Drywall for Basement Preparation

[JRH]

I am in the process of finishing a basement in a home that was built in 2006 and finished in 2007. I am doing the basement myself and have been noticing when doing the electrical work that the ceiling joist are not level on the bottom side or the basement ceiling. If you pull a chalk line 40-50 feet along the bottom of the joist they can vary as much as 0 to 1/2 inch. What does a person do to get these leveled up to hang drywall? I have already hung 30 cans for lighting in this basement. These are rough in only. I know I should have checked this earlier.
Any suggestions beside suspended ceiling which would mean removal and relocate all cans?
Any suggestions appreciated.
jrh

[pushkins]

Option 1. Hang all the drywall on existing joists, then tape and mud out the differences.

Is a viable option if you want a slick finish ceiling, it will take some extra mudding work, but will save you a ton of time.



Option 2. Hang all the drywall on existing joists and finish the ceiling with a knockdown finish. (this helps hide any issues like you have)

Is a viable option if your not totally confident with mudding and you are happy hiding the differences with a textured finish.


Option 3. Fur out the joists to get them all level. (your in place can lights will still work without being removed as the baffles springs allow flexibility in finished thickness).

Is a viable option if your a perfectionist and have plenty of time to fur out the joists, I wouldn't recommend this for most people as it can be very time consuming and frustrating.


If it were me I'd be picking option 1 especially if you have a set of stairs coming down into the basement that allows you to look across the ceiling as you walk down.

[JRH]

Thanks for the reply. I have thought about this for several days and your option 1 is probably the best but my spouse wants the slick ceiling and with the long basement of 65 feet and the stair way at almost the beginning it will be very hard to hide the waves in the drywall with mud and it will take a truck load of mud.

I have thought about the furring out option but this is a problem because you lose the benefit of the top board on the stud wall that you need to nail the drywall to. I can't easily add a board below that one because I have the wall sprayed with foam insulation and there is no room left for another board.

If I were to fur out what size board would I have to use that would not follow the joist variations? I was thinking along the line of a 2x2 but you might get by using a 1x2.

Maybe best to just go the suspended route.

Let me know what you think.
jrh

[HayZee518]

ceiling joists

If you pull a line width-wise from one corner to the other corner, then length-wise from a corner to the opposite corner you'll see where the joist curves upward.
It is common in the trades to install a joist, cup side up for a floor. Now you want to finish the bottom side of this up cupped framing member.
I would use furring wood of 1X2 dimension. This works out to be approximately 5/8 inch thick by 2 inches wide. Put one strip across the width at one end and another across the width at the opposite end. Then fasten a string from one surface to the other surface and you'll see where you need to shim out from the joist surface between the joist and the back of the furring strip. Use screws to fasten the furring strips.
True you'll lose some fastening surface at the top plate of the 2X4 but I'm sure you can cut out some spray foam to fit a 1X2 near the top. Any voids you see, use a minimum expanding foam to "doctor up" the voids.

[pushkins]

Noooooo don't do the suspended ceiling, you'll be sorry down the track.

It's 65' long (that's a long basement) how wide is it ?