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  • combination 3 switch help

    I bought a Leviton combination 3 switch yesterday from Home Depot. I needed something smaller because I tiled a back splash and the old 3 single switches and plate cover extend beyond my tile edge. Of course, there are no instructions with this new combination switch. It will be controlling 3 overhead lights (kitchen, garage and outside lights). 2 of the old single switches have black, white and red wires connected to them and the other switch has black and black wires. I assume that is because 2 are running off the same circuit breaker.

    The new combo 3 switch has 3 silver screw posts on one side, 1 black screw post on the opposite side and 1 green screw post on the back of the switch.

    I realize that these will all be from the same circuit now and thats fine, but I am confused about which posts do the wires (black, red, white) go on. Also, what wires to I "cap off" in the box?

    Thanks in advance,
    Dan"

  • #2
    please explain further. I can see the wiring for the single pole units but you threw me with the three way. what do you mean by a combo three switch? two three ways on a common yoke? three three ways on a common yoke? which?? three single pole switches on a common yoke?

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    • #3
      Here are some pics of the new switch. The name on the package was "Leviton Combination 3 Switch". I had a feeling that confused people...

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      • #4
        OK, that is a Leviton "DECORA" switch with one common feed to all three single pole switches. all white wires in your switchbox will go together - one from the "hot" cable one from each "load" device [4 wires] From your "hot" cable a black wire to the single screw on one side of the switch. Each load wire red or black will go to one screw for each device or combination of fixtures. write me back if you have further questions

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        • #5
          I dont know if it matters, but 2 of the light switches are "3 way switches". I dont know why I left out that important detail??? Are your intructions still the same?

          Thanks.

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          • #6
            ok, this changes things quite a bit. if you can photograph the box and its wires I can draw up in detail a diagram for you to follow. please attach the pix as a jpg file

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            • #7
              first of all you have what appears to be a three gang switchbox because there were three switches in it. one of the switches you say was a single pole unit and the other two are three ways. the switch you purchased won't work. you also stated that after you finished your tile, the switches extend beyond the box opening, possibly to the point the fastening screws don't hold very much. you can purchase 6-32 screws longer than what was provided to fasten your switches. by how much do the switches stick out?

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              • #8
                here is what I have. From the pics, you can see what I mean about extending beyond the tile.

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                • #9
                  why didn't you loosen up the switches and tile right up to the screws instead of cutting around the yokes? anyway easy fix. go to an electrical supply house and I don't mean home depot or lowes and get a THREE GANG SWITCH GOOF PLATE. The goof plate is a common term. It is bigger around the edges and will almost cover your mistakes.

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                  • #10
                    from the looks of things, you could just pop off the four tiles and cut closer to the wall opening and the screws on the switches.

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                    • #11
                      I was hesitant to post that pic to avoid the following explaination....

                      The plate I have does cover everything, but it extends beyond the tile edge by 1 inch. I could have tiled all the way to the door trim, but it would not match up with the counter tops which are also tiled. The countertop ends at that left edge. I put wood trim around the countertops and a back splash that extends beyond that will look tacky. Also, the backsplash on the other side of the door ends at the same distance from the trim. I initially hoped that I could just move the switches side by side with no gaps and get a plate cover that is smaller...but no joy at Lowes / Home Depot. I will tile around the switches, but I need to fix the switch problem first. Maybe I can just move the whole junction box right a few inches, put some drywall up and re-tile that edge? Maybe one of the other hardware stores has something to avoid all this.

                      If you ever tile around switches or outlets, I dont recommend covering up the yokes. You may have to break off tiles if you need to replace the switch/outlet. Also, you will need to put "spacers" behind the yokes so the switch / outlet will be flush with the plate cover. Buts thats for another forumn.. Haha.

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                      • #12
                        ok, there is no code that specifically states switch or outlet spacing in a box, but for safety you wouldn't want to cram switches or outlets that close together. switchplates are not made smaller to do what you want. you may be able to get a decora switch assembly with two three ways on one yoke and eliminate one switch position. go to the leviton site - I'm sure you'll find one there - look for leviton and decora devices.
                        Look to this url: Leviton Decora Switches, Receptacles & Controls
                        Last edited by HayZee518; 07-08-2008, 09:03 PM. Reason: added url

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