Floor doesn't meet the wall.

[BuzzStPoint]

In my kitchen redo. ( I started a few years ago)

I ripped out some plaster and lattice work in a portion of the kitchen, and replaced the door.

When I did this. I ripped out some fiberboard, plaster and the lattice work. This left a large gap in the floor.
This escaped me when I was putting up the sheet rock. I replaced the door, added insulation and put the sheet rock up. Then textured and painted the wall.
Now since I'm off of work and have plenty of time. How can I correct this error short of ripping out the sheet rock adding furring strips and redoing the wall again. I would have to redo the door as well.

Any comedic ideas?
The gap is about 1 1/4 slightly larger in some areas.


I've added a few pics, to show you my issue.
Since it's just in the cloak area and door, I thought about a wood laminate section, but don't know if that would look good in a partial section on the kitchen floor.

[mrcaptainbob]

Floor issue.....

I would cut the flooring along the grout line nearest the wall and remove the flooring in that area. Make sure it's a razor sharp cut and as straight as possible. Replace it with a wood laminate type flooring. Pick a color to match the floor. It would look like it was wood framed from the tile to the wall. For the wall, the standard mop board molding would cover any deficiencies there, as it's usually around four to five and a half inches tall. And if you're really ambitious, do that wood floor 'trim' all around the room perimeter to appear as an intended 'frame' of sorts.

[pushkins]

If you install baseboard trim and a shoe molding trim to that area it should cover almost all of that gap, standard aseboard will get you 1/2" and standard shoe molding will get you 1/2". You will need to cut out that spray foam so everything sits in nice and snug. A small bead of like colored caulk to the floor would cover any remaining gap in those areas bigger, or use a thicker profile base and shoe moldings.
In some cases (historic homes for example) they used 6" tall x 3/4" baseboard with a 2" x 3/4" shoe molding, I've even seen some with three steps.

PS: you will need to install your door trim work first before doing any base trim.

[BuzzStPoint]

If you install baseboard trim and a shoe molding trim to that area it should cover almost all of that gap, standard aseboard will get you 1/2" and standard shoe molding will get you 1/2". You will need to cut out that spray foam so everything sits in nice and snug. A small bead of like colored caulk to the floor would cover any remaining gap in those areas bigger, or use a thicker profile base and shoe moldings.
In some cases (historic homes for example) they used 6" tall x 3/4" baseboard with a 2" x 3/4" shoe molding, I've even seen some with three steps.

PS: you will need to install your door trim work first before doing any base trim.

Thanks guys, Sorry for the delay. I think I'll put up 4" base, stop then shoe molding. Seen a pic of it and it looked alright. Might even skip the stop if it covers the gaps.

Today I just put up my case molding around the doors with Rosette and plinth Blocks.

Edit:
I'll post a pick later but I have 2 doors 8 inch a part. One door is 1.5 inch lower then the other and at an angle, If I follow the door the trim will be uneven,. But if I level the 2 door trims, then there's a huge gap below the trim as you can see in the pic. What to do with this?

Eventually There will be a 6 panel door like the left door. Thinking on just putting some 1/4 inch panel and paint wall color till I get a new door in there.