Replacing Toilet flange

[SlowCoder]

The flange is broken. Whoever originally "fixed" the toilet used a long masonry bolt to hold the toilet down into the concrete. I want to replace the flange, but it looks like the flange is somewhat buried into the concrete.

What are the issues relating to replacing the flange? I've been told I can try chiseling it out, but that it might be glued to the sewer pipe. I don't want to damage the pipe. I was also shown an anchor flange repair kit that is supposed to be screwed into the flange, but the directions say I'm supposed to install it under the flange, which I can't remove in one piece, I don't think.

[pushkins]

Almost certainly the toilet flange will be glued to the PVC pipe so be VERY careful in dealing with removal of the existing flange.
There are a couple of options I can think of immediately if your existing flange is broken.
You can buy a flange the has a rubber boot on the insert end, you simply push the flange into the waste pipe and turn it as you go to seat it down.
Another option if the flange isn't completely torn apart is to get the new extender flange and drill new holes into the concrete and bolt down the new flange over the old one, but this will depend on your exact problem and height restrictions.
You can get a brass flange ring that adds very little height and covers over the existing flange, again you will need to add new screws into the concrete.

[Psycho0124]

Chipping out a flange can be a little risky but nine times out of ten, you will manage to do it with minimal or no damage to the PVC pipe it's secured in (as long as you take your time).

1. Start by taking as much of the top portion of the flange off as you can, being careful to avoid damaging the bottom portion (inside cuff?) or the PVC pipe (if yours is in concrete, it should be relatively safe from breaking). This step is critical as it will allow the cuff to flex in on itself later when we try and get it out. Putting notches in the top and prying pieces off with pliers usually works fine for a brittle old PVC flange.

2. Now take your saber-saw or saws-all and notch about a 1/2-inch wedge-shaped section through about 95% of the flange cuff (going into the PVC pipe may cause a leak in the future).

3. Now carefully tap down a very thin chisel (stiff thin putty knife, or even a butter knife will work) between the wedge you cut and the PVC pipe. The wedge should break at your notches and pop out (you stuck a rag down below to block sewer gasses right?) and now you can start working your way around the rest of the flange, notching as needed. The rest of the flange will usually come out in a big C shape.

From there, the flange with the rubber boot would work fine (I usually gob some Teflon thread compound on all surfaces to make the turning easier and insure a good seal). If you want to put in a standard flange, just be sure to use some sand-paper to get the inner surface fairly smooth for gluing.

I worked for a plumbing company several years ago and have done about 10 of these with this method. The age of the flange and condition of the glue seem to be the most important factors for easy removal. If it's more than a few years old, it should come out easily.

[SlowCoder]

Psycho0124,

Excellent instructions! I may give that a shot.