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I want to ensure that I understand the proper method for applying silicone caulk before I start my job. Please correct any of my statements below. (My source for these statements is my reading of the GE FAQ found at the GE site "CaulkYourHome - FAQ".
Thank you.
(1) A new application of silicone caulk does not adhere well to old, cured silicone caulk. The old caulk must first be removed.
(2) If the gap to be caulked if deeper than about 3/16 inch, backer rod or equivalent should be used to fill the area to be caulked.
(3) To remove previously cured silicone caulk from hard plastic (which in my case is plastic water piping) and from PVC, use rubbing alcohol and a soft cloth.
Do not use mineral spirits to remove the old caulk. Mineral spirits can be used on fiberglass surfaces but not on plastic.
(4) If the caulk is to be applied over hard plastic, after the old caulk has been properly removed, clean the surface with a solvent such as mineral spirits or lacquer thinner. Wipe the surface dry with a clean cloth or lint-less paper towels, and do not allow the solvent to air dry or evaporate without wiping.
Thank you.
(1) A new application of silicone caulk does not adhere well to old, cured silicone caulk. The old caulk must first be removed.
(2) If the gap to be caulked if deeper than about 3/16 inch, backer rod or equivalent should be used to fill the area to be caulked.
(3) To remove previously cured silicone caulk from hard plastic (which in my case is plastic water piping) and from PVC, use rubbing alcohol and a soft cloth.
Do not use mineral spirits to remove the old caulk. Mineral spirits can be used on fiberglass surfaces but not on plastic.
(4) If the caulk is to be applied over hard plastic, after the old caulk has been properly removed, clean the surface with a solvent such as mineral spirits or lacquer thinner. Wipe the surface dry with a clean cloth or lint-less paper towels, and do not allow the solvent to air dry or evaporate without wiping.
Little about a lot and a lot about a little.
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