pool sand filter for well pump

[21buck]

I just moved to the water well district. I had to drill a well and got h2s, iron, manganese , and other particulates. I would like to remove these particulates as the water is pumped from the well into a holding tank which in turn has another semi submersible pump feeding a pressure tank to the house. All sand filters have a maximum psi of 50. What we don't know is how the well pump pressures up the line to the storage tank. If it gets above the 50psi any there is a breakage problem coming. There are float cut off /on switches for both the well pump and the secondary pump. Ideally, the well pump could be directed to the sand filter thence to the storage tank where my apparatus for Sulphur removal runs and the rotten egg smell is completely removed. what if the well pump water clogs up the sand filter will the pressure rise above 50psi? or do I need to install a cut off/on switch before the sand filter. What is really needed is clean water before going into the house. I have a 1k gallon tank.
The well pump running as set will fill the storage tank in about an 1.5 hrs.or so. The pressure from the well pump is not known at this time. The tank needs cleaning soon so I want to have most of the necessary piping and parts on hand. and get it done in a days time. Any help and assistance is appreciated. thanks 21 buck.

[HayZee518]

The sand filter which is your primary filter will clog up with particulate rather quickly and the "delta" pressure will rise rapidly - 50 lbs or over and will need to be back flushed regularly. You set your primary cutoff pressure to about 45 psi to activate the back wash cycle. Then you can revert to filtering, normally. You'll need electro mechanical solenoid valves to do the re-routing for you or you'll need to do it manually each time. Between back flush and regular pumping you'll need a time delay circuit. I can try to make a diagram for you regarding plumbing and the control circuit if you wish.

[Speedbump]

A pool sand filter is way too large to be backwashed with a well pump, and is not the right thing for your needs. Once the water is sprayed into your cystern style tank, the air the water passes through will oxidize the h2s and the iron. The h2s gas will be let out of the water and the iron will now be trappable by a normal iron filter with a backwash only head. The only thing you might need now is a water softener.

[21buck]

Happy New Year, HayZee518
Since I am not an engineer of any sorts. I need help. The sand filter idea was to soften, clean the flow of water on a one time basis. Manually is not a problem backwashing. the sand filter has that capability. The electro mechanical solenoid valve application seems like a good idea. However, the 7 way manual valve is just that . I would like to see your idea to make it back wash. Initially I don't feel that it will get clogged up based on the amount of gunk in the bottom of the tank. So a back flush once a week or month would not be a burden. Just doing it timely might. As for the sulphur in the rotten egg smell. I have designed an aerator on a timer that just runs for an hour per day with not after smell of S. Ordinarily the well pump just pumping should not create any pressure. it is free flowing until the particulates start clogging up the system. Right. Sure I want it oversized . it should clean properly so that the storage water can be pumped into the system without problems. What about a popoff valve that would relieve the pressure on the filter but dump the excess water outside til it was backflushed. It would probably never be used. but just in case. I could pm you a sketch if that would help.
thanks for helping. 21 buck

[21buck]

HAPPY NEW YEAR SPEEDBUMP! I AM considering a 16" sand filter. Initially the sand filter would operate to fill the storage tank and there after the useage. The water going into the tank is not sprayed. The h2s is eliminated by an aeration system that I designed utilizing a timer, and air source for an hour. It is set to run an hour per day. It works great. You are correct about the iron which I feel will be taken out by the filter. Another issue is sodium 220ppm. I can not afford a reverse osmosis system. perhaps I'll figure a way to do that also with help. I anticipate back flushing at least two or three times the first week. Unless I am convinced of a better way. What is a normal iron filter? Thanks 21buck

[Speedbump]

Sand filters are designed for swimming pools with pumps that flow in excess of 60 gpm. This is what will backwash the sand filter. I don't know what pump you are going to backwash the filter with, but a normal domestic well pump will not have enough flow to clean the sand filter. That's why I recommended an irons filter with a tank about 9 to 10 inches in diameter. Most domestic pumps can clean a filter that size well. You should also be using an iron filter media, not just plain sand. If your method of aerating the water in the 1000 gallon tank gets the h2s, it will also oxidize the iron and keep you from needing to use potassium permangenate or chlorine. That's a plus. As for softening water, the only method that works is ion exchange. You can't simply filter calcium and magnesium. The hardness must be exchanged for either salt or potassium chloride.

[21buck]

what is the normal well pump pressure with a 1.5" pipe? If my 1000gal tank fills in hour it has to be more than 60 gpm., The pressure is not known to me. AT the rate that it is flowing I would think that it has sufficient gpm. to back wash. I have an open mind to this situation. I would be using Zeolite Green sand as a filter media.to assist in iron removal. I agree that the ion exchange to now is the only method that works . I have enough sodium in the water already and don't like potassium chloride in the water. 200+/- ppm sodium is more than I want. I never heard of a iron filter. Need some direction here.
Thanks, 21 buck
t

[Speedbump]

Pipe size doesn't matter that much, it's what the pump can produce. If you are filling a 1000 gallon tank in an hour your pump is producing around 17 gpm. That's not enough to backwash a tank with that diameter. Normal iron filters have tanks in the range of 9" by 48" or 10" by 54" etc. Iron filters use the greensand or MTM and do a good job and with the air your adding to your water, a chemical feeder wouldn't be necessary.