Tile under cabinets

[rroberson]

I would like to redo the tile in my kitchen. I noticed that the whole room is tiled and the cabinets were installed on top of the tile. Should I remove the cabinets to completley remove all of the old tile? Or should I just remove the tile along the cabinet line and butt the new tile up against it. If I go this route I wouldnt think it would look clean. Maybe some quarter round?

[pushkins]

Removing the cabinets to remove and reinstall tile would create more problems than it's worth, if you were going to remodel the kitchen then it would be the best option. Not only do you have the problem of actually removing some cabinets like sink base etc... you need to either remove the counter tops or support them, this usually never ends pretty
Remove the tile as right up to the base of the cabinet and use quarter round as a cover of any finishing problems.

[Kman]

The few times I've done this, I've used an air chisel or demolition hammer. Since the foot of the cabinets was 3/4" thick, I was able to chip out the tile and thinset just underneath the cabinet foot. This allowed me to cut the new tile so that it would fit just underneath without the edge of the tile showing at all. As mentioned before, you can still use some 1/4 round if you can't get underneath the cabinets.

I would advise you to use plastic and masking tape to cover the doorways out of the area where you are taking up the tile. Use leather gloves, safety glasses, and a dust mask during the demo period. Those tile shards are like broken glass and will cut anything that touches them. Open all the windows if possible, and keep a fan blowing out the window to keep the dust down. Wetting the work area a little bit also keeps the dust to a minimum.

[rroberson]

I appreciate both responses. I guess I will try to under cut the cabinets a little bit and go that route. If that doesnt work I'll just do the quarter round. What tool did you use to under cut the cabinets. Also, if I have to use quarter round, should I just nail into the cabinet or use some type of glue. Thx in advance.

[Kman]

As the air chisel chips the tile up toward the cabinet, I just let it work it's way under the toe kick 1/4-3/8", just enough room to get the edge of the new tile under there. The wider the chisel is, the easier the job will be.

Just nail the 1/4 round into the toe kick.

[BMBLBEE]

As an alternative to 1/4 round you might also consider cutting tiles and covering the toe kick with tile. It's a little extra effort but the finished result will look great.

[pushkins]

Any grout used on the toe kick will crack unless you use backer board attached to the toe kick prior to installation of tiles.

[BMBLBEE]

Any grout used on the toe kick will crack unless you use backer board attached to the toe kick prior to installation of tiles.

When I used tile for the toe kick on my basement kitchen and bath cabinets 3 years ago I used a thin layer of thinset on the MDF toe kick and buttered the back of the tiles when I installed them on the toe kick. So far the grout has not cracked. Our main floor kitchen and all the other baths were done the same way 20 years ago and are still hanging in there with no problems. Would you suggest some 1/4 inch cement board as the backer board?

[Kman]

Unless it's really battered with some steel-toe shoes, the tile probably won't crack. The grout may crack if the MDF ever gets wet.

Most definitely though, the joint between the tile on the toe kick and the tile on the floor needs to be caulked with a color-matched grout caulk.

If I planned on installing to the toe kick, I would probably get some 1x's and replace the MDF with it. A modified tile will stick to the pine, and nobody's going to be walking on it.

[pushkins]

Would you suggest some 1/4 inch cement board as the backer board?

Yes, glue on with a good quality construction adhesive 1/4" backer board, then install tiles and grout. Like mentioned in the previous post make sure you use a color matched caulk (available at Lowe's/HD in the tile department) to fill the transition between horizontal and vertical tiles.

If your going to the effort to remove original toe kicks only to replace with pine, why not simply glue and nail or screw 1/4" backer board to the existing toe kick. Backer board is specifically made to accommodate installation of tile and grout and the expansion / contraction differences between cement products and wood.

[Kman]

If your going to the effort to remove original toe kicks only to replace with pine, why not simply glue and nail or screw 1/4" backer board to the existing toe kick. Backer board is specifically made to accommodate installation of tile and grout and the expansion / contraction differences between cement products and wood.

Certainly not a bad idea, but 1x pine would hold up much better than MDF, especially if exposed to water. Sometimes the toe kicks on cheaper cabinet are not more than 3/8" thick, and some are even made of particle board.

We know that a tile installation whether on the floor or wall is only as good as the substrate, and a poor backing, whether installed with backer board or a direct bond, will result in installation failure.