GFCI outlet placement

[toddwhill]

How can I tell which outlet in a circuit is the FIRST in line (thus giving me the proper placement for the GFCI outlet)?

Thanks,

Todd

[HayZee518]

I don't understand this. but if you want outlets to be gfci protected downstrean from a given location, then the gfci will be your first receptacle. the rest come off the bottom two screws of the gfci and will be protected. use the stickers on the downstream outlets to indicate this.

[toddwhill]

GFCI placement

The question I have is "how do I know which receptacle is the 'first' in line when there are 5 on the same circuit?

MUCH appreciated!!!

[Joseph]

What I do is:

1) Trip breaker at panel.
2) Return to all outlets and test with multimeter to ensure no power.
3) Physically remove all outlets from boxes.
4) Ensure wires are sticking straight out away from anything combustible or anything that would result in a short (metal box, etc).
5) Reset breaker at panel.
6) Using a multimeter, probe each set of wires until you have power, that one is first in the chain and is where you place the GFCI outlet.
7) Trip breaker at panel.
8) Return to live wires as found in step 6 and test with multimeter to ensure no power.
9) At location found in step 6, install GFCI outlet.
10) Replace all other outlets.
11) Reset breaker at panel.
12) Reset, Test and Reset the GFCI outlet (they usually come tripped for safety reasons) .
13) Test for power at each outlet.

Done!


Keep in mind that you can wire a GFCI outlet incorrectly.
There are two sets of lugs (Screws). One is marked "LINE" and the other is marked "LOAD."
"LINE" is connected to the incoming power (the two we found in step 6).
"LOAD" is where you connect the set that continues the circuit from there.

Also note that the lugs are color coded as are the wires. The lugs are brass and silver.
The "Hot (Black)" wire should be connected to the "Brass" lug and the "Neutral (White)” wire should be connected to the "Silver" lug.



Good Luck!



Joseph

[Joseph]

Safety First!

An even safer way is to use one of those EMF sniffers instead of the multimeter.


Joseph

[Meffy]

An even safer way is to use one of those EMF sniffers instead of the multimeter.

When it became clear I'd have to do a fair amount of electrical work on our "new" old house, I picked up a Greenlee combo that includes a cheap digital multimeter, a non-contact voltage sensor like the one you mention, and a simple outlet wiring checker (unfortunately, without a GFCI test button). That little non-contact thingummy is great, I love it to bits. When I bought it I thought it might be over-indulgent but now I'm convinced it's an essential tool.

[HayZee518]

Just be careful with the non contact tester - it will give false readings especially where there is a multi conductor circuit. that is why I always trust an amprobe and an analog tester.

[Meffy]

I've had false positives (when moving the detector around where no wires were present) but never a false negative. Will keep an eye out for this. Then again, I use it almost exclusively to ensure that, yes, I really did flip the correct breaker. And our house is small, has very simple wiring. (A good thing, too, as with my bad leg I'm not able easily to crawl around in the crawlspace and unfinished attic. Simple and easy = comparatively quick, yay.)

[Joseph]

While the non-contact probes are definitely safer from a "You don't have to touch live wires" standpoint. I prefer to trust in insulators and use a digital multimeter (wish I had a Fluke). My Radio Shack Special (Micronta) does the job pretty well, but not as fast as a Fluke.

I feel that while it's a little more risky (broken down insulator) I like the assurance that direct reading gives me.

When considering "Safety First," one has many perspectives from which to judge. Decide what makes you feel more comfortable and go with it, just make sure it's an "Informed Decision."


Joseph

[Joseph]

Just be careful with the non contact tester - it will give false readings especially where there is a multi conductor circuit.

Your correct Meffy!

While it’s true that you'll get false readings, the error is to the side of caution.

When there’s power on adjacent conductors you’ll only get an indication of power on the conductors you’re testing, but never an indication of no power.

Unless of course the non-contact EMF sniffer is faulty, but then that could also happen with the contact variety!

So the lesson here is to always properly maintain, test and calibrate your test equipment.


Joesph

[Meffy]

I always check on a known live circuit beforehand, to be sure the tester's responding. (And turned on in the first place.)

[ElectricGuy]

good point HayZee518

I agree, I've gotten plenty of false readings with those "non-contact" testers