Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

slow toilet flush

Collapse

Forum Top GA Ad Widget

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • #16
    To find objects up in the trap of a toilet can be a difficult sometimes. Even toile taugers sometimes auger their way around the object.

    I remove the toilet and take it outside or in the bathtub, and set the toilet up on blocks, then fill the tank and flush it and see. I have also put a golf ball in the bowl to see if it comes out the bottom. I have had several where it doesn't come out and have found things like toothrbrushes hidden up in the trap that you could not see from the top or the bottom. Then I repeatedly auger and have a 5 gallon pail of water that I keep pouring down the toilet bowl to create a violent turbulance. Besides a golf ball, you could wad up 2 or 3 wet, turd size toilet papers you scrunch up and toss in the bowl. If these make it out the bottom, you have no ovbstruction.

    Then you'll know if your problem is downstream.

    Also, be sure to check and make sure your toilet bowl is not limed up. carefully examine that 1 inch size hole at the bottom of the toilet bowl, if you have one, and also up under the rim with a mechanics mirror.

    Comment


    • #17
      slow toilet flush

      If you've noticed a reduced flushing power of your toilet over time, I have a simple recommendation for you, something for you to check. The holes on the underside of the toilet bowl often become clogged with deposits. So what you want to use is a little handheld mirror, even a little dental mirror- although I would suggest that after you use it for this, that becomes its permanent use. Once you detect a hole that has maybe some buildup that's preventing it from flowing properly, just cut a piece of wire coat hanger and run it up in there and clear out and obstructions that you might find. And do this all around the edge, and I think you'll see an improvement.
      Slow filling toilet

      Comment


      • #18
        Somewhat similiar problem

        In my house, I have two bathrooms. One in the master BR and the other out in the hall. The house is laid out such that the bathrooms are "back to back", so to speak. I assume that because of this, they both "tee" into the same main waste line.

        The problem is that, while the hallway bathroom works fine-the master BR bathroom is sluggish.

        Because they both use the same main line and one works fine, the problem is not there, but in the second WC itself? I've tried snaking that WC ( I sometimes feel some resistance but I attributed that to the snake working it's way around the curves ), rapidly flushing with a 5 gal. pail, turning off the water supply, flushing,sponging out the remaining water and snaking again. Still sluggish.

        I'm thinking that the only thing left to do is actually pull the bowl, see if I can find any type of blockage underneath and/or replace it.

        Am I right?

        P.S. I've done the dental mirror routine
        Dan

        Comment


        • #19
          I agree with Lazypup in every way on this problem, except for one item;
          John Crapper did not invent the toilet, it was THOMAS CRAPPER.


          let's get all the facts straight, lazy pup(lol.)

          Comment


          • #20
            I can't believe this just happened to me. I got behind on my obligations and put this toilet augoring thing off until I got some other stuff done.

            Friday I went over the check list of what I needed from Home Depot, ie wax ring etc...

            For the heck of it I double flushed the toilet. This means I flushed it, allowed tank to fill then flushed it again. It did not over flow. Then I kept flushing it and it kept flushing alright.

            What just happened here. How could my toilet go for weeks with being able to flush it once or it over flowed to this?

            I am assuming something was in the sewer? I don't know rather I should open it up anyway or just call it a day and say I lucked out?

            Comment


            • #21
              Replacing toilet

              Regardless of your needs, installing a new toilet or replacing one that has seen better days is relatively easy. There are just a few steps and it can all be completed in one day.


              Selecting a new toilet



              In most states across the Untied States, new toilets must allow for only one and a half gallons of water to flush at one time. This not only saves the environment with every flush, it also saves you each month with your water bill. You will find that most community building codes also require these new toilets. It is always best to check with your local community before installing the new toilet. The only thing left is to choose a style or color that best suits your family, needs and interior design scheme of your bathroom.


              Getting started


              If you are installing a new toilet in a new location where one did not exist before you can skip this part. Replacing an old toilet has only a couple of extra steps from installing a toilet in a new location.


              Before you try to remove the old toilet, you need to be sure the water has been shut off. Behind the toilet (and sometimes hidden in the base cabinet adjacent to the toilet) is the water shut off valve. If you remember the old phrase, “Lefty Lucy – Righty Tighty”, you will be able to know which way to turn the valve to cut off the water supply. Turn to the right to close the valve. You will need to be sure the water is turned off and you will need to empty the tank, so flush the toilet twice. This helps to ensure you got most of the water out. There will be a bit of remaining water in the tank so have towels or news paper on the floor to help mop up the water when the tank is removed.


              Removing the old tank


              Follow the water supply cut off valve to the tank of the toilet. Take an adjustable wrench and clamp it onto the outside supply tubing on the coupling nut. With a pair of rib joint pliers, inside the tank, grab the other nut and turn left to loosen. You may need to hold the outside nut and adjustable wrench with your other hand to stabilize.


              Once you have the water supply disconnected, it is time to remove the tank. With the same technique you just used to remove the supply line, you need to hold the mounting bolt nut under the tank, while inside the tank you unscrew the mounting bolt from the main body of the toilet. This will release the tank. Simply set the tank on the floor with some form of cushion to protect your flooring. Newspaper or old towels will do just fine.


              Next you will need to remove the floor bolts that hold the main toilet body to the floor. Once you have these off, it is time to pull the toilet off the floor. The toilet is attached not only by the floor bolts, but also by adhesive. You will need to rock the toilet back and forth while leaning it forward to pry it loose.


              Once the old toilet has been removed stuff a rag into the exposed pipe. This helps keep the sewer gasses from entering the room and keeps objects from falling into it. You can use a paint scraper or any flat tool to scrape the old adhesive remains from the floor and pipe gasket. Try to clean as well as possible as this will help with better adhesion for the new toilet.


              Installing a new toilet


              If you are installing a new fixture where there was no fixture before, supply line pipes will need to be installed. You will need to call a professional plumber to do this for you as it is very involved and dangerous. Once you have the pipes installed, installing the new fixture is a snap!


              Lay some newspaper or old towels on the floor. Flip the new fixture over and lay down on the paper or towel to protect your flooring and to expose the underside. The underside of the toilet will have a hole, called a horn. This is where the water leaves the toilet to the sewer. You need to place a new wax gasket on this horn. Most new toilets come with this wax gasket.


              Flip the bowl back over and place the horn of the toilet into the floor pipe. Rocking it back and forth will help insure of a good fit. Once you have the toilet bowl in place, you will need to level it while attaching the floor bolts at the same time. To do this, place the bolts through the holes into the floor loosely. With a level on top of the bowl, slowly tighten the floor bolts. You want the bowl to be tight to the floor, but not too tight as to crack the porcelain of the bowl. If you are unable to level the bowl and have the floor bolts tight at the same time, you may need small plastic shims to level the bow.


              Attaching the tank



              Some new toilets are one piece, meaning the tank and the bowl are not separated into two parts. However traditionally toilets do have a separate tank. Attaching the tank is even easier than the bowl.


              Your new toilet will come with a flush valve, this is the mechanical contraption that fits inside your tank that attaches to the handle outside of the tank, and flushes the water. Assemble this according to the manufacturer instructions and attach inside your tank before installing the tank.


              Your tank should come with a mounting cushion. This is a rubber piece that is laid under the tank to protect the tank from rubbing against the bowl, subsequently cracking either one. Lay the tank onto the bowl, being careful to position the two bolt holes over the matching holes underneath. Insert the mounting bolts and tighten. There may be gaps where your mounting bolts are, so you will need to fill any gaps with plumber’s putty, available at any hardware store.


              The only thing left is to hook up the water supply. Take the water supply line and screw to the bottom of the tank. Turn the water supply valve back on and flush! Congratulations! You have just installed your first toilet!

              For more great info:
              essortment.com/in/HowTo.General/index
              Last edited by luvr29; 02-06-2007, 03:14 PM.

              Comment


              • #22
                To Wak and LazyPup,

                The other obvious solution is to hire a competent plumber to fix the problem. If that is me, I do not have the desire to remove the toilet, run a snake down the drain and reinstall the toilet. Mind you, I have replaced a toilet bowl by myself. Its aggravating to your back to say the least. I also do not have a great desire to work where excrement passed through. This is not to demean a professional plumber, this is just me.

                With that, my question is how long and how much will this kind of a job take? That is assuming that one have to do all of the above (remove toilet, clear drain, reinstall toilet). Would it be fair to say 3 hours, around $300 labor?
                Last edited by leodlion; 11-30-2006, 09:47 AM.

                Comment


                • #23
                  Originally posted by Hube View Post
                  I agree with Lazypup in every way on this problem, except for one item;
                  John Crapper did not invent the toilet, it was THOMAS CRAPPER.


                  let's get all the facts straight, lazy pup(lol.)
                  Scholars have studied this guy Thomas Crapper. Although such a person existed in England, was a plumber and did invent several things related to plumbing, he never invented the flushing toilet!

                  An excerpt from http://www.theplumber.com/crapper.html,

                  "The most famous product attributed to Thomas Crapper wasn't invented by him at all. The "Silent Valveless Water Waste Preventer" (No. 814) was a symphonic discharge system that allowed a toilet to flush effectively when the cistern was only half full. British Patent 4990 for 1898 was issued to a Mr. Albert Giblin for this product."

                  Somebody said it really was Alexander Dumper who invented it but I think this is another myth

                  Comment


                  • #24
                    How about checking for a partly plgged roof VENT stack?

                    Comment

                    Working...
                    X
                    =