Water Hammer

[KSever]

Been dealing with this probelm since we bought this house two years ago.

To start with I noticed my new faucets were starting to leak out the handles about a month after I installed them not to mention I had changed the ballcock twice on the same toilet due to it not shutting off completely. Decided out of the blue to put my pressure gauge on the washing machine outlet and it registered 116psi, couldn't believe it so I tried it on the hose bibs and the barn hose bib and the same thing 116psi. I installed a pressure reducing valve about 2 feet in from the main gate valve where it comes in the hose to bring it down to 65-70 and now the valves are better and don't leak.

Now starts my next problem not just after installing the reducing valve but this has happened all the time. When you shut off any faucet I get a slight water bang, but when the water softener cycles and stops water flow it sounds as though you hit a big hammer on the foundation wall. I do have a water hammer reducer just after the water pressure regulator and just before the water softener is what is confusing me. It's as though the water hammer device is not working at all. Any ideas what to do next? Do I need a check valve between the water pressure regulator and the water hammer device?

Here's how my water feed is setup.....3/4" main water valve, from the main valve there is two feet of 3/4" copper pipe then the 3/4" water pressure regulator then there is 6"-8" of 3/4" copper pipe to a T where the 3/4" water hammer device is located from this T it runs approx. 18" to the water softener.

[HayZee518]

the water hammer device is a shock absorber device. the water inlet to the softener may have quick shutting [closing] solenoids which contribute to the hammer. there should be some air entrapped in the device for a cushion. maybe you can get solenoids that close gradually instead of bam! closed!

[Redwood]

The water hammer arrestor needs to be installed where the fast closing valve is located...

Kinda like a cart rolling down the mountain...
Its kind of easy to stop at the top before it gets rolling....

But at the bottom of the mountain where it's moving right along there is a lot of energy that needs absorbing to stop the cart....

Your hammer arrestor is presently at the top of the mountain and it needs to be at the bottom....

Follow the logic there?

[KSever]

The water hammer arrestor needs to be installed where the fast closing valve is located...

Kinda like a cart rolling down the mountain...
Its kind of easy to stop at the top before it gets rolling....

But at the bottom of the mountain where it's moving right along there is a lot of energy that needs absorbing to stop the cart....

Your hammer arrestor is presently at the top of the mountain and it needs to be at the bottom....

Follow the logic there?

So, If I read you right my arrester should be right at the softener before the elbow that comes down to the regulator?

[Redwood]

I would replace the elbow with a tee and have the arrestor come off the top of the tee.

I would also secure all the pipes in the area.

It is possible that the arrestor isn't large enough also.

[Speedbump]

I recommend a small bladder tank now that you have the pressure under control. That small stub of copper may not be enough.

Redwood... have you ever seen those stubs get water logged or does city water have more oxygen than well water so that it doesn't absorb the air from the device?

[KSever]

I recommend a small bladder tank now that you have the pressure under control. That small stub of copper may not be enough.

Redwood... have you ever seen those stubs get water logged or does city water have more oxygen than well water so that it doesn't absorb the air from the device?

Not following you Speedbump, that copper stub is a 3/4" Hydra-Rester. Thought it was going to be enough as I had the same one installed in my house in WI that was double the size house. Been thinking of changing to a 1" Zurn shoktrol that's made to handle more fixtures.

Here's what's on there now as a hydra-rester; model 653-B on this list in the link
Sioux Chief

[Speedbump]

Not following you Speedbump, that copper stub is a 3/4" Hydra-Rester.

I'm not a plumber, so I'm not familiar with Hydra Rester. It looks like a simple piece of pipe with a cap on top. Maybe they have some parts inside that makes it work, since they claim they can be installed in any position.

A small bladder tank might take more shock out than that device. They look like this: Bladder Tanks - Cycle Stop Valves - PumpsAndTanks.com Scroll down and look for the JR-6.

[Redwood]

I recommend a small bladder tank now that you have the pressure under control. That small stub of copper may not be enough.

Redwood... have you ever seen those stubs get water logged or does city water have more oxygen than well water so that it doesn't absorb the air from the device?

Those arrestors have a piston which prevents the air charge from being absorbed.

I agree the small bladder tank would probably provide a lot more hammer protection from the heavy flow during the regeneration.