Old Wiring, Don't Have Much Money

[DKAudio]

I have opened up and replaced a few overhead lights. I noticed that the insulation on the wires was cracking and flaking. The house was built in 1954 and uses flexible BX through out. I would like to replace the wire but don't want to rip into the sheetrock everywhere. I also would like to install one of my lighting panels from my work. They use CAT5 switches on a network and switch relays in a central panel. This would just be for overhead lights and nothing else. This would mean running new wire from each load to the panel and then running CAT5 from every switch (taking out the HV). I would just bring 12AWG from my breaker panel to the lighting panel. Is there a way to do that effeciently? I think all the wire is run in the attic and then down. One of my electritian friends said to just leave the wire. Since the relays just make or brake hot, can I nut all the nuetrals and grounds together or should I use a terminal rail? There will be around 16 total loads so I know I cannot nut that many together (I think 4 or 5 is the limit). He said that the stuff in the BX is probably fine because it has never been touched/bent since it was intalled. Finally, does anyone have a link to electrical codes? I cannot find anything online. Thanks.

[HayZee518]

spend the 65 bucks and get a copy from the NFPA in Boston or see your electrical supply house.
Far as the existing wiring in the house - the wires in the walls haven't flexed so they're ok. At fixture locations and lighting locations if they've been flexed much, you'll notice flaking of insulation. The older thermal insulation was basically a rubber compound not plastic like nowadays. Adding ceiling heat and radiated heat from bulbs makes the rubber brittle. you may be able to sleeve them with shrinkable tubing.

[HayZee518]

what do you want to know for code?

[DKAudio]

Yeah, I put heat shrink over a few of them already. I just want to know basic house wiring codes. My work has a NEC book but it is huge, I haven't even looked at it yet.

Some questions are...

How many wires in certain wire nuts?

Need to attach wire to studs how often?

Must have 6" of wire in junction boxes, correct?

Basic things like that.

Thanks

[kactuskid]

The best thing for you to do is to buy the Black and Decker book to Home Wiring. It'll tell you all the basics and how toos of home wiring and will help you out a ton.

As for how many wires per wirenut, the packaging of the specific wirenuts will tell you how many of each wire gauge is acceptacle under these particular nuts. They vary a bit depending on manufacturer. Take a look at the following link for Ideal wirenuts. I prefer the Wingnut design, makes it easier to get em on tight. Click on wingnut on the link and you'll see how many are allowed under each color nut.

http://www.idealindustries.com/wt/TwistOnWireConnectors.nsf

Wiring cable needs to be attached every 4 feet and within 8 inches of every box. And yes, a minimum of 6 inches of wire inside every box. Here's another link that'll help with the rough wiring you'll be doing, but again, that B&D book on Home Wiring will have all this info for you.

http://www.rd.com/familyhandyman/content/18131

[DKAudio]

This is what I am most curious about...

I also would like to install one of my lighting panels from my work. They use CAT5 switches on a network and switch relays in a central panel. This would just be for overhead lights and nothing else. This would mean running new wire from each load to the panel and then running CAT5 to all the switches (taking out the HV). I would just bring 12AWG from my breaker panel to the lighting panel. Since the relays just make or brake hot, can I nut all the nuetrals and grounds together or should I use a terminal rail? There will be around 16 total loads so I know I cannot nut that many together (I think 4 or 5 is the limit).

Finally, the lighting panel would just go for the basement overhead lights, would you just leave the old BX on the main floor since the only bad stuff would be

[HayZee518]

The low voltage signaling circuits you are referring to fall under Article 725 in the NEC. The minimum conductor size is 18 gauge according to the book. CAT 5 is too small! The relay panel shall be adjacent to the panelbox and the conductors supplying loads no smaller than #12. Lampholders shall be rated at 660 watts.

[DKAudio]

The CAT5 only carries low voltage (12VDC) to talk in a network with the lighting panel. All the relays are 20A but the most they will switch is 600W so I was hoping for 14AWG

[HayZee518]

I'm just quoting what the code book says - whatever voltage you are running STILL falls under the NEC for remote circuits low voltage circuits. Specifically remote circuits 50 volts and under AC or DC

[DKAudio]

hmm, that seams weird because the whole lighting control industry uses CAT5 for their data networks. We install all over the US. Should I nut or use a buss for the nuetrals and grounds. Does the lighting panel need to be exactly next to the circuit breaker panel? I was hoping to put it in a central location for ease of and cost of wiring. Thanks

[DKAudio]

Well, I just found out that most of the house appears to be aluminum wire! I don't see how that can be since the house was built in 1954. All the wire that is cracking appears to be the aluminum stuff. Now what do I do? It is all in the flexible BX stuff. I assume it is stapled to the studs so I cannot replace it with romex without tearing into the walls. I am very frustrated.

[DKAudio]

Here is what I am dealing with, I tried to scratch off some on the neutral to see if it is copper color or still silver...

[HayZee518]

OK, data circuits have a section in the newer code books. data cable under floors in walls and above suspended ceilings fall under a special section in the book. I worked on a project where low voltage signals were sent to remote dimmers for wall washing and mood lighting. The dimmers were adjacent to the panelbox, the dimmer controls were about 100 feet away at a desk. wiring was 18-2 plenum rated wire. Job was inspected by a massachusetts qualified inspector.

[DKAudio]

Ok, thanks, any idea on my al. wiring? Do I have to tear into walls?

[HayZee518]

Aluminum wire that hasn't been touched a.ak.a. in the walls doesn't need to be serviced. Aluminum at the outlets needs to be addressed. copper-clad aluminum offers better conductivity at the outlets and switches and if the installer torqued the screws there should be no problem. also a suitable anti-oxidants should have been used. outlets should be marked al-cu. those without the al-cu shouln't be used with aluminum. Aluminum flexed too much can break within a cable sheath without any visible signs.