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JOINING DISSIMILAR PIPE ILLUSTRATED

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  • towsongarage
    replied
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  • jr32560
    replied
    Originally posted by HayZee518 View Post
    give us a picture of it.
    will snap one tomorrow on the job maybe the stamping on the tubing will show up

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  • HayZee518
    replied
    tubing

    give us a picture of it.

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  • jr32560
    replied
    old steel tubing soldered

    haven't seen this stuff since I was a little youngun
    thought it was chromed copper-soldered together at joints "copper" no less
    but the main tubing is thin walled steel? I know magnet sticks to it
    could not get it to solder-any clues on the age or what I'm into here?
    old house~~~

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  • Redwood
    replied
    Originally posted by LazyPup View Post
    Nice drawing and close to being correct.
    The all rubber Fernco is not allowed above ground an inside under many codes a banded coupling such as a Fernco Proflex should be used.

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  • Redwood
    replied
    Originally posted by kactuskid View Post
    Really nice drawings LazyPup. I have a guestion, is it ok to use a brass fitting to connect galvinized piping to copper instead of a dieletric union? I see this alot and figured it to be a good substitute to ensure against electrolisis.
    Brass is acceptable to join copper to galvanized. A nipple of at least 6" in length should be used.

    Brass is much closer to Galv. on the galvanic scale than copper is and makes a good transition material.

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  • HayZee518
    replied
    drawings etc. are submitted by mostly the moderators of that specific section. lazypup used to be the moderator of the plumbing section as I am of the electrical section. If it helps to straighten out a situation then we will add a drawing or two.
    Reason for the bowl level not to be consistent is how soon the flapper snaps shut when the tank is flushed. sometimes it closes later or sooner and the time the tank fills as well as the bowl fill tube is later or shorter.

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  • HayZee518
    replied
    drawings etc. are submitted by mostly the moderators of that specific section. lazypup used to be the moderator of the plumbing section as I am of the electrical section. If it helps to straighten out a situation then we will add a drawing or two.
    Reason for the bowl level not to be consistent is how soon the flapper snaps shut when the tank is flushed. sometimes it closes later or sooner and the time the tank fills as well as the bowl fill tube is later or shorter.

    Leave a comment:


  • Plumber09
    replied
    Drawings

    Thank you for responding back to me.It is greatly appriciated.
    Last edited by Plumber09; 02-09-2009, 11:20 AM.

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  • HayZee518
    replied
    there is a fitting called a DESANKO fitting but you mention that at a home depot people are gonna look at you funny. all it is - is a beefed up plastic hub that fits into a cast iron hub and can be oakumed and leaded in place without melting. instead of using hot lead use the newer two part epoxies.

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  • jackiensteve
    replied
    Thanks for the info! I have a question that no one in any of the big boxes can answer. We jackhammered the basement floor to remove an old cast iron bowl drain and to install a shower. The existing pipe into the floor drain is 2.5 inch cast iron. We need 2" pipe for the shower. WE have searched high and low for a male threaded reducer and can't find anything 2.5". whatever we use must also be able to have concrete poured on top of it. Would the illustration on joining cast iron and pvc work in lieu of not being able to find ANY 2.5" threaded pipes?

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  • jackmcmanus21
    replied
    very useful drawings, thank you!

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  • HayZee518
    replied
    just for ha-ha's take a look at the periodic table of elements from chemistry class back from high school. one side is active gasses other side is active metals. here you'll find Cu=copper, Zn=zinc, Fe=iron, Pb=lead, Tin=Sn. Bronze and brass are alloys of two metals. Brass is copper and tin, bronze is copper and nickel. so, if you mix any of the active metals you can create corrosion between the joints unless you use an alloy.

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  • JimV
    replied
    Galvanized to Bronze Valve

    It seems to be pretty standard to use bronze valves with threaded galvanized pipe. Why doesn't that cause problems, since they are dissimilar? Also, I have been told that having copper and galvanized in direct contact will not only cause the galvanized to corrode at the point of contact, but will also cause problems downstream. Any thoughts?

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  • Sauna
    replied
    Very useful indeed. Thanks for the drawings.

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