Need HELP with Floor prep

[tmy23]

Greetings and thanks in advance for all help!!!

I am rehabbing our kitchen, cabinets have arrived, and I need to level, more accurately "flatten" the floor. Our home is 125 years old, the current kitchen floor is 6" wide oak tongue and groove planks, with no subfloor. It was a 15' span and I originally was considering tile so I installed a beam in the basement to halve the span, and I screwed every plank down solid, every 16" at each floor joist. Since that time we have switched to laminate "hardwood", i.e. a floating floor. So currently the floor is tight and firm. Although I tried to lift the sagging joists as much as possible when installing the beam, there is still a maximum 1/2" valley in places.

I want to flatten this prior to installation. I was originally recommended to use planipatch and fill and screed fill the valleys. I called the manufacturer and they recommended against because the product isn't recommended for plank flooring. He said it would release.

Others have told me to layer tar paper, but 1/2" seems like a lot of tar paper? I wanted to avoid Self leveling compounds because the old planks have a lot of gaps and the material will seek into the basement, plus I really only want to fill the valleys, not raise the whole floor.

I am open to ALL recommendations!!!!

Thanks

Tom

[pushkins]

What your trying to do is a very difficult fix in your circumstances. Normally the floor would be raised via a new support beam and at this point the floor joists would be leveled, this is kinda problematic as it puts a tremendous amount of stress on walls and upper levels, especially plaster walls etc... and needs to be done over a period of day or weeks depending on just how much it needs to raise.
In your case I think your best off laying a layer of tar paper down over the entire floor, then applying the floor leveler over the tar paper. The paper will stop any loss into the basement of the leveler. You only have to apply the leveler to areas you know need fill, the tar paper is still a good idea to help with moisture vapor from the basement.

[delthorconstruction]

I would use webcrete 95 it is able to be feather edged to nothing and will not send gohst images of it through the floor especially if you went with vynal flooring later. I am a general contractor and this is just my 2 cents.

[Ronald Parker]

Greetings and thanks in advance for all help!!!

I am rehabbing our kitchen, cabinets have arrived, and I need to level, more accurately "flatten" the floor. Our home is 125 years old, the current kitchen floor is 6" wide oak tongue and groove planks, with no subfloor. It was a 15' span and I originally was considering tile so I installed a beam in the basement to halve the span, and I screwed every plank down solid, every 16" at each floor joist. Since that time we have switched to laminate "hardwood", i.e. a floating floor. So currently the floor is tight and firm. Although I tried to lift the sagging joists as much as possible when installing the beam, there is still a maximum 1/2" valley in places.

I want to flatten this prior to installation. I was originally recommended to use planipatch and fill and screed fill the valleys. I called the manufacturer and they recommended against because the product isn't recommended for plank flooring. He said it would release.

Others have told me to layer tar paper, but 1/2" seems like a lot of tar paper? I wanted to avoid Self leveling compounds because the old planks have a lot of gaps and the material will seek into the basement, plus I really only want to fill the valleys, not raise the whole floor.

I am open to ALL recommendations!!!!

Thanks

Tom

Hi,

Sometimes when installing underlayment on your sub floor, or installing a hardwood floor directly to your sub floor you will come across high spots in your sub floor where two pieces of plywood sheets come together. You must sand these flat before laying down your new flooring. If you don't, you will transfer this peak in the floor to your new floor, causing a host of problems. A good belt sander is recommended to do the job.

Kitchen cabinets’ sizings are standard. Compared to custom or semi-customed cabinetry, you will be much more limited in the colour and styles available. Most of them offer drawer and simple cabinet stylings, and are generally made of inexpensive materials which are perfect in new home construction.

[AcademyHardwood]

Hola

Would have to see it in person to make a comment