Plumbing Venting

[drgto]

Thanks for your reply and help again. Below are the answers to your questions and some new questions of my own.

Do you have an attic where you could make vent attachments? No. However, I was looking this evening and I may be able to tap into the vent stack just above the 2nd floor bath which would make it a dry vent vs wet. I took some exterior sheathing down that is now within a ceiling space of the new addition I am building and can see about 3'-0” of 4" cast though it does have 2x4's on each side and may be hard to tap into...but one side is accessible. If I was able, where would I connect the lower end?

The laundry line should be 2" - I'll note that change.

How far is it from the lave sink to the shower? If I supply the drain for the lave sink threw the floor it is in the next joist bay (15" away) from the shower and then 3'-0" upstream. The isometric drawing has the drain coming in from behind since that was how I thought would be the best venting for the lave sink.

Any suggestions on venting the toilets? The original toilet (red line) which is 6'-0" away from the soil stack works great even with a grandfather venting system in place.

I've also attached a revised (V2) Isometric drawing showing a possible toilet vent.

Thanks
Dan

[Redwood]

Do you have an attic where you could make vent attachments?
You really do need some venting
The laundry line should be 2"
the lave sink may be able to tie into the shower drain providing a wet vent for the shower.
How far is it from the lave sink to the shower?

BTW excellent job on the drawing!
A super easy to read diagram now...

[drgto]

Isometric Drawing

Hi Redwood,

Thanks for taking the time to look at my original drawings. I did as you said (I hope) and drew an isometric drawing (attached) of my flat drawings...it took me all day and I hope it paints a better visual picture of what I am trying to do. This is my first so please forgive how it looks. I did have a problem keeping the size small, so to view all of my notes you may have to view at 300 percent.

I do have a plumbing permit for the kitchen sink but then realized that the new bath and washer drain I wish to install in the future should be designed as well so the kitchen drain will not have to be adjusted in the future. Just thought it was a good idea to plan ahead and install the necessary 't's and cap for future use.

Also, please note, that the 'red' lines are existing 4" cast that are enclosed in the walls and the only part exposed is in the basement where the one existing toilet is in place (toilet line in red). So to try to use the existing cast that goes to the roof as a vent would be a bear since many finished walls would have to be removed just to find a place to attach.

Thanks
Dan

[Redwood]

On the kitchen sink option 1 is okay, option 2 would have a flat vent which is subjected to getting clogged.

Your 2 drawing method is difficult to follow if you could draw it as an "Isometric Drawing" style it would be much easier to follow. See the picture below and note how 3d is depicted in 2d. You don't have to get as crazy labeling everything but some idea if pipe size length and what fixtures are what is good as well as the difference in usage between a tee and a wye & 45 or, combo is shown in the drawing. Venting can be shown with a dotted line and drain lines with a solid line. It's ok if you don't but actually will be easier on both of us...

An Iso would actually be required by the building department if you were pulling a permit on this job which you should be doing.



Once we get over to the bathroom its got some problems with venting and possibly fitting usage.

Venting is needed on all fixtures to protect the trap seal. A vent connection should be made before any downward turn or, tying into a line that has waste flowing in it, and within the correct developed length for the size pipe you are using.

A sani-tee is used to transition from horizontal to vertical because a wye and 45 el or, a combo which offers direction would choke off the vent, no direction is needed coming in vertical you have gravity for that. On the horizontal runs tying in should be done with a wye and 45 el or, combo because you need the direction guidance that those fittings offer, if you use a sani-tee waste would hit the tee and flow in both directions initially then the side that is pitched upward would drain back possibly depositing a pile of debris which could cause clogging.

[drgto]

Hi All,

I am looking for some help with the design of the plumbing venting for additional drains I plan to add. Below are two urls that will show the top and wall view of my current design. However, someone told me I need to vent the two toilets since they are so close together. (one on left is old work and one on right is proposed work) Also, I am concerned with the shower vent and of course all vents in my design.

I hope my drawings make sense so someone can help. If not, please let me know and I will try my best to paint a clearer image of the plumbing plan.

In case attached images do not show, please find url's to the images stored at photobucket.com below:
Top View URL: i811.photobucket.com/albums/zz39/drgto/TopViewa.jpg

Vall View URL: i811.photobucket.com/albums/zz39/drgto/Detail-Wall-Viewsa.jpg

Thanks
Dan