There must be one ground fault receptacle in the garage area. There must be one receptacle circuit in the utility room for the washer.

                    Branch Circuit Calculations:

                    Section 220–3(c)(6). The NEC does not have a specific rule that says 10 receptacles on a 15 ampere circuit or 13 receptacles on a 20 ampere circuit. For 15 ampere circuits, the calculation is as follows: 120 volts x 15 amperes = 1800 VA/180 VA = 10 receptacles, and for 20 ampere circuits, 120 volts x 20 amperes = 2400 VA/180 VA = 13 receptacles. Many people think that when calculating the number of receptacles the load should be reduced by 80%, but this is not the case! Yes, the NEC limits the load on receptacle circuits to 80% for portable appliances [210–23(a)] and, yes, the maximum continuous load on a branch circuit shall not exceed 80% of the circuit rating (protection device) [220–3(a) and 384–16(c)], but these rules don't apply to the number of receptacles per circuit. I wish the NEC were more specific, but it's not.
                    There are many Articles that apply to branch circuits, such as 210; Overcurrent Protection, 240; Wiring Methods, 300; Conductors, 310; Appliances, 422; Electric Space Heating Equipment, 424; Motors, 430; and Air-Conditioning, 440.

                    A summary of Article 220 branch circuit rules is as follows:

                    Voltage for calculation shall be 120, 120/240, 208Y/120, 240, 480Y/277, and 480 [220–2(a)]. When a combination of continuous and noncontinuous loads are present, the branch circuit conductor is sized based on 125% of the continuous load and 100% of the noncontinuous load [220–3(a)]. Branch circuits to inductive lighting must be sized according to the VA rating, not the wattage rating [220–3(c)(3)]. The number of receptacles permitted on a branch circuit for commercial occupancies is based on 180 VA per receptacle [220–3(c)(6)]. The minimum number of branch circuits is determined from the total connected load. Example: An 1,800-square-foot house requires 3–15 ampere circuits for general lighting and receptacles, calculated as follows: 1800 x 3 VA = 5,400 VA/(120 volts x 15 amperes) = 3 circuits [220–4(a)]. A minimum of two 20-ampere branch circuits are required for dwelling unit countertop receptacles [220–4(b)]. A minimum of one 20 ampere circuit is required for dwelling unit laundry receptacle outlet(s) [220–4(c)]. General lighting and receptacles loads must be evenly distributed between the branch circuits [220-4(d)]. Branch circuit calculations for ranges, cooktops and ovens are according to Section 220-19 Note 4 in conjunction with Section 210-19(b). There are many Articles that apply to branch circuits, such as 210; Overcurrent Protection, 240; Wiring Methods, 300; Conductors, 310; Appliances, 422; Electric Space Heating Equipment, 424; Motors, 430; and Air-Conditioning, 440."

                    Jim

                    'Just a handyman trying to help'
                    'Just a handyman trying to help'

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