Shower stall, drain in concrete

[DKAudio]

I am installing a shower stall in my basement. I broke up my foundation and have to move the existing drain.

First, am I supposed to fill the whole thing with concrete once the drain is in the proper location?

I see they have two types of drain assemblies at HD. One has a black rubber gasket that just friction fits over the drain pipe, the other is a PVC glue type. Which one should I use taking into account that this is being installed on my concrete foundation?

Thanks

Dan

[pushkins]

The gasket drain version I find easier as you can cut the pipe at the correct height , glue it into the P trap, then sit the pan over it and then insert and tighten the gasket down.
The glue type you need to have everything cut to the lengths then apply the glue to the last joint and then sit in the pan and turn it a little to get a good seal, sometimes trying to wiggle/turn a pan in a tight fit area is difficult.
I know plumbers that have preferences either way.

I am not sure if there is a code that says you have to or don't have to concrete back over the new drain location, I've seen many remodels that haven't had any concrete.

I hope when you say you "broke up" your foundation that you actually mean your floor ?

[DKAudio]

Yes, my floor.

Hmm, so maybe I can just fill the whole back with sand? I thought it needed to be totally secured to prevent movement.

I got the shower stall from my father in law. He did not get the drain sealed properly to it was leaking from underneath. He tore it all out and I got the unit, it is a $600 neo-angle, looks nice.

Thanks

[pushkins]

don't leave the pipe just hanging in the hole, make sure you backfill with something (like you mentioned sand) . I should have made that clearer, sorry.

[DKAudio]

BTW:
I thought the concrete floor in basements was the house foundation? Or is the foundation the cynder block walls? People always say "pouring the foundation" which is the concrete floor in the basement of a house.

[pushkins]

Footings are the concrete filled trenches (load bearing), foundations are the cinder block or brick or poured walls that transfer the loads from above to the footings.

Often you hear it refered to as "pouring the foundations" as it is just part of the overall process of getting the house "out of the ground". Technically though the foundations are just that...."the foundations" of the building, all that is structurally holding the building up.

Monolithic slabs are a little different as the slab and footer ae all poured as one the slab then is part of the foundation.

[DKAudio]

Got ya, so the floor I broke up is just a "slab"

Next question...
This thing is made out of fiberglass. Should I lay a bed of concrete down before I set the base of the stall? Most directions say to use a construction adhesive but this is going over concrete. I was once told this tip by a handyman. Laying a bed of concrete down will avoid any shifting, creaking, cracking of the fiberglass.

Stupid question but I don't need any rebar or anything, just a thin bed, right?

Thanks

[pushkins]

Don't use construction adhesive, 99.99999% of the time it will eventually (sometimes days) bleed through the fiberglass and leave a very visible stain that is not removable.

Like you mentioned lay a bed of mortar and when you install the base apply pressure and wiggle it in a little, also good to lay on the base something heavier until it dries, I often use a box of tiles....something like that. It doesn't need to be a thick base use about as much as you would to lay floor tile (a 1/4" notched trowel worth) unless you are also using it to help level out the base then use it thicker where needed naturally.

[DKAudio]

Floor is pretty level already, not too worried about that. Should I use a notched trowel or a thin bed? The bottom of the base has fiberglass "fins" coming down at various lengths and angles.

Thanks

[pushkins]

A bed will do just fine