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Delta Shower Removal

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  • Delta Shower Removal

    I have a leaking single handle Delta shower faucet that needs to be replaced. The issue I am having is that once I removed the plastic round handle I cannot seem to loosen up the round knurled threaded piece from the wall connection to get at the cartridge. When I tried to use a channel lock all that is happening is that I am starting to bend the piping behind my shower wall. I am afraid, if I put too much pressure on this knurled threaded piece all I am going to do is snap something off inside the wall. This particular unit is the original unit and the house was built in 1991. Any advise or help at this point would be very helpful. I am not even sure I can even get a replacement cartridge. And yes, I do have well water.

  • #2
    They can be very problematic to take off at times, best option is going to be to spray a penetrating product and try to get to the threaded area. Many times we end up cutting a hole in the rear wall and replacing the entire unit. Are the supply lines copper, cpvc or PEX ?
    Little about a lot and a lot about a little.
    Every day is a learning day.

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    • #3
      Originally posted by pushkins View Post
      They can be very problematic to take off at times, best option is going to be to spray a penetrating product and try to get to the threaded area. Many times we end up cutting a hole in the rear wall and replacing the entire unit. Are the supply lines copper, cpvc or PEX ?
      They are copper and I am afraid I will have to do the same, cut through my tile to replace the entire unit. I could try and dremel off the knurled round fitting but then I would have difficulty trying to find a replacement.

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      • #4
        If all else fails in the removal BEFORE you cut through tile, look at the option of the wall behind the shower, many times the wall backs up to a bedroom or closet or where drywall exists, this can be cut out and the replacement done from the back then repair the drywall, MUCH easier to repair drywall then tile.
        Little about a lot and a lot about a little.
        Every day is a learning day.

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        • #5
          Originally posted by pushkins View Post
          If all else fails in the removal BEFORE you cut through tile, look at the option of the wall behind the shower, many times the wall backs up to a bedroom or closet or where drywall exists, this can be cut out and the replacement done from the back then repair the drywall, MUCH easier to repair drywall then tile.
          Unfortunately this wall butts up against the block masonry wall. I am wondering if the actual copper shower back plumping is the same as what is made today because, if that is the case I would just go out and buy the whole new assembly and then just have to install the diverter valve assembly once I dremel off the frozen knurled round knob.

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          • #6
            when you removed the valve handle and the valve stem is exposed, does the cutout in the chromed cap look like an inverted triangle with rounded corners? the cap is plastic and screws down onto the valve body, which is brass - approx a 1 7/8" diameter. The valve stem is diamond shaped?

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            • #7
              Originally posted by HayZee518 View Post
              when you removed the valve handle and the valve stem is exposed, does the cutout in the chromed cap look like an inverted triangle with rounded corners? the cap is plastic and screws down onto the valve body, which is brass - approx a 1 7/8" diameter. The valve stem is diamond shaped?
              Looks like I found what I need to rebuild the faucet. I found the rebuild kit at Home Depot. It is the one with the stem protruding out a stainless steel ball. I still can't seem to find the 1 1/8" diameter plastic cap that does not want to come off the valve body. I will still keep looking for this one piece before I go and cut off the other one.

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