Shower Stall pan crack and resulting leak

[earthworm]

A crack in the floor pan of my newly acquired $1.98 cheapie shower stall..
Quite possibily from a big-box...
The epoxy repair was not successful - there is too much (IMO) give here.
Help
What next ?

[HayZee518]

back to square one. remove the surround first then the pan - get a new one. next coat the entire floor area where the pan goes with minimum expanding foam and set the pan right in the foam. tighten the drain basket in the drain. let the foam cure and re-assemble your shower surround. the curing foam will provide support for the entire pan.

[earthworm]

Thanks...
Do you use heat to soften the caulking, or do you just cut ?
This will be one huge task.
Good fortune I will need..
I have read where sand is used, but this is a shower atop 2 by 6s at 24" specs from 100 years ago, before bathrooms for the working poor even existed..
So the poly-foam, min-expanding is a godsend..
And, the pan, I do not think, is Fiberglas, but a cheaper acrylic plastic ...the $1.98 comment of mine..

[HayZee518]

Sand and portland cement is used with a 3/8" screen opening tamped into place with a hammer and 2x4. but this is only with a membrane type shower pan. tiles would normally go over this with a thinset. a one piece shower pan which is what you have would be the only thing to go there. also, as you described the crack occured in an acryllic pan. some better pans have a fiber embedded in the acryllic plastic. pure sand will settle creating voids. minimum expanding foam will adhere to the subfloor and the pan bottom and when it cures essentially the pan will become part of the floor. you ever try to cut cured foam? 3/4 osb on joists 24 on center is kinda stretching the support. I'd rather go 16 on center just for the support then do the subfloor. I built a shower pan in my house using 2x10 and spaced 16 on center. but I do have tiles over a membrane shower pan.
silicone sealant can be softened with common vinegar and cleaned up with acetone. caulk dries out but heat from a hair dryer will soften it up so you can scrape it off.

[earthworm]

Ha!, HayZee, I should have bought your house...Seriously, save all the data on your improvements, the next owner should appreciate this.
Thanks for the interest, so far, so good with this forum, and I hope that I can be of help..as I have been at SaabCentral....a little...

[HayZee518]

I try! I been with this forum since July of 2004 when I just stumbled upon it as you did. Troy started this in 2002. They got me as moderator in the electrical and hvac [monitor heater] sub directory. I re-plumbed my whole house waste system and all the water lines are copper with sweat joints. I built onto the house a 15ft by 17 ft, story and a half addition with a four foot poured foundation. Everything else here is on a concrete block foundation, field stone and rock ledge.

[earthworm]

Probably the "wrong" place for this...
Isn't 4 feet an "overkill" ?
Is there a basement under your addition ?
Basements...........
My favorite house area, if the basement is done correctly.
Cool in the winter (without deliberate heat)
Cool in the summer ( no AC, either)
Easy access to HVAC,electrical, plumbing.....no love for crawl spaces.