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  • Need advise and help on shower problem

    I purchased a 1970's house about 8 months ago. Today I started to remove the wallpaper in a downstairs bathroom and discovered a mold problem behind the shower stall. After reading all the government doccuments, I feel that I can clean up the mold myself.

    I opened up the wall to discover that the shower tiles are mounted directly to drywall, so it looks like the shower will have to be replaced. Does this sound right?

    Also, because of the layout of the bathroom, if I do replace the stall, I could potentially put in a full size bath tub. Are there any concerns with making this change?

    Thank you in advance for your help,

    Shelli


  • #2
    Is the drywall to which the tiles are attached water damaged or moldy? If not, you can probably keep the shower stall. The 'drywall' to which the tiles are attached should ideally be at least 'greenboard' (water resistant) or better still, 'cementboard' (waterproof). If the damage is only partial, you could replace just the wallboard that is moldy or water damaged.

    I had to replace some of the drywall behind the tiles in my shower/tub when we moved into our house because the grout between a few tiles had broken and allowed water in behind the ceramic tiles. The drywall behind the tiles (it was generic type gypsum wallboard, not water resistant) was water damaged, moldy and had to be replaced. I removed only the drywall that was damaged and replaced it with a water resistant drywall (a bit better than greenboard). I then glued new tile to those sections and applied new grout.

    quote:Originally posted by LLLady

    I purchased a 1970's house about 8 months ago. Today I started to remove the wallpaper in a downstairs bathroom and discovered a mold problem behind the shower stall. After reading all the government doccuments, I feel that I can clean up the mold myself.

    I opened up the wall to discover that the shower tiles are mounted directly to drywall, so it looks like the shower will have to be replaced. Does this sound right?

    Also, because of the layout of the bathroom, if I do replace the stall, I could potentially put in a full size bath tub. Are there any concerns with making this change?

    Thank you in advance for your help,

    Shelli

    Comment


    • #3
      Drywall and shower stalls do not mix and green drywall isn't any better for a shower than the regular stuff. You'll need to replace the drywall with a cement board product. I like Hardibacker the best, it's sold at Home Depot. Here's a link that'll show you the product.


      The best way to do it is to remove all the old stuff, hang the hardiboard on the studs, tape all the seams with an alkalyd free mesh tape that's for cement board. Then paint the hardiboard with a product called Red Guard. This is also sold at Home Depot and will totally waterproof the board and prevent moisture from ever reaching your stud wall.

      Then your new tile needs to be installed using thin set mortar, and then grouted. The John Bridge website is staffed with tile pros that can help you in this project. Here's a link to their site.


      Of course you can forego most of the above if you decide to install a premade shower stall instead.

      If you want to install a tub instead then you need to make sure that the drain and water lines are moved to the appropriate positions to accomidate the tub and that the floor is strong enough to support it.. Lazy Pup is the plumbing pro here and when he gets back I'm sure he'll be able to give you more advice so hang in there for him to reply.

      Comment


      • #4
        I apologize for recommending greenboard. It definitely is not appropriate for walls in continual contact with water. What I had used (I had forgotten the name) was DensShield - it has gypsum in it like wallboard but it has glass mat facings and a gray acrylic coating that blocks moisture. You apply tile to the gray side. Along with cementboard, it is recommended for use as a tile backer. DensShield is lighter than cementboard and cuts more or less like regular wallboard, so it may be easier to handle. Here's a link ..

        Comment


        • #5
          No problem, I know of Denshield and it's a good product. Works about as good as a cement board product. Thanks for the clarification and welcome to the forum.

          Comment

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